Armor Plate Thickness

[BlondeGuy]

Oh yeah. Forgot to attach picture

 

[quickfarms]

how about fiberglass

 

[WarrenD]

how about fiberglass

I've looked into it a little bit, it's pricey in the big sheets and I have some questions regarding the finish on the surfaces. Samples I've seen aren't as smooth as a steel surface and with prices approaching aluminum, it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense. It might be easier to work with (and maybe not). Even in thick sheets, I think there might be more flex than desirable.

 

[WarrenD]

My Daughter just got her first MV, a m37 and I plan on talking her into making a Gun Truck. I know MadDawg just cut some armor panels, but would anyone know the Dimensions for the metal plates needed?

Maddawg might have something he calcualted, but it would be specific to his project. Looking at the available photos, it appears to me that the M37 box armor varied....a lot. First you have the issue of long box vs short box. Then the height seems different on almost every one. Add to that the differences in the way the front and rear panels were treated and you conclude that each one was slightly different (except when talking about the same truck with different names).

You need to pick which truck you are going to do, then spend some time with any available photos and start calculating.

 

[L1A1]

Although it would be really expensive, how about plexiglass/lexan/poly carbonate stuff? You could make the "visable gun truck" -an educational tool for all those who've ever wondered what was inside one of those vehicles......
Matt

 

[WarrenD]

I've looked into Lexan/polycarbonate as well. Prices are actually a little better than the fiberglas, but I'm not sure how it would hold paint. Wouldn't want to do a "transparent" gun box, some things are better left out of sight! opcorn:

 

[L1A1]

I've looked into Lexan/polycarbonate as well. Prices are actually a little better than the fiberglas, but I'm not sure how it would hold paint. Wouldn't want to do a "transparent" gun box, some things are better left out of sight! opcorn:

Really? I would have thought that stuff (in the thickness you'd need) would have been really expensive. As for getting paint to stick, guess you could rough up the surface a bit with sand paper or media blast it.


I don't know, the "visable gun box" could take it's place along with the visable V8 engine & visable human (models)

Matt

 

[BlondeGuy]

For price, I wanna go with the short box. The truck has a hard top so with that, I may be too limited on which one to make a replica of. Also I'm afraid of unknowingly copying someone else, so it may just be a tribute tribute truck.

 

[WarrenD]

I haven't ever seen a photo of a Vietnam M37 GT with a hard top. There have been threads here discussing who is making what. When it comes to short box trucks, there were only a few to begin with and the easy ones have already been done/reserved.

 

[jamesfrom180]

I would think the most economical material would be steel over ply backed with steel. Think sandwich or clad board. It would be alot of fabrication but frame with 0.5" tube and weld sheet metal to it then fill in voids and weld the back panel would make suitable armor substitutes. Benefit would be weigh savings, appropriate surface finish, and solid sound. Con might just be flexing depending on how well you frame your panels. opcorn:

 

[BlondeGuy]

Yeah. That's what I thought Warren, so if she wants to do it, she can't really make a replica of one and it'll have to be an original.

 

[L1A1]

I haven't ever seen a photo of a Vietnam M37 GT with a hard top. There have been threads here discussing who is making what. When it comes to short box trucks, there were only a few to begin with and the easy ones have already been done/reserved.

Find this interesting. Are you saying that if I want to build a copy of "OTTO" for example and there's another guy out there already building a replica of OTTO, I can't build my "OTTO"? Is there a governing body on guntruck building or does to many OTTOs spoil a rally? I'm curious to know, that's all.

BlondeGuy
Those hard tops are removable. If you (or She) really have your hearts set on building an accurate replica, you can always go with a soft top. Places like MidWest Military sell the top bows & other brackets for the rag top. You could even sell the hard top to off set the cost of buying what you need for the rag top.
Matt

 

[BlondeGuy]

Thanks Matt

I wanna make this project easy and fun for her. She's just 19 and I am just glad she has an interest. We will research together and see where it leads us.

