Stacking filter bags

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I'm trying to put 3 filter bags from duda diesel on one of the pipe adapters. What tricks are people using? I stacked the 3 bags, 25 micron in the 10, and the 10 in the 5 and then I shoved the adapter into the 5 micron bag. I'm not too happy with how they're sitting on the lip of the pipe adapter. They claim you can put 4 bags on one adapter but I'm not even sure I'm doing it right. Any thoughts?

 

[exbrown]

Got a picture?

 

[scopionf89]

whear are you getting 5 micron bag filters. I have been all over looking for a cheap way to filter oil with no luck. nothing has micron ratings on fliters I have seen and I dont want to risk my truck by filtering with unrated filters. i dont care if its a hardware store in the back woods theirs got to be a way for me to get my hands on theis things.

any way if you have filters bags you could try usting a hand pump and band clamps to keep the bag on the end of the pump as long as the presure is not to high this should work.

 

[bill2444]

I tried stacking bags before, what a mess. I didn't have a pipe adapter though. Had a cut out hole in a 55 gal drum. I just use 1 micron bags now.

 

[bill2444]

I use filtersource.com Great service and very good prices.

 

[oddshot]

I'm trying to put 3 filter bags from duda diesel on one of the pipe adapters. What tricks are people using? ...
... Any thoughts?

Coincidentally, I went through the same thing earlier this week.

It took a bit of wrastlin' but I was finally able to get all the socks fitted "pretty reasonably" down onto the pipe adapter.

I am setting the assembled socks and pipe adapter down into a "strainer basket" that I have fashioned out of a length of 4" PVC and a 4" PVC coupling.

The rings inside the socks along with the pipe adapter fit perfectly into the coupling. The stop in the coupling prevents the socks from slipping down into the rest of the PVC.

I've drilled a BUNCH of holes drilled into the PVC so that it will support the socks and hopefully keep them from coming apart under pressure.

This whole assembly will fit into a "filter bag housing" that I've built from an old fire extinguisher and 3/8" mild steel.

Pictures of the whole thing will be coming soon.

oddshot

 

[oddshot]

where are you getting 5 micron bag filters. I have been all over looking for a cheap way to filter oil with no luck.

I got my bags and pipe adapter from Dudda Diesel.

DudaDiesel - Biodiesel, Chemical & Solar Supplies, Alternative Energy Store

VERY fast service.

Their site also has a good description of the filter process.

oddshot

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Thanks oddshot. Post up those pictures when you can!

And I also got mine from Duda Diesel.

I have the 7" diam bags. Sounds like oddshot is using the 4" diam.

My plan is as such:

Place 55 gal open top drum high up off the ground with 400 micron strainer for initial pour in. Probably 10 feet up in the air.

Valve in bottom pipes down to the 1-1/2" pipe adapter and filter sock assembly, no pump.

This filter sock assembly is sitting over a 220 L plastic drum that it drips into. This drum is also 5 feet or so in the air.

Valve in bottom pipes down to final storage container, a 275 gal clear tote container. Clear so that water separation can be observed and removed. The oil in the plastic container will sit for 2 weeks for water separation.

I'm open to suggestions for a more effective but cheap water separation method. I'm watching for an electric hot water tank I can remove a heating element from.

This entire operation will be in my barn so I can let it work around the clock, topping off in the highest drum as needed.

 

[oddshot]

Thanks oddshot. Post up those pictures when you can!

And I also got mine from Duda Diesel.

I have the 7" diam bags. Sounds like oddshot is using the 4" diam.

Yes I am. I going to be pumping through them using the set-up I posted here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/alternative-fuels/70546-nubes-wmo-pump-filter.html


I filtered about 400 gallons using this setup and haven't really had any problems ... It can be a little messy ... and I never really liked the "whole house" 20 micron filter cartridge.

anyoldways ... I have this old fire extinguisher sitting around ...

and the bag filters are a lot cheaper than the spin on type.

I figured I'd give it a try.

oddshot

 

[obee1kubota]

Kudoes

Thanks for all the ideas

 

[JOEDEUCE]

I just started filtering used oil myself, I'm using 10, 5, 1, and .5 micron filter bags. The filtered and thinned oil is poured into a poly 55 gallon drum where any remaining sediment can be allowed to settle. The fuel in the poly barrel has a pump with a pickup tube shorted so it doesn't pick up sediment off the bottom of barrel. The fuel then gets pumped into a 10 gallon barrel fitted with a filter/water seperator and a ball valve which I use to fill the tank on the deuce. What do y'all think, does that sound sufficient?

 

[obee1kubota]

cleanable filters.

What is your impression of the Stainless steel washable canister filters? Spendy to start $75-$95 for the filter $75 for the canister but you would never have to buy another filter. Works with gravity, air pressure or pump.

 

[oddshot]

Nube WMO filter Mk. II

My 5hp engine and gear head pump has worked out very well, but I was looking for a more compact filtering unit and wanted to use the cheaper filter socks in place of the expensive spin-ons. So I needed to come up with a filter-sock housing.

I used an old fire extinguisher to make the housing. I cut the bottom off, made a flange out of ½ steel and welded it to the extinguisher. Then I made a top flange from a bit of 5/16 scrap. I drilled a hole in the center to fit a 1” to ¾” pipe adapter and welded it in.

