What to look for in a M1009 CUCV?

[Redneckbmxer24]

I'm looking into M1009's and I want to know what to look for before I go to look at a couple local one's for sale. I made a huge mistake buying my Deuce and didn't know what to look for and ended up with a pile of crap that was supposed to be in great shape (engine bright does wonder's for hiding all the oil leaks). I got it home and noticed the end of the axle seals leaking and the bolts on the caps were hand tight and over time more and more oil leaks kept popping up so I sold it at a loss.

I want to make sure I get a good one and need to know what to look for. Also it's my understanding these came with two different transmissions, which trans is better, and how do I tell which is which?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[midcounty]

First I have heard of two transmissions. They should all have turbo 400 trannys as far as I know. I prefer to have the original 24v system in tack, mostly because I don't want to buy something someone improperly converted to 12v. Injector pumps and rust are probably the biggest issues in the cucv type trucks. It is like looking at any other pick up or blazer. Just try to find one that hasn't been butchered and rigged by someone who doesn't have a clue.

 

[Redneckbmxer24]

Thanks for the reply. I had heart they had both the T400 and 700R4 and the T400 was more desirable especially for towing. I won't be towing much but I want to be able to tow my RZR out to the mountains to ride, it doesn't weigh much though maybe 2200LBS for RZR, trailer, and gear.

I was going to try to find one that the 24V system was all original then convert it myself to be sure it's done right. I figured on checking for rust and stress cracks on the body, frame, and suspension. What happens with the injector pump that I need to look out for? If I have to do a little work to it I don't mind but I do want something pretty solid to start with.

Let me know if you want to sell one of yours lol.

 

[midcounty]

Do a search in the cucv section using the words 'injection pump' and/or 'IP' in the titles. You should find a bunch of info that way. These trucks are all going to have old injection pumps unless you find one that someone recently had rebuilt. Just figure it is a good possibility you will need to deal with that at some point. If you can change the pump yourself, you should be able to get a rebuilt pump and all the gaskets for less then 400 bucks. Also the lift pumps go bad. They aren't expensive, just a pain to change. If not already done, do yourself a favor and upgrade to a spin on feul filter. The GM bases leak and cause problems. I bought three of these and sold one. They all had good running gear and only needed minor things to make road ready. They are usually low mileage trucks that have been relatively well taken care of. The biggest issues will probably be what was done with it by owners after it left the service.

 

[Redneckbmxer24]

I'll search for the injector pump issues. Rebuilding it won't be an issue if it needs to be done, I should be able to rebuild it myself if I can get the parts and I can definitely remove and install it myself.

What's involved in doing the lift pumps? Also what all do you have to get/replace to do the spin on filter?

 

[midcounty]

Unless you work at a diesel shop, let a pro rebuild the pump. If you rebuild it yourself a pro will still need to calibrate it, and that will cost just about as much. I have a friend who runs a shop, and he said he could rebuild the pump, tune it, and give me a little more power for 250 bucks. Ofcourse that was at my discounted price for helping him out in the past. Lift pump is like a v8 chevy feul pump, just close to the frame and tight to work on. I have the wix part numbers somewhere for the filter assembly, but I found them on here first by searching filter conversion in cucv section.

 

[NDT]

If you are whining about some oil leaks on your deuce, the CUCV trucks are really gonna pee in your Cheerios. Expect reoccuring maintenance on the glow plug system, alternators, starter, front axle, and steering column controls. Most important aspect of picking a good 1009 in my opinion is finding a rust free body.

 

[midcounty]

One other thing, service the front wheel bearings asap. They are notorious for going bad if not serviced soon after leaving the gl lot.

 

[91W350]

Tail gate rust and rear window regulators. They have a tendency to leak around the top and drip on the inside floor, it runs forward and gets into the seams behind the seats. It is a very hard problem to fix, once rusty there as the panels overlap. The rear quarters and the front body mounts. Crawl under the driver's side and look up at the floor from the bottom. Frequently they will be rusty/rusting. They are not a low maintenance vehicle, there is always something to be done. Thankfully, they are fairly easy ad cheap to repair.

