• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Dangerous Situation Today With My M1009

BobM

Member
593
6
18
Location
Fillmore, Indiana
Here it is. The bearing fits inside of it. I understand what a race is but I'm not seeing one in the parts that I took out of the bad hub or the good one. Seeing as how bearing fit more than one vehicle I just want to make sure it's not something that is used for one vehicle but not another.
Yep, that is your race. I don't have a schematic at hand, but there should be an old race you hafta drive out and replace with this.
 

BobM

Member
593
6
18
Location
Fillmore, Indiana
On my new hubs it wouldn't have races in it would it?

Also do the inner bearing use races?
Your new hub MIGHT already have a race installed in it. And yes, all cone shaped bearings use races. And PLEASE don't tell us you trial installed your bearing without greasing it first! If you tried it dry, it would be very hard to turn. ( It also just might scratch it up and make it useless!)
 

Ghost2012

New member
92
0
0
Location
Jacksonville, FL
At 1:36 I think it answers your question, the splined "race" looks like just a support. NO decent race would have splines or cut outs as the petals would move and bend either coming out of round, or causing the cage to crack.

Place the race ON TOP of that petal and assy as normal. The hub should just barely clear IIRC. If the hub cap doesn't bolt up, you know you've done something wrong. Keep us updated :beer:
 

niferous

Member
715
6
18
Location
Houston, TX
At 1:36 I think it answers your question, the splined "race" looks like just a support. NO decent race would have splines or cut outs as the petals would move and bend either coming out of round, or causing the cage to crack.

Place the race ON TOP of that petal and assy as normal. The hub should just barely clear IIRC. If the hub cap doesn't bolt up, you know you've done something wrong. Keep us updated :beer:
I think you're talking about some lines left from a greased bearing being put in?
 

BobM

Member
593
6
18
Location
Fillmore, Indiana
OK. I got out my old manual before spouting off. The new hub you have does already have the bearing race installed. That is why the bearing fits when you put it down in there. You can start a whole 'nother argument about whether you should pull this race out and replace it with your new one.
Now I don't really mean PULL the race out of there. What you would have to do is turn the hub over and locate the knock-out spaces that allow you to DRIVE the race out of the hub with a punch. The race fits VERY snuggly in there and it takes a good bit of hammering to drive it out with a punch. A race will NOT just drop in place as the one did when you put it in on top of the pressed in race.
After reading your posts and using them as a gauge, I would advise that you just leave this race in place and use it. After all, it IS a new race and races are not hand-fitted. They are plucked out of a tub of like races and packaged. Any one should work just fine. This will take one oderous task off your shoulders!;)
If you don't already have one, I suggest that you buy or even borrow a Haynes manual for these year trucks. It is a cheap investment that will save you loads thru the years. I looked up the schematic in mine before I posted this. I tried to scan it, but the quality was terrible. I have both the Haynes and the Chilton manuals as I have had a LOT of these trucks over the years.
I wish you weren't so far away, I'd drop by and TRY to help.:sad:
 
Last edited:

niferous

Member
715
6
18
Location
Houston, TX
I do have a Chilton manual but it's schematic and instructions on this section are very vague. I'll try to find a Haynes manual today and see if it's any better.

Tonight I clean the old spindle that was good and will be putting it back on. I'll let everyone know how it's goes. Hopefully I'll be able to post a video tonight of the thing rolling under its own power.
 

BobM

Member
593
6
18
Location
Fillmore, Indiana
I do have a Chilton manual but it's schematic and instructions on this section are very vague. I'll try to find a Haynes manual today and see if it's any better.

Tonight I clean the old spindle that was good and will be putting it back on. I'll let everyone know how it's goes. Hopefully I'll be able to post a video tonight of the thing rolling under its own power.

Sounds great! Most times you can figure it out as you go. Actually having the parts in your hands helps a LOT! Good luck and we will all be waiting to hear from you![thumbzup]
 

niferous

Member
715
6
18
Location
Houston, TX
Looking at some videos online I'm thinking I didnt grease the wheel bearing enough. I'll probably pop those out and put some more in there just to be safe.
 

BobM

Member
593
6
18
Location
Fillmore, Indiana
Looking at some videos online I'm thinking I didnt grease the wheel bearing enough. I'll probably pop those out and put some more in there just to be safe.
Yes, you must really cup the grease into those bearings. If you have never done this before, you need to get a palm full of grease and then "cup" the bearing repeatedly until the grease comes all the way thru the bearing. Take your time and make sure you have no air pockets in there. A few extra minutes here can save LOTS of money/time later!;-)
 

niferous

Member
715
6
18
Location
Houston, TX
Well the crappy thing is that I installed the seals on the bottom of the hub so now I have to pull those put. I hope I can get them out without damaging them. Last time I just used a flat head screw driver and pried them out. Any tips on that would be welcomed.
 

niferous

Member
715
6
18
Location
Houston, TX
Well guys after all this time it looks like I finally have a working CUCV again! Thanks for all the help. I just hope my repairs were done right and I won't have to mess with the hubs or anything again.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7qs20yyoNI[/media]
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,493
113
Location
mid- michigan
Well guys after all this time it looks like I finally have a working CUCV again! Thanks for all the help. I just hope my repairs were done right and I won't have to mess with the hubs or anything again.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7qs20yyoNI[/media]
The wheel bearings are a maintainace item , you should jack it up and check for play in them every few months and depending how much you drive it you should repack them once a year .
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks