m1008 voltage gauge in the yellow on start, is that normal?

[494canam]

Have you replaced your fuel filter? Temperature sensitive , it is very important maint. 6.2 fuel filters cause many symptons. A good practice for dual alternators is to first disconnect batts and pull both alts and take to rebuilder ; freshen brushes, bearings and have them bench tested for output. over tightening alts will not cause driveability problems ; but can be rough on bearings. a bad or shorted cell in batt can also cause alt light to come on , as well as a bad rectifier. remember it is cheaper to rebuild than to replace. good luck

 

[maxpanic]

if the wait light isn't the best way to tell if the glow plugs are cycling, then i am not sure if they are cycling. I wonder if that is the deep clicking sound I hear on occassion.

 

[maxpanic]

The gen 2 light also almost never flashes if the head lights are on, even in the morning. This is really strange.

 

[maxpanic]

I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet. I will look into doing that.

 

[Barrman]

When you hear the "deep clicking" sound your hear. Look at your volt meter. It should be moving up or down with the sound.

The WAIT light just tells you when the plugs are "pre-glowing." They also "after glow" once the engine starts for up to a minute depending on out side temps and engine load.

Are your glow plugs still 24V supplied or switched over to just 12V? I would guess they are still stock with the firewall mounted resistor. If not, then ALT 2 has nothing to do with the glow plugs and you need to look again at the battery, cables and the alternator.

 

[Terracoma]

if the wait light isn't the best way to tell if the glow plugs are cycling, then i am not sure if they are cycling. I wonder if that is the deep clicking sound I hear on occassion.

When I start up my truck, I watch my voltmeter and listen for the 'clunk'.

My glow plug relay makes a muffled, but very pronounced 'clunk' that is audible in the cab when it opens/closes the connection, so it's very easy to tell by that alone. Also, I can watch the voltmeter, as it should react to the large current draw produced by the glow plugs all working in unison. When the engine is running, my voltmeter will drop into the yellow range whenever the plugs are doing their thing.


EDIT: Beat me to it... Barrman types faster than I do!

 

[maxpanic]

So the only time the glow plugs cycle is in the morning, they come on once and then don't come on again. I can hear the clunk and watch the volt meter go down to the yellow but only for a few seconds and then the plugs don't come on again, at least this time of year.

 

[maxpanic]

Doing an alternator rebuild after buying the rebuild kit. What's the trick to taking the pully nut off the alternator? Seems that I have an allen in the center of the arbor and the nut that holds the pully on is not coming off, seems very awkward trying to hold the alternator on the groung while trying to get the nut loosened. Should I just take the other bolts off and leave that nut on?

 

[doghead]

Use an impact wrench.

Worst case, you could leave the pulley on and not replace the front bearing.

 

[maxpanic]

won't the impact wrench just spin on the arbor?

 

[ryan77]

No hold the pulley and hit the nut with a impact wrench should come of in 2 seconds!!!

 

[Barrman]

Short trigger burst are best.

 

[maxpanic]

Wow, the impact gun is like magic. Thanks for the tip. I rebuilt the alternator, that was pretty cool. Got it back in the truck. took it for a test drive seems to be great. no more flashing gen 2 light and the gauge is in the green on the line as it should be after a few cycles of the glow plugs. Thanks to all of you that contributed and helped me out so much on this. It has been great.

Now I still have to change the fuel filter, I think, is that hard to do? anyone know which TM it is?

 

[Terracoma]

Now I still have to change the fuel filter, I think, is that hard to do? anyone know which TM it is?

TM 9-2320-289-20 "Unit Maintenance Manual"

Table of Contents (TOC)
-- Chapter 3, Engine System
---- Section II, Fuel System
------ Paragraph 17, Fuel Filter
-------- Page 52


Fuel filter should be a walk in the park after that alternator rebuild.

Be sure to drain the fuel filter prior to removing it, that should help minimize fuel spillage. The procedure for draining is in the -10TM (Operator's Manual) under Preventative Maintenance, but I'll let you track that one down. However, you shouldn't need to run the engine at all, as the goal is simply to remove any fuel left sitting in the filter.

 

[maxpanic]

Is it correct that this is just the civilian fuel filter I can get from autozone?

 

[doghead]

It is a very common filter used on much more than the CUCV.

 

[maxpanic]

Ok, so a new issue has come up. I decided to introduce a new variable. My wife. She wanted to go buy some materials from the hardware store to build a dog house for the cat. I thought, she can't hurt it can she? Boy was I wrong, so I get home and the truck starts right up but the gen 1 and 2 lights are both on very bright and won't turn off. The horn isn't working and it honked when I turned the wheel. The voltage guage is in the top of the yellow and doesn't recover. Did she blow a fuse? I haven't gotten to change the fuel filter yet either. Please help me save my baby from my wifes abuse.

 

[overkill375]

Never let the wife unit touch your truck

 

[maxpanic]

I guess I should know better. I also noticed that the head lights and running lights don't work even when I turn on the service lights switch. makes me think a ground has opened up or something weird like that.

 

[Smokingman]

I guess I should know better. I also noticed that the head lights and running lights don't work even when I turn on the service lights switch. makes me think a ground has opened up or something weird like that.

She hit a curb? Check your batteries to make sure they are secure.Check the grounds.Make sure your rebuilt alternator still has the isolated ground intact.