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parts required to bob a deuce.

rossM4

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ok so i did some digging and could not find what i was looking for. What parts are required to bob a deuce? If you want the 53" tires do any of the parts/installation change? If I have overlooked any threads on this subject I apologize in advance.
 

Jimma

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Hartwell, GA
There are a lot of post on the subject. There are also at least two ways to do it. Using deuce leaf springs or the springs from the trailer. If all you have is the trailer you can use the springs from the trailer. You will need a set of u bolts, some replacement bolts for the remounting and relocating things, a lengthened drive shaft. Most people lengthen it by about 5 inches. Also you will need some blocks or fabricate something to use as frame blocks if using the trailer springs. Search on here and you will find some very specific answers. You can also contact blythewoodjoe in SC. He has bobbed a bunch of trucks and is doing a 5 ton currently. He helped bob my truck and has the process down to a science.
 

rossM4

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Ok will do thank you for the info and not bashin me for not findin the info i wanted right away. all the help is much appreciated.:)
 

Seth_O

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Sac CA
Lots of posts on this, but I did my bob as inexpensively as I safely could. I used the following:

1) the M105 trailer (bed, shocks and suspension)
2) about 2' of 1/4" square tubing (two different sizes - one for shock mounts and the other for lift blocks for the rear axle)
3) I lengthened my d-shaft by 5"
4) New copper ferrule ends for the air lines for brakes and the emergency air
5) I went through some oxy/acetylene gas, a couple of cutting disc's and a few rattle cans of camo green paint.
6) I also used a handful of tools and the help of a buddy.
 
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rossM4

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I have a pretty good idea how the process works but can you just move the rear axle to the mid axle position and not have to do any drive shaft work??
 

rossM4

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boonville IN
now i know that there are threads about lifting deuces but i see you (gimpyrobb) posting on here a lot and you seem like you have a lot of knowledge to bring to the table. In your opinion what is the safest way to lift a bobbed deuce? Can you just put lift blocks under the springs like a pickup truck or should you have springs made? emphasis on safety not cost because i know custom spring packs are not cheap for a 3/4 ton ford and a deuce spring pack has a lot more meat there.
 

oddshot

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Location
Jasper, Georgia
What parts are required to bob a deuce?
There's about 2 BASIC ways of doing it.

1. Buy the front springs and perches from a Deuce, mount the rear axle where you want it, and shorten the existing bed to fit. This does present some problems in getting a tarp to fit, if desired.

2. Buy an M 105 trailer (I got a pretty good one from GL for $150 with bows, tarp and 2 new tires), 4 U-bolts for the rear axle (about $100), get a drive shaft lengthened (about $100). The holes in the frame of the trailer give you a real good pattern for the holes you'll need to drill into the Deuce's frame. Combining the springs from the trailer and the Deuce will give you the correct ride height and a pretty good spring rate without needing real big blocks.

You'll need pretty much the same tools to do either job. This job goes a LOT easier if you have a torch. I did all the lifting with a harbor freight engine hoist.

I found number 2 to be the easiest and cheapest route. Total time from start to finish (including flipping the rear hubs) was about 5 days +/-. I was working with no help and taking my time.

The only part of the job that I REALLY worked hard at and sweated over was getting all the measurements correct. The hardest physical work was flipping the hubs by myself, but then I'm 60 years old. Next time I would build a type of jack or cart to help lift the hubs.


If I were to do another one ... I would do it exactly the same way ... and now because I got a little practice ... I think I could knock about a day off the build.


Check some of my threads for an overview of the job I did.

If you have experience as a mechanic or even if you are a good carpenter ... this ain't a tough job.

good luck with your build ... don't hesitate to ask questions if you run into a rough patch.

oddshot
 

rossM4

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boonville IN
thank you oddshot. when cutting the frame how much do you cut off??? is there a standard length or just fly by the seat of your pants? I am a machinist by trade and I read a thread about the frame on a deuce being tempered steel, if I was to cut the frame with a torch that would take the temper out of that part of the frame. have you experienced any problems with cracking or frame failure because of this?
 

gimpyrobb

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Send a PM to hdmax. He is fitting 1600s to his deuce right now. I know he got a lift kit from another member here, not sure who it was though. Most people I have spoke to, said they wouldn't do 1600s again. I think you'd be better off with 395s or 1400s.
 

oddshot

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Jasper, Georgia
thank you oddshot. when cutting the frame how much do you cut off??? is there a standard length or just fly by the seat of your pants? I am a machinist by trade and I read a thread about the frame on a deuce being tempered steel, if I was to cut the frame with a torch that would take the temper out of that part of the frame. have you experienced any problems with cracking or frame failure because of this?
AS I recall, I cut off 40 inches. I know I put the measurement in the threads on my build.

I didn't use the torch to shorten the frame. I used a 4" Makita grinder and cut off discs to do that job. It did a real clean job. I guess you could even use a cut-off saw.

The torch is mostly used to help with the rivets. Cut the heads off with the torch then pound the remains through the chassis. Also cutting off all those big bolts and such in the trolley with a torch saves a LOT of time and effort.

Also a GOOD electric drill AND CUTTING OIL is necessary. But then you know that already!!!8)

oddshot
 

rossM4

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boonville IN
thanks guys, I really appreciate the help on this. I will look around at the build threads and see what looks and functions the best. this information will keep my planning phase busy for a while.:)
 

JeffShoots

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Nor-Cal
There's about 2 BASIC ways of doing it.
Than the 3rd way :|
Prep the rear of your truck. Cut the rivets, remove the rear axels, driveshaft, and bed.

Use the M105 frame. Cut front and rear of the springs, slide trailer frame under your truck frame, and patch weld them together. Now bolt on your rear axel, M105 bed and lengthen your drive shaft.

Done :beer:

BTW: this is how 100dollarman and others are doing now.
 

JeffShoots

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Nor-Cal
Dont cut and weld a trailer frame to a harden steel deuce frame.
I took all the info from the builder and had my truck looked at by a good friend on the drive down from Spokane, Wa. (He is a mechanical engineer for Freightliner). He inspected all the welds and patches, drove the truck...loved it!

He did say they (Freightliner) do and have for some time put warnings on the trucks not to weld to the hardened frame. Uneducated people will weld across the frame to add extensions or a different hitch type.

Weld with the frame and patch <> not across.

Now all the maintenance is done by a friend that is the head mechanic for Sierra Pacific and said the same about my truck.

After taking all the advice on the truck, this forum and with the trailer being rated at ONLY 1 1/2 Ton I'm never going to have a problem.

I don't have 1 1/2 TONS of stuff to haul in my shortbed truck :mrgreen:
 

jluv1185

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Location
baton rouge/la
Contact Hanksdeuce on here...he is about to do the same thing. He'll have all the answers/links real handy. Tell him I told ya to hit him up, thats its time he contributed to the cause. LOL
 

blackrock

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Phoenixville,Pa
Im offering a 8" lift. All 3/8 plate with pcs of 2"ODx.25wall DOM running threw the center of 4 3/8 plates. usmctopgun on this site is the first buyer and will be doing a write up on the install very soon. Also, Hanksdeuce is interested in a kit.


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