As for materials, the sandwich plywood between two thinner sheets of metal sounds easiest especially if you aren't any good with a welder. My nephew has a roofing company and could probably get scraps easily.

 

[WarrenD]

Find this interesting. Are you saying that if I want to build a copy of "OTTO" for example and there's another guy out there already building a replica of OTTO, I can't build my "OTTO"? Is there a governing body on guntruck building or does to many OTTOs spoil a rally? I'm curious to know, that's all.
Matt

Having been associated with the WW2 Warbird community for many years, my thoughts are a carry over from there. It is not kosher to do a plane that someone else has done. I feel that if someone has gone thru the research, time and expense to do a particular replica that it is a sign of respect to allow them to have it exclusively to themselves. Granted, there are far more bombers and fighters to choose from than 3 dozen or so M37 GTs, but that's my take on it. In doing research for mine, I was told by at least one owner that I could also do a replica of the truck he was doing and he wished me well (added that he hoped mine came out better!). I won't do a truck that someone else has done/is doing and I know many others feel the same way. Others feel that the more the merrier, others seem to think it's ok as long as they aren't in the same area of the country.
There is no formal body and you certainly can do what ever you like with your truck, just be aware that somewhere along the line someone may have a problem with you if you knowingly do one that's already been done. The hard part is that some folks say they will do a particular truck and never follow through, depriving someone else.
Anyway, you asked and that's my

 

[F18hornetM]

Maybe a silly idea and maybe already mentioned , but what about sheet metal covered plywood?? Fairly inexpensive and fairly light. With a sheet metal brake, can easly get the sheet to fit around the edges so it would look and feel almost real. As far as the centers of the sheetmetal, adhesive to the ply wood would prevent any movement of the center..Just an idea.

 

[barrygar8]

my take on this no one can tell you how the truck was made but the people that bilt it or the people that used it to my thinking i didn,t take a original name out of respect for the people that lived and died on these trucks. i used .312 steel and used what i could find at shows you know why thay went to 5 ton trucks when you start up small hills in my truck with no amno you get to down shift a bunch.

 

[WarrenD]

The biggest thing that bothers me about the thin metal covered plywood is how difficult it might be to keep the metal smooth and even. It would have to be glued carefully and the glue would need to be spread thin and even. The glue would also need to bond metal to wood and be somewhat heat and moisture proof. I may end up buying small bits of different things and seeing which will work best.

 

[jamesfrom180]

WarrenD: Contact cement used for counter tops would be my first step.

You will also find that plywood alone probably will flex too much you will need in my opinion to build an internal frame with 1" angle and fill with ply. I would start by building a simple box frame and adding diagonals to your framing. Welding is not difficult to learn. I would almost bet your daughter can pick it up in 1 hr. My first welder was a wire-feed flux core and was under $100 bucks and would be more than enough to build the framing. There are plenty of body panel glues out now that will bond the sheet metal to the framing and the contact cement will ensure a good overall bonding. Start small and keep us informed if you guys go for it.

 

[WarrenD]

WarrenD: Contact cement used for counter tops would be my first step.

You will also find that plywood alone probably will flex too much you will need in my opinion to build an internal frame with 1" angle and fill with ply. I would start by building a simple box frame and adding diagonals to your framing. Welding is not difficult to learn. I would almost bet your daughter can pick it up in 1 hr. My first welder was a wire-feed flux core and was under $100 bucks and would be more than enough to build the framing. There are plenty of body panel glues out now that will bond the sheet metal to the framing and the contact cement will ensure a good overall bonding. Start small and keep us informed if you guys go for it.

Problem with the frame idea is the thickness. It should be 1/4" or 3/8" anything thicker and the M37 would break. (Sounds like they broke often enough with 3/8"). Composite might be the answer, rigid and lightweight but the cost would be a killer!!

 

[jamesfrom180]

I would assume you are thinking that 3/8" ply is your target thickness. Using a good plywood and maybe bolting a framework to the inside of the box I would think you could keep it pretty rigid. A 1x1 L channel would not be too intrusive.