I stack three filter socks (I go down to 5 microns), pop in the 4” adapter head … slip all of that into a filter basket that I made from a piece of 4” PVC pipe (with a LOT of holes drilled in it), and a 4” PVC coupling. The adapter head threads onto a 1” nipple which in turn threads into the top flange. Then the whole thing slides into the fire extinguisher with a gasket and I bolt on the top flange using 5/16” hardware.

The intake side is on the top, the discharge is on the bottom. Shut- offs on the intake and discharge prevents drips and spills when I’m done filtering. The gauge on the intake side gives me a pretty good idea of what’s going on with the filter. The stand was just some stuff I had in the shed.

After the oil stock has been heated to about 150F using a water heater element, I let it sit a couple days to settle the water and crud out. Then I heat it back up and filter it. With temps at 120 to 150 the oil stock goes through the filter socks with no trouble … I only show about 5 to 10 PSI on the gauge. A water heater element only takes a couple hours to get the oil up to temp.

I pump it into my storage tank, let it cool, and then check the viscosity and specific gravity. I then thin it with gasoline to the range I found that the truck runs best on.

I've done a couple hundred gallons with this set up and it seems to work pretty well ... No runs , no drips, no errors.

Although a lot of folks use a 85 to 15 % mix, since I am running on whatever garage waste oil I can get, I have found that there is more performance and MPG's to be gotten if each batch of waste oil is addressed individually and blended closer to the specific gravity and viscosity of diesel. Some batches require more gasoline, others require less. Because the auto-ignition and BTU content of the WMO is so much higher than diesel, I see no need to use Diesel as a thinning agent.

I’m over 9 MPG and headed to 10. With a couple more tricks, and a little balloon footin’ on the throttle, I think I can get over 12MPG on a waste oil blend.

 

[DeucesWild11]

I am going to start to set up my filtration system soon and will take pics of the whole system. I am going to use the Pail filters from DudaDiesel and stack into the 5 gallon pail as follows 600 - 400- 200- 100- 75 micron. Then cut the bottom out of the pail and mount the pail into the top of the 55 gallon drum. Then out of the drum with a hand crank barrel pump into a 15 micron water separator canister filter then into a 10 mic canister filter and then into a 5 micron bag filter which will hang into the fuel tank or other storage tank. The fuel filters in the trucks don't go any lower than 6 micron so I don't see the point in going less than 5 micron. Will post some pics when I build it.
Brian

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

That hand crank pump will get old after awhile.

My harbor freight one works, but I run out of steam after a half hour of pumping.

I took the electric motor off the bandsaw I never use, and found a shaft driven twin screw oil pump off some random piece of equipment. Now I just need a sheeve made for the oil pump and I'll have a belt driven oil pump off an electric motor for moving oil around the shop.

 

[oddshot]

There are two tools I use.


A hydrometer, of the proper range, measures specific gravity.


A Ford Cup (or other) Viscometer measures viscosity.


The Ford Cup is a very simple device … it’s a cup that holds a specific amount of a liquid … there is a hole in the bottom of the cup that can be opened or closed. You pour in the liquid and then open the hole. You measure the amount of time that it takes the liquid to drain completely from the cup at a specific temperature.


You compare the time measurements of Straight Diesel, a blend you know that works, and your raw WMO fuel stock … then adjust your stock until it flows at the rate of either straight diesel … OR the fuel blend that you know works well in your truck.


In truth … I do believe that all you really need is the Ford Cup … this is a very inexpensive and easy to use device. It’s also VERY old. Vehicle operators in the earliest days of motoring would be VERY handy in the use of this tool.


Remember … there is MORE BTU’s of energy in WMO then there is diesel. Using the measurement of viscosity or specific gravity to adjust your WMO stocks … you should be able to get as much … if not more … mileage and power from WMO then you do straight diesel. Right now I am averaging about 10.5 MPG's with my blend.


If you combine a “crackle test” to check for water in your stocks (do a search!) … you will have a fuel that is perfectly safe as well.


BTW … I have found that there are other websites where people are doing very good research in learning to work with WMO as fuel for diesel engines.


You might consider going to either:


Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Alternative Fuels. SVO, Bio-Disel, and WMO. - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

oddshot

 

[mobileauto2000]

Keep it simple, Drain oil out of car. Pour oil through five micron sock filter hung over five gallon bucket. Fifteen minuets later dump five gallon bucket into Deuce fuel tank and enjoy.

If I collect large amounts of oil from a unknown source that may have water in it. I filter it the same way but then put it in a 55 gal. drum and let it settle. Then I pump it through a water blocker filter and into the truck. If the oil clearly has water in it I let it settle in 5 gal. buckets that have a small screw in the side right at the bottom. after a few hours in the sun I loosen the screw but do not remove it. the water will trickle out but the flow will stop when it gets to the oil. Then through the filter and into the 55 gal.drum.

If the oil has emulsified water in it I let the recyclers at the dump have it, although I have been known to boil it off over a hot plate in a big pot. Depends on how board I am at the time.

I have found no need to use 20 or 10 micron filters as I can process Hundreds of gallons through a Five micron filter.

My truck runs on 100% Used oil of all kinds with no mixing or blending. The Deuce is my only transportation. (If you live where it gets cold you may have to blend in the winter)

I also started off complicated with pumps and filters but found it was overkill. I almost never use the pump and water blocker filter.

I should also mention I run 6 micron secondary filters and have to change them about every 3000 miles. I can live with that.

One last thing. Get what ever License or permit required by you state for alternative fuel. I only pay around 25 dollar a quarter to the great state of Oregon in fuel tax. If you get your tanks dipped you will surely lose all that you have saved and then some.