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gen 1 light

OL AG '89

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9
18
Location
Kingwood, Texas
Do you have electronic copy of TM's?
Need to delete post read the TM's and then once you have more knowledge of the vehicle systems ask the question.....

Not trying to frag you on first post, but you're setting yourself up for a grenade or two.

If you don't know where to find the TM's do a search on site there are several members that have copies on their websites at this time.
 

Warthog

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my gen 1 light has been on for a long time so i replaced my drivers side gen......light is still on whats wrong?
Welcome to SteelSoldiers.

Make sure you visit the Cucv Wiki - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite (CUCV Wiki) that is at the top of the page on the CUCV Forum.

All of the CUCV Technical Manuals are listed and many other helpful bits of information.

You need to download the repair manuals. You can get then for free. A couple of our members have posted them on their websites.

www.jatonkam35s.com
www.liberatedmanuals.com

The wiring diagrams are in the appendix of the -20 and -34 manuals.
Also checkout the CUCV stickys. It is where we try to post helpful tips and tricks.

Almost every question you will have has been asked and answered many times. The advanced search will become your best friend. Please don't hesitate to ask something that you can't find.

Read the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual to find out how a stock system should work. It is simular to the Operators Manual for Civilian vehicles. It tells you where all the lighs, switches, etc are located and what they do.

Three of the most important tools you can buy are:

Digital Voltmeter and know how to use it - ~$10 and up
12v Battery Charger - ~$50 for a decent one
Battery Load Tester - ~$30 for an okay one at Harbor Freight

The Troubleshooting section of the TM 9-2320-289-20 manual has a section for non-working alternators.

The light on says the the alternator is not charging. It could be anything from a loose connection, burnt fusable link to a bad ground.

No way of telling without more testing.
 

Warthog

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Sounds like it is time to clean the fuse box and replace some fuses. Check the very bottom fuse.

Are the alternators the stock Isolated Ground units?

On the driver side unit. Check the following:

1 - Make sure the ground wire is attached to the "isolated ground" post and the engine block.
2 - Check for 12v at the positive terminal
 
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howesblazer

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billerica ma
Soooo wicked funny story went to check that 12 volt at the alt and it was 24 volts:shock:........so i followed the wiring back to the what looked like the glow plug relay :shock: so i connect what was left of the wire to the 12 volt common power, the light went out but the guage still reads nothing
 

Warthog

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There is a resistor on the back of the voltmeter that will burn out.

Or the 24v fuse at the bottom of the fuse box is bad. Or the voltmeter relay is bad/missing. Or many other things.

The wiring diagrams are in the appendix of the TM 9-2320-289-20 or -34 manuals. Find the one with the voltmeter and start tracing the circuit.
 

howesblazer

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billerica ma
so today im gonna get the voltmeter outta the cluster and see if there is voltage across the terminals if there is, do i replace this 300 ohm resistor? and where is the resistor in the gauge?
 

Warthog

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It is on the terminals on the backside of the voltmeter. It is a white ceramic unit with the resistor sealed inside. The replacement from RadioShack is a regular looking resistor.

Doing an Advanced Search for "voltmeter resistor" in the CUCV Forum, these posts came up.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/57006-24v-voltage-gauge-resister-size.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/7715-i-need-voltmeter-gauge-cucv-m1009-1985-a.html#post484073
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/8816-charging-gauge-suddenly-not-working-all.html

among many others
 
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