A leaky deuce? 40 years old and it is junk for oil leaks? I think axles seals on a deuce are just waiting to seep, either the pinion or axle seal. Just part of the beast. I think you will find leaks in any surplus released vehicle, these glorious green boxes are far from new. Glen

 

[Redneckbmxer24]

Unless you work at a diesel shop, let a pro rebuild the pump. If you rebuild it yourself a pro will still need to calibrate it, and that will cost just about as much. I have a friend who runs a shop, and he said he could rebuild the pump, tune it, and give me a little more power for 250 bucks. Ofcourse that was at my discounted price for helping him out in the past. Lift pump is like a v8 chevy feul pump, just close to the frame and tight to work on. I have the wix part numbers somewhere for the filter assembly, but I found them on here first by searching filter conversion in cucv section.

Yeah I wouldn't know how to calibrate it and it probably wouldn't be worth the time to learn, I'll just have it done or buy a rebuilt one. I'll look into the filter numbers too, thanks.

If you are whining about some oil leaks on your deuce, the CUCV trucks are really gonna pee in your Cheerios. Expect reoccuring maintenance on the glow plug system, alternators, starter, front axle, and steering column controls. Most important aspect of picking a good 1009 in my opinion is finding a rust free body.

It wasn't some oil leaks, the normal ones like the knuckles and transfer case where present but the engine was unusually clean and after getting it home and driving it a little I soon found out why. There were massive amounts of oil leaking out of the head aswell as the air pack. The seller (a member here) or his mechanic, or both blantantly tried to cover up the fact it was leaking by cleaning the engine before showing me the truck if I had seen those leaks I would have never purchased it. I could probably go after him for it but I'm not that kind of person. If I have to work on it a little it isn't a big deal, I have the means and tools to work on a vehicle the size of a CUCV but not to work on the big crap like the deuce's.

One other thing, service the front wheel bearings asap. They are notorious for going bad if not serviced soon after leaving the gl lot.

Will do, I need to do them on another truck so I'll make a day of it.

Tail gate rust and rear window regulators. They have a tendency to leak around the top and drip on the inside floor, it runs forward and gets into the seams behind the seats. It is a very hard problem to fix, once rusty there as the panels overlap. The rear quarters and the front body mounts. Crawl under the driver's side and look up at the floor from the bottom. Frequently they will be rusty/rusting. They are not a low maintenance vehicle, there is always something to be done. Thankfully, they are fairly easy ad cheap to repair.

A leaky deuce? 40 years old and it is junk for oil leaks? I think axles seals on a deuce are just waiting to seep, either the pinion or axle seal. Just part of the beast. I think you will find leaks in any surplus released vehicle, these glorious green boxes are far from new. Glen

Thanks for the details on places to check for rust. I'm aware there will be constant maintenance to be done but I'm just trying to get a good one, not a problem one to start with. The parts are indeed cheap and I don't mind wrenching a little, I'm very used to working on my toys, my Mustang is an absolute money pit that is always breaking something. I've got almost $50K in the car, imagine the MV's I could have had with that much spent.

The axles seals, and pinion seals were leaking on all axles. The transfer case was leaking too which is all normal. The head leaking (bad) and air pack leaking (also bad) aren't normal on any of the M35's I've seen which is probably why the engine was cleaned. Either way it was falsely advertised and I got burned. It was a learning point for me because I loved the thing and was one of the coolest vehicles I've ever driven but I just had no use for it other than offroading which it was decent for but not as good as other vehicles and the ride to go offroading in it sucked. I'll probably pick up another from GL in the future and get a gooseneck trailer to haul it on behind my superduty but that's a ways down the road. I'd much rather have something I can drive pretty much anywhere that doesn't cause people to wreck their cars while they are staring at it.

