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M35A3 Owners unite

rossbart

Member
69
34
18
Location
Waurika, Oklahoma
Just Purchased my first M35A3

Have an M35A2, M109A2, M49A2C and two M817 Dump Trucks and the little Universal Carrier (mini-tank on my avatar). But, just landed my first M35A3 at Fort Hood. Link below:

2320 - Trucks & Truck Tractors, Wheeled at Government Liquidation

I'm waiting for EUC clearance but hoping to be able to retrieve within the next few weeks. I bought it sight unseen. But, it does appear to be complete, straight, low mileage and hours and is a winch truck. Hopefully it will be fully functional and worth more than the $5,000 I paid. It's close enough that I can go pick it up myself and trailer it home so that was worth a fair bit from a trucking standpoint.

I'm trying to get the manual, filters, lube, etc. lined out so I can give it a good basic servicing when I get it. I ordered the engine oil, tranny, fuel and winch oil filters along with a new air filter from Erics. I held off ordering anything CTIS related until I can check it out and see if it's salvageable or will just need to be deactivated. Apparently some CTIS's are good and some near impossible. Don't know which one I'll get but with my luck --- well, you get the idea.

Have two questions at this point:

1) Seems that most posts relating to transmission fluid are leaning toward Dextron III. Is that correct? Is there a particular brand that is recommended. Also, although I did order the external transmission filter, I did not order the internal filter. If I'm going to change it from 15w40 army lube do I need to change the internal filter as well. Bear in mind, truck only has 3,100 miles.

2) Anyone know where I can buy the rifle rack kit for this truck? Would really like to add that.

I'm sure I'll have some more questions and comments once I get it picked up and give it a good shakedown.

Thanks,
Ross
 

RealCavDog

New member
579
12
0
Location
Joplin, Missouri
Have an M35A2, M109A2, M49A2C and two M817 Dump Trucks and the little Universal Carrier (mini-tank on my avatar). But, just landed my first M35A3 at Fort Hood. Link below:

2320 - Trucks & Truck Tractors, Wheeled at Government Liquidation

I'm waiting for EUC clearance but hoping to be able to retrieve within the next few weeks. I bought it sight unseen. But, it does appear to be complete, straight, low mileage and hours and is a winch truck. Hopefully it will be fully functional and worth more than the $5,000 I paid. It's close enough that I can go pick it up myself and trailer it home so that was worth a fair bit from a trucking standpoint.

I'm trying to get the manual, filters, lube, etc. lined out so I can give it a good basic servicing when I get it. I ordered the engine oil, tranny, fuel and winch oil filters along with a new air filter from Erics. I held off ordering anything CTIS related until I can check it out and see if it's salvageable or will just need to be deactivated. Apparently some CTIS's are good and some near impossible. Don't know which one I'll get but with my luck --- well, you get the idea.

Have two questions at this point:

1) Seems that most posts relating to transmission fluid are leaning toward Dextron III. Is that correct? Is there a particular brand that is recommended. Also, although I did order the external transmission filter, I did not order the internal filter. If I'm going to change it from 15w40 army lube do I need to change the internal filter as well. Bear in mind, truck only has 3,100 miles.

2) Anyone know where I can buy the rifle rack kit for this truck? Would really like to add that.

I'm sure I'll have some more questions and comments once I get it picked up and give it a good shakedown.

Thanks,
Ross
Ross, I am off to work, so don't have time to find it, but there is a thread covering in great detail, a service bulletin from Allison stating that Dexron III should be discontinued, and a fluid that I believe is called "Transsyn" ?, or something similar !

When I called the local Allison dealer, they and other truck shops carry it, but I have yet to do it as I am fixing a rear hub seal first !

Many have used Dexron with no issues, but thought I should at least mention it ! That will be my choice to do next, so will be looking it up later !

Good luck, Jay
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Rossbart,
The three choices for the transmission are:
1. Motor oil - same as the Army used. Not the best choice in my opinion.
2. TranSynd by Castrol. Excellent fluid but very very expensive.
3. Dexron III equivalent.

I switched to Dexron III. Do not use any other Dexron as they are not competible with the seals in your Allison transmission. The confusion with Dexron III is that the Dexron III standard no longer exists. That is why if you purchase a new can of Dexron III it doesn't actually state Dexron III. It will state "for use in transmissions that call for Dexron III". I purchased my Dexron III equivalent at NAPA, which is made by Valvoline/Ashland Oil. Also, I contacted Allison Corporation, not a dealer, but the manufacturer, and talked to an engineer. He highly recommended changing to Dexron III or TranSynd, but he told me the only advantage to TranSynd over Dexron III is that the interval for fluid changes is extended. Most people would never put enough miles on an A3 for this to matter. The reason Allison doesn't list Dexron III for this transmission anymore is that it is no longer covered by the GM standard.

