My first heartbreak...

[a175]

with the cucv-

I'm driving back from Alexandria (about a 1.5 hour journey) and I reach over to close my vent window. It's been rough, so I have to twist pretty hard to make it turn.

CRAP.

It now hangs only by the top hinge. At least it will close and "lock". Driving with it open is a NO-GO, though.
I sort of rely heavily on the vent window to keep me from having a heat stroke, and I have far less than 100 posts.
If anyone has a lead on that part (driver side NEED, passenger side WANT), I would be grateful. I can't pay what LMC wants. Over $400???? REALLY???????

 

[Capriceii]

CUCV is based on the Chevy trucks of that era, replacement parts are all over the internet and they are not badly priced. I had to replace the vent window in my 86 blazer, it was a pain but I was happy to have it working again..

Good luck!

 

[Loco_Hosa]

I just recently had to replace the window on my 75 C20, and that also involves pulling the wing window out. (My family has always called it a wing window, is that not correct?) I can say the job is not too bad, but having a second pair of hands helps A LOT! The window track is part of it, so don't try to separate them.

The windows should all be the same on any C/k10, 20, or 30 from 1974-1988, and the blazers/suburbans stayed the same till 92. (Correct me if my years are incorrect) and are extremely plentiful. Go to a U-pull-it lot, that way you get to practice on their truck, and get both windows for only about $50. The whole job should take less than a day, including pulling the parts. If you go to the U-pull and are concerned about trying to install them yourself, then a body or upholstery shop would most likely be happy to install them for a modest fee, still keeping you way under your $400.

Best wishes!

 

[Whitey]

Same thing happened to me. I'm in the process of making a steel channel that the bottom of the vent window will sit. A rod is welded to the bottom of the channel to act as a pivot point. I got to the point of needing to weld the channel to the to the bottom of the vent window frame. The tricky part is doing a quick and precise weld without heating up or breaking the glass.

Loco_Hosa is correct in that any civi Chevy vent window of the period will fit. The only difference is that there might be chrome on parts that the military model obviously didn't include. Good luck man!

 

[oldmechanic]

I am near alexandria & have a pile of cucv parts ,pm me & I will give you my phone #

 

[K9Vic]

If you are in the Fort Worth area I have one for you that you can pickup, PM me.

 

[a175]

And that is why this place is so awesome!

 

[SPCHowe]

Before you pull out the wing/ vent window check your weatherstripping on the main window next to it. It might be dry and brittle so while you have everything apart you might think about replacing it, might need to replace it for the window to sit properly again.

 

[a175]

Good point. That would be a definite buzz kill.

 

[cjtroutt]

Thoes parts are not that bad if you rebuild what you have done alot of them.

 

[67_C-30]

I just recently had to replace the window on my 75 C20, and that also involves pulling the wing window out. (My family has always called it a wing window, is that not correct?) I can say the job is not too bad, but having a second pair of hands helps A LOT! The window track is part of it, so don't try to separate them.

The windows should all be the same on any C/k10, 20, or 30 from 1974-1988, and the blazers/suburbans stayed the same till 92. (Correct me if my years are incorrect) and are extremely plentiful. Go to a U-pull-it lot, that way you get to practice on their truck, and get both windows for only about $50. The whole job should take less than a day, including pulling the parts. If you go to the U-pull and are concerned about trying to install them yourself, then a body or upholstery shop would most likely be happy to install them for a modest fee, still keeping you way under your $400.

Best wishes!

'73 - '80 are the same, and '81 - '87 (up to '91 in Blazers) are the same. GM went with lighter glass in '81 when they changed the frontend and they WILL NOT interchange!

Ask me how I know!-lol

 

[stampy]

+1 to what they said...not the easiest thing to do just take your time. I have change out 3 of the 4 I need to do so far. LKQ or any other (pick a part) type place will probably have these parts. I got two and a center console for 40$

 

[mr.travo]

Who has had good luck replacing the window channel felt attached to the vent window? I have to do that, the vent window seal, and pieces between the locking mech and glass.

 

[rikinwyoming]

One thing I have seen on this site as a long time lurker and once in a while poster is the fact that it's like a family, people are always willing to help out,, it's awesome!

 

[SimonG]

I opened my passenger wing window for the first time the other day, a cigerette butt fell out hmmmm

 

[pgwaldner]

Pull a part generally has most parts to fit our trucks. They are all over the southeast US and are dirt cheap on parts.
Pull-A-Part Locations - Pull-A-Part

with the cucv-

I'm driving back from Alexandria (about a 1.5 hour journey) and I reach over to close my vent window. It's been rough, so I have to twist pretty hard to make it turn.

CRAP.

It now hangs only by the top hinge. At least it will close and "lock". Driving with it open is a NO-GO, though.
I sort of rely heavily on the vent window to keep me from having a heat stroke, and I have far less than 100 posts.
If anyone has a lead on that part (driver side NEED, passenger side WANT), I would be grateful. I can't pay what LMC wants. Over $400???? REALLY???????

 

[mistaken1]

Who has had good luck replacing the window channel felt attached to the vent window? I have to do that, the vent window seal, and pieces between the locking mech and glass.

The replacement felt channels I ordered were one piece from the back channel bracket up and around the door and back down the vent window assembly channel. The rubber on my vent windows was new from the MONG.

For the felt channel I removed the vent assembly from the door completely and removed the old felt channel back to the rear channel bracket and cut the old felt channel (left the glass in the back channel).

I installed the new felt channel in the vent assembly and installed the vent assembly snug but not tight in the door (holding the front of the glass in place).

I ran the felt channel up and over the door and then completely removed the rear channel bracket (with the piece of old felt channel still in it). I installed the new felt channel in the rear bracket (which I did while holding the bracket free inside the door) and reinstalled the rear bracket snug but not tight.

I then worked the window up and down letting it adjust the vent assembly and rear channel brackets until the window operated easily (which it did not do before it needed a helping hand). Then I tightened up the mounting bolts for both channels and made sure the window still operated correctly.

While I had the vent assemblies and rear channels out I sprayed all the rusty areas with rust converter.

My drivers vent lock had the pin coming out so I disassembled and cleaned it and reinstalled. They both need new hardware (plastic washers mostly) but they still function so I have not spent the money (outrageous amount) for new lock kits.

There is a roll pin on the handle that needs gently driven out and then they come apart.

 

[islandguydon]

If you are in the Fort Worth area I have one for you that you can pickup, PM me.

Thats what I am talking about, There are some good guys here on SS.

 

[a175]

A semi local board member had one. Also picked up a sliding rear window from him. That made a huge difference with the heat.

 

[Whitey]

Who has had good luck replacing the window channel felt attached to the vent window? I have to do that, the vent window seal, and pieces between the locking mech and glass.

I posted earlier on the tread and I ended up putting in a replacement vent assembly (used) instead of fabricating a new lower hinge like I planned. However, the window channel felt was shot. I ended up putting a good used piece from another CUCV and trimmed the rotten sections off and reattached the upper clip. It's working for now.

I then ordered from Classic Parts instead of LMC because they had a complete window rubber/felt kit. In the end it works out better for me cuz I need a left side for one truck and a right for another. The felt is probally the easiest thing to do on the whole project.

Best of luck!

-Whitey