ODdave
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ditto, I dont like it. Give a different style a shot.
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... Also, at the bottom of my raise hitch adapter, I put some clevises on there to run the saftey chains to. No more worrys about the chains being too short. Maybe this might help.
I like that idea, but where I live (PA/NJ state line) there is a trailer task force that watches for stuff like that and it's illegal here. Chains need to be attached to a secondary mounting point, and I understand the reasoning. Yes we have a full-time task force to pull over the landscapers and roofers to check their trailer safety. Another great way to spend tax money. But hey, keeps that huge number of runaway trailer accidents down! Morons.I put some clevises on there to run the saftey chains to. No more worrys about the chains being too short. Maybe this might help.
Do you mean different brand? I don't know of any different style of riser plate out there. Are there any?ditto, I dont like it. Give a different style a shot.
Here's a few pics of my setup for my M101A3. I have the high rise adapter from Northern Tool (which is a solid shank). I don't remember what pintle I bought, but I think it was the 8-ton version.
Also, since the high rise adapter sticks out further from the hitch, the safety chains no longer reach the tow vehicle. So, I'm using shackles (or is there preferred nomenclature clevis?).
I'll attach a few pics of my setup. Seems to be working for me now. Also, I don't use the trailer often, maybe 3 or 4 times a year at most.
There's room for them to cross.Chains should be crossed. You might need to add another shackle.
This, so you tongue doesn't did into the road.Chains should be crossed to catch the tongue if the hitch should fail.
Well I pay taxes for the roads, so they can fix them if I gouge them up.This, so you tongue doesn't did into the road.
Surprised you need such a tall hitch with an H-1.
Hey guys, I have an M101A2 on the way. GREAT forum you have here.I have the high rise adapter from Northern Tool (which is a solid shank).
I think the angle they took their picture from and the angle I took mine from, it does look a little different with respect to the angled support piece. However, the rise (or lower) looks to be the same, 7 pairs of holes. They also could have beefed it up since that picture on their website was taken.Hey guys, I have an M101A2 on the way. GREAT forum you have here.
Fudge, is THIS the high rise adapter you got from NT? Ultra-Tow Pintle Receiver Adapter — 12in.L x 2in. Square Shank | Hitch Adapters | Northern Tool + Equipment
It looks different.
Thanks for the quick reply.I think the angle they took their picture from and the angle I took mine from, it does look a little different with respect to the angled support piece. However, the rise (or lower) looks to be the same, 7 pairs of holes. They also could have beefed it up since that picture on their website was taken.
I would venture to guess that the link you posted is the same one I have though. I'd double check for you, but my high rise is with my trailer--all in a storage unit about 25-30 minutes away from me. Not sure the next time I'll swing out that way, but I can do it sometime within the next two weeks probably.
Do you know for sure how high you need to raise (or lower) a pintle?
Keep in mind the M101A2's lunette is not quite as high as an M101A3, at least from what I remember with the M101A2 that I used to own. Obviously, checking the height of the lunette while the trailer sits level is what you need to do.
I'd be a little cautious on that one. It weighs 13 lbs, seems the shank is not solid. It's hollowed out for the cushioning device.Thanks for the quick reply.
I only need about 5.5" of rise. I ended-up going with this: Convert-A-Ball Cushioned, Adjustable Pintle Mounting Bar for 2" Hitches - 10 Holes - 10,000 lbs Convert-A-Ball Ball Mounts AMPC3
Its a cushioned hitch, and hopefully will absorb some shock that my truck and its drivetrain would otherwise see.
No, I think your point is well-taken. I share a bit of your concern. However, I think it will be OK for a couple of reasons: a) the shank is very short, and b) the shock absorbing nature of the shank should limit the loads placed on it.I'd be a little cautious on that one. It weighs 13 lbs, seems the shank is not solid. It's hollowed out for the cushioning device.
The model that Northern Tool sells features a solid shank, and overall weight is 24 lbs.
I'm definitely no expert on this stuff, just an observation.
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