Please note that neither TranSynd or Dexron III is compatible with motor oil, or each other, so when using the drain and fill method, use multiple drain and fills, driving 5 or so miles between each drain and fill to make sure you get it thoroughly mixed and warm. I changed the internal and external filters after my next to last drain and fill.

The performance improvement after converting to Dexron III was amazing. Much smoother shifts, etc. Good luck with your new truck.
 

CanonNinja

New member
778
7
0
Location
Houston, Tx
the rifle rack is the same as the A2s, you just end up partially obscuring your view of the transmission temp gauge, or you install it like a HMMWV, and one rifle on each side, standing straight up
 

rossbart

Member
69
34
18
Location
Waurika, Oklahoma
Thanks everyone for the help and advise. I'm scheduled to pickup the new A3 next Thursday morning. I already have all of the filters, RotellaT 15w40 for the engine and winch, 5 gallons of Transhyd for the tranny and a new double rifle kit waiting for her when she gets home.

I guess I'll wait until I can size up the situation with the condition of the CTIS before I'll know if I'll need to service the air dryer & heater, etc. and/or need to replace any o-rings or seals or just deactivate it. I hope it's in serviceable shape because that does sound like an (albeit maintenance intensive) nice feature for off-road duty.

Will post some pics in about a week when I have it home.

Thanks,
Ross
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Forget the CTIS. Mine works, but it limits you to 45 PSI for the highway, which is way too low. I run 55 - 60 PSI in the tires and the truck runs much better and the A3 death wobble is reduced. The tires are rated to 80 PSI, but the two-part wheels are red-lined at 60 PSI so I never exceed 60. When I'm offroad, I still use the 55 - 60 PSI.
 

BadMastard

New member
392
5
0
Location
Duvall, Wa.
Heard a rumor ctis can be programmed to another psi. I would really like that! One small benefit to the ctis is that it seems to be a good visible indicator when gear oil is in the valves that it's time to change your seals! But so far it's been little more than inconvienant to me.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
as far as I know you can send in your controller to CM and they will reprogram it.
I know at least one person has had CM reprogram their controller to a higher PSI for highway. However, after talking with an engineer at CM and also someone that had connections at AM General, I decided not to go this route. Apparently, AM General and the Army realized that the weak point in the CTIS system on A3s are the hub seals. These fail at periodic intervals using 45 PSI. However, at pressures higher than 45 PSI, the seals fail much more frequently. I have no presonal experience with this, but this is what I have heard. I just leave my working CTIS turned off and manually inflate to 55 - 60 PSI.
 

jaymcb

Active member
as regards the CTIS. How do you know it's 'off' if the display is screwed up? Al I get from mine is a solid line of black squares in the CTIS LCD display. The idea of buying a head for a grand with no guarantee on e-pay is not palatable diagnostic.
 

mktopside

Banned
467
6
0
Location
Gainesville, Va
as regards the CTIS. How do you know it's 'off' if the display is screwed up? Al I get from mine is a solid line of black squares in the CTIS LCD display. The idea of buying a head for a grand with no guarantee on e-pay is not palatable diagnostic.

Keep looking around, I've seen them go for as cheap as $50 on eBay before.
 

BadMastard

New member
392
5
0
Location
Duvall, Wa.
And Jaymb, you can also call CM and see if they can rebuild it for you. If you don't find one here at a good price. After all, it's not working now, you might as well send it in.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
an excellent point. I'd PM'd the CM account here and emailed the contact person for CM Automotive, and haven't heard back. That was weeks ago.
The CM contact here on SS is no longer with CM. If you want to contact CM, you need to call them. I wouldn't waste the time or money with CM on a rebuild. I have seen the CTIS control units being given away free in the past by people removing the CTIS. Also, many being sold for very low prices.
 

mktopside

Banned
467
6
0
Location
Gainesville, Va
You might see them for free, but e-pay wants 999, and the only member here has offered one for not much less than that
Just keep looking, one will show up cheap. The system looks cooler than it actually is, it certainly isn't useful for anything other that dropping tire pressure, it's 10x faster to just air the tires up with a chuck. It's not a bad system, I just wouldn't put too much focus on it unless everything else on the truck was perfect.
 
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