Understanding Deuces

[plym49]

OK, so sometimes you think you know, but if you are honest with yourself you realize that you might not have it down pat. So please help enlighten me:

What are the major differences between an M35, M35A1 and M35A2? Are the differences minor, or some to be avoided?

What can you run in a multi-fuel engine? IOW, you can top off the diesel with gas? Or kerosene? Or run gas or kero alone? What about waste oils - is that possible, and if so, how?

Whistlers. I love that sound. Which models have them? Can a vehicle be retrofitted with a whistler turbo?

Milion dollar question: aside from all of the standard things you would look at on any vehicle, what are the things that could really eat your lunch (if you were buying one)?

Noob questions but I am just not sure I know the facts as opposed to barracks chatter.

 

[bugwugger]

If u feed it fuel, it will be your best friend. Brother there is a search button relating to everything u posted.
Multifuel will run ANYTHING oil based none acidic. !!
Don't try isopropenal alchohol unless you know how to cut and mix.

 

[wsucougarx]

My biggest recommendation is NOT to buy a deuce with a SPRAG transfer case...just my personal thing I guess.

 

[plym49]

My biggest recommendation is NOT to buy a deuce with a SPRAG transfer case...just my personal thing I guess.

How do you identify a SPRAG tc?

 

[AceHigh]

It will take you longer to find a whistler turbo than to install it. If the bolts don't break on the manifold it is an hour or so job.

There should be an air switch below the dash if you have an air transfer case.

 

[glcaines]

My biggest recommendation is NOT to buy a deuce with a SPRAG transfer case...just my personal thing I guess.

I prefer an air transfer case. That being said, sprag units work fine if set up correctly.

 

[wsucougarx]

You can see the air shift lever just under the instrument cluster. I only say stay away from SPRAG from personal experiences of them going out. Also, the countless stories of guys who drove these trucks when they were the used. I was told the SPRAG not working was the major reason why many deuces were deadlined. Of course, maintenance and not coasting backwards while in reverse will help keep a SPRAG alive.
Other than that I don't have a recommendation on turbo vs non turbo. The non turbo will more than likely has less power and will smoke a bit more. Haha seems everyone wants a whistler,...I guess I would like to have at least one in my lifetime.
Then you have hardtop vs soft top. Both have their benefits and downsides. I love the hardtop for keeping the sound out of the cab, then again ear plugs do too. Soft tops afford the ability to go topless much quicker and with less hassle compared to a hardtop.
Let me know if you have any questions

 

[bajajoaquin]

OK, so sometimes you think you know, but if you are honest with yourself you realize that you might not have it down pat. So please help enlighten me:

What are the major differences between an M35, M35A1 and M35A2? Are the differences minor, or some to be avoided?

What can you run in a multi-fuel engine? IOW, you can top off the diesel with gas? Or kerosene? Or run gas or kero alone? What about waste oils - is that possible, and if so, how?

This is from memory, and I don't have the references at work, so there may be some corrections coming from other members....

The M35 was the original DRW variant of the M44. It was a gas-engined truck. They were converted to the M35a1 standard, which was the non-turbo multifuel. M35a2 was the turbo version, which came in C and D turbos. I'm drawing a blank on C/D, but if I recall correctly, the C is the Whistler, and the D is quieter. The primary reason for the turbo was reducing smoke output, but there was some small power increase.

Substantially all deuces were upgraded to the A2 standard, so finding a gasser is pretty rare. Non-turbos are also unusual, but not nearly as rare.

Someone else can talk to the details of fuel, but you should look up the TMs on the truck. But they don't recommend using straight gasoline as a regular fuel. Think of the truck as a diesel that can run other fuels.

 

[Barrman]

It has pretty much been covered. Just a few things to add.

Brake systems seem to all be bad or about to go on all M35 trucks. The more you drive it, the longer things last and work right. I had new everything in my Gasser M35 in 2008. I drove it 2-3 times a week and never had troubles. I started moving it every other week about a year ago because I didn't have time to drive it. 2 or 3 wheel cylinders are showing their anger at me now.

Running oil or anything you think needs to be converted to smoke is fine. However, the truck really likes diesel. Keep it on diesel and things will probably last longer. Nothing wrong with a few thousand gallons of oil stock piled away for a zombie day though.

Reading the manuals for the truck helps a lot. So will going to the duece forum, clicking the "oldest" button on the page listings and reading everything between then and now.

 

[wreckerman893]

My issue with the Sprag is that you cannot shift into all wheel drive when you want to.

The sprag engages when the rear wheels spin.......often too late to get you out of deep doo doo.

I drove the sprag trucks in Germany in the 70's and got stuck several times because of that issue.

 

[BruceB]

[QUOTE.

"Reading the manuals for the truck helps a lot. So will going to the deuce forum, clicking the "oldest" button on the page listings and reading everything between then and now."

Amen and Amen!

As a newbie to the military trucks, I just bought a bobbed Deuce in almost complete ignorance.

I did exactly as suggested above, starting on Page 751 of the The Deuce forum and reading forward toward the newest posts. Now reading at page 32, I will say that the exercise has given me the steepest learning curve I've confronted in decades....but I know a VAST amount now that I didn't know when buying the truck.

By pure good fortune, my truck has the air-shift transfer case, the "digital" light switch, a manifold flame heater and some other goodies of which I was utterly ignorant.

Many thanks are due to SS and the helpful and knowledgeable posters here. Incidentally, reading the 750-odd pages of threads has kept me occupied (and THINKING) for several weeks now.

 

[swbradley1]

Well I never even thought to tell someone to just read every single post in the Deuce forum. That's got to be easier and quicker than using search.

 

[bones1]

Roger that!

 

[plym49]

Thanks for the replies so far. I do know about 'search' and I have been reading through the various threads for some time. That is often not the same as a direct reply; so please keep the feedback coming.

One thing I am wondering about is how 'heavy' a shop one needs for the care and feeding of a Deuce. I have a well-equipped shop (MIG, machine tools, hand tools, and so on well beyond average) but on the automotive and light truck end of the world. I do not have heavy jacks, 1" drive sockets and the like. What would I need to, for example, replace a wheel cylinder?

Here are a few pix of one I am looking at. Any red flags here?

 

[John S-B]

Plym, as for tools, you don't need a lot of exotic tools. A good 8-12 ton bottle jack will get your wheels in the air with no problem. A pair of at least 6 ton jack stands will keep them there. You can get a Harbor Freight 3/4" drive socket set for not much $, and it should do most of the jobs you need. You'll need the special bearing nut socket, it's easy to find. A wheel cylinder just needs the usual tools. A cheapo 1" air rachet should do, as it's not being used all the time. The air compressor takes a special wrench too, but you can use a pipe wrench.

 

[plym49]

Plym, as for tools, you don't need a lot of exotic tools. A good 8-12 ton bottle jack will get your wheels in the air with no problem. A pair of at least 6 ton jack stands will keep them there. You can get a Harbor Freight 3/4" drive socket set for not much $, and it should do most of the jobs you need. You'll need the special bearing nut socket, it's easy to find. A wheel cylinder just needs the usual tools. A cheapo 1" air rachet should do, as it's not being used all the time. The air compressor takes a special wrench too, but you can use a pipe wrench.

That's good to know, thanks. A lot of you guys have some really heavy-duty equipment and shops.

 

[swbradley1]

Jack stands are one thing but if you plan on getting under the truck I always use cribbing timbers along with the stands and I leave the jack under there as well.

I'm in security so I'm paranoid by nature.

 

[plym49]

Jack stands are one thing but if you plan on getting under the truck I always use cribbing timbers along with the stands and I leave the jack under there as well.

I'm in security so I'm paranoid by nature.

Cribbing I have, and I agree on adequately and redundantly supporting anything that can fall, break or hurt.

 

[treeguy]

Don't forget to buy a multimeter, nothing fancy, just something to test for 24 volts. The first time you try to find power with a 12v probe will teach you. I keep one in the truck, one never knows. I nicked a wire and every time I put the blinker on the starter would engage. WTF was my first thought. Track down the wires so you can figure what goes where. I removed a significant amount of electrical tape so I could find everything and check its quality. I hate tape. I'd rather wrap things in the plastic jacket if needed or leave it wire tied for visual inspection.

 

[rpollitt01]

You can never be too safe with large vehicles...I agree!