 

[91W350]

That is one of the great things about driving the old Dodge around, nobody notices it and we just blend right in wherever we go. If you really want to disappear, take out the old Graham Bros truck... life is good.... Glen

 

[mktopside]

You are going to be sorely disappointed if you think a CUCV is less work than a deuce. Sorely. I drive my M1009 daily and it takes 5X the work to keep on the road. I like it because I don't have payments on it, it gets good gas mileage, and it's emissions exempt. Other than that, it's a disposable vehicle that is about 20 years past it's "discard if not eaten by" date.

If you have a powerstroke keep it and have fun, an M1009 is just a 1980s blazer without a radio. I don't mean to knock them, they are what they are and I intend to drive mine for a long time. But on the coolness scale they are about as exciting as a K car, and dissolve in the rain like toilet paper.

 

[Terracoma]

If I have to work on it a little it isn't a big deal, I have the means and tools to work on a vehicle the size of a CUCV but not to work on the big crap like the deuce's.

This has been my excuse for not buying an M35 as well. I'd be up a creek if a major power assembly fails.

Still, though, a CUCV is going to be a smaller project, but still a project that'll need a lot of love.

 

[dstang97]

You are going to be sorely disappointed if you think a CUCV is less work than a deuce. Sorely. I drive my M1009 daily and it takes 5X the work to keep on the road. I like it because I don't have payments on it, it gets good gas mileage, and it's emissions exempt. Other than that, it's a disposable vehicle that is about 20 years past it's "discard if not eaten by" date.

If you have a powerstroke keep it and have fun, an M1009 is just a 1980s blazer without a radio. I don't mean to knock them, they are what they are and I intend to drive mine for a long time. But on the coolness scale they are about as exciting as a K car, and dissolve in the rain like toilet paper.

WOW tell us what you really think..... I'll add my They are the best trucks i have ever had. And i have had a crappy powerstroke. I would rather have 20 cucv's. Im with NDT find one that is rust free even if it is a non runner.

 

[K9Vic]

One other thing, service the front wheel bearings asap. They are notorious for going bad if not serviced soon after leaving the gl lot.

Agreed, I did this on my M1009 right away and they were OK, but needed some more grease. I have also done a M1008/28 tucks as well after I bought them. You can borrow the sockets from Autozone, just need a deposit.

I would also change the front and rear axle oil along with a trans fluid flush.

If you are whining about some oil leaks on your deuce, the CUCV trucks are really gonna pee in your Cheerios. Expect reoccurring maintenance on the glow plug system, alternators, starter, front axle, and steering column controls. Most important aspect of picking a good 1009 in my opinion is finding a rust free body.

My M1009 does not leak anything, but I have replaced most of the seals and transmission to transfer case seal. My oil does not leak from the underside, but some of the normal upper gasket seals due to age.

The starting system is really the only major difference in these trucks, but is easy to work on with help from here. If the truck starts within 20 seconds including the wait to start time, it should be fine. If it takes any effort, there is something wrong with the starting system. My M1009 probably sat in a field for 6 years and I applied two good batteries to it and started in about 30-45 seconds. I would consider that good for how long it sat, but if it sat for like a week or two I would wonder why it took that long.

Anyways, be careful and look it over as you would looking at any used vehicle. Be sure to crawl under it and check for rust and anything that may look broken as well.

 

[mktopside]

WOW tell us what you really think..... I'll add my They are the best trucks i have ever had. And i have had a crappy powerstroke. I would rather have 20 cucv's. Im with NDT find one that is rust free even if it is a non runner.

It's dishonest to discount the inherent issues that they all have.

I will say, that as far as vehicles go, they are a great vehicle for the price range that they sell for. If you just need "a truck", they're a good deal. However, if you took the money and time that it takes to make one reliable and put it into an old Ram with a Cummins, you'd have a better truck.

The only thing that makes them semi-reliable is their simplicity and parts commonality. Other than that, they aren't exactly power houses of performance or reliability.

Don't get me wrong, I would still jump at one that was 100% rust free.