Going to turbo the M1008

[AlexFolino]

Finally going to turbo this bad boy. I got a GM 4 from a 95 6.5L and all its related parts. Being its a stock motor i know to go no more than 10psi and no more than 1000F egt (atleast what im told). I searched the forums tonight on peoples conversions but im still stuck on some things. What do i do to make sure the turbo does not put out more than 10PSI and when i turn the pump up would it be safer to just go 1/8 of a turn to help with the EGT or will a 1/4 turn be ok? I just dont want to blow this engine, i really like this truck. Everything else i am 100% on just these little things im skeptical. Ive considered the pyrometer however i do have a expensive heat gun that i figured maybe go 1/8 of a turn and check the temp at manifold when running and experiment from there. What are the pros and cons of 1/8 to 1/4 when running the turbo? i dont need a speed demon just a truck that can cruise comfy up hills and do 60-70mph relatively easy(the built 700r4 i built will achieve the gearing side).

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Please post pics and parts of your install as this is one of the mods that I really need to do once I save up the cash for it. 25mph WOT without even towing at altitude sucks. The lowest I really go is 8000 ft. The 1028 is severely anemic at 10 and 11k.

 

[cucv1833]

I got the same turbo on my m1008 it would only pull about 5-6 psi but it was plently of power.
i had the pump turned up 1/4 and didnt experiance any black smoke are abnormal effects.
Good luck with your build i seen a thread on here that has step by step how to do if needed.

 

[idM1028]

From what I've heard you should be looking at 10-15 PSI tops during a WOT run. EGT probably needs to be a tad less. Maybe 1000 for a WOT run, sustained, figure about 900-950. Once you got your boost dialed in, tweak your fuel until you're in the right EGT range. Then again, I once read a good article on the install of a Banks turbo kit on a M1009. IIRC the instructions called for turning the fuel/IP up a quarter turn.

 

[Lawrence of Arabia]

I put one on my M1028. The thing runs so much better, but I am experiencing some leaks. I parked it until I can put a gauge on it and be sure I am not over 10PSI even though Banks assures me I would be lucky to see anything higher than 8PSI.

 

[cucv1833]

heres a pic of mine my freind had installed it on the truck before i got it The oil line was expensive $150 braided S.S. heres a pic of were i put the boost gauge the one with the white face. the rear battery box had to be removed to fit the turbo in place. I never seen over 6 Psi and that was W.O.T. mostly just driving around nomally it would just go up th 2psi. It really make a big differance though compared to my N/A 6.2

 

[idM1028]

heres a pic of mine my freind had installed it on the truck before i got it The oil line was expensive $150 braided S.S. heres a pic of were i put the boost gauge the one with the white face. the rear battery box had to be removed to fit the turbo in place. I never seen over 6 Psi and that was W.O.T. mostly just driving around nomally it would just go up th 2psi. It really make a big differance though compared to my N/A 6.2

Thats something I just thought of: battery boxes/trays. Chances are you'll have to do some modification to these. Even in the article I read with the Banks kit on the M1009, they had to do this. The front battery tray was in the way of where the air filter housing went. The guys doing the modification bought a new civvie style battery tray from LMC and drilled a few holes in for the housing.

 

[Brett09]

I have the banks kit with gauges hooked up. General driving with no load I'm about 500-650 and around 1-4lbs. With a small to moderate load on the engine I can be anywhere from 650-950 and 5-8 lbs. I have given in the beans a few times and it has peaked at 1050-1075 and 10.5-11 lbs. At any driving style the most I get is a small haze with no black that I've seen. My final dial in on my pump was between 1/16th to 1/8th past 1/4 of a turn.

My two cents is to spend the extra bucks on the pyro, it's the only way of knowing whats going on inside. I would be careful not turning it up the recommended 1/4 turn. Sometimes not adding enough fuel could be a bad thing too. Not having the correct amount of fuel could not be giving the correct amount of exhaust gases thus not spooling the turbo enough. This could lead to high temps too. I do have limited experience with turbo charging diesel so this may not be the case, but this how its been for me so take it for what it is.

 

[Rustmaster]

bump

 

[dstang97]

Max your pump out and get some gauges you will be fine. Our DB pump can't over fuel your motor with the turbo.

 

[Dave87]

I put a gm-3 Turbo on my 1028. I to am experiencing some leaks but only above 10psi. I have a turbo and all parts that go with it. I also put the IP from the same motor so I didn't have to adjust anything. The Turbo should only allow 5psi with the stock waste gate. Good luck and Have fun.

 

[bubba_got_you]

i have a gm8 on my truck with a mechanical waste gate and the most i have ever seen it put out was 11psi when i was going over the skyway bridge here in Florida. try and keep it around 8-10 psi and under 1000* egt. if i where you id go 1/4 turn and install a gauge. i used an Auber Instruments boost and egt gauge for my truck.

 

[southdave]

I got one of those heath turbo master, and pushed about 15psi on it til I adjusted it

 

[southdave]

sorry here is the pic....
I relocated the batteries to the rear, and installed pyro and boost gauge

 

[jdeoliveira74]

anybody have any extra turbos laying around with all the fixings so i can do my m1009

 

[chevyCUCV]

anybody have any extra turbos laying around with all the fixings so i can do my m1009

No but to rub it in, i just picked a kit up for 250 shipped to my door.

 

[cbr600rx7]

I know it’s been a while but I just want to post a few things for others that come across this thread.
First off the Banks kit is kind of a waste in my opinion. The newer waste gated version is a little better and does a great job at keeping the EGT’s down but the upper intake box and the filter box are horrible. The older none waste gated banks kits are even worse. On my 6.2 the none wastegated system would make about 5-6 psi. Once I swapped to a 6.5 6 bolt intake manifold the response and boost went up to about 8-9 pounds. I was also able to use the stock charge tube that comes on the banks system to do this with a little cutting on both the tube and the upper manifold. I also played around with ditching the Banks air filter housing and noticed a huge improvement in response and boost at close to 13 pounds!. This was a stock 6.2 and I didn’t feel safe running it like that daily so I backed her down a little bit. Sounds good right? Not so much after you spend your money and time to cut up and fab half of a turbo kit you just spent 2500 bucks on.
To me you are better off picking up all the hard pipes and manifolds from a used 6.5 truck and building your own kit that will outperform the banks. There are lots of good turbos you can use out there and when you use a 6 bolt 6.5 upper even a GM4 and a mechanical waste gate will perform well at a quarter of the cost.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Does it matter what year 6.5 the setup comes from? I know the wastegate actuator will need to be modified to mechanical but are there any other drawbacks to using a setup off a 2000 Chevy truck?