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mounting 1600R20 tires on two piece rims

Vintage iron

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Falmouth Ma.
I have started this thread to show how I mounted my Super Singles. I have included some tips that I think will help others mount their tires. I haven't numbered the pictures but put them in order and included as many as I could.

I bought 8 two piece 5 ton rims and 8 1600R20 new Michelin XZL's from Kublos Surplus. I had the rims sandblasted, epoxy primed and painted Satin black. While I was at Kublos I picked up 8 new O rings for the rims too.

A local shop did the rims for me. I left the wheel half nuts at the end of the threads to protect the ends of the studs during the blasting prcedure and the blaster taped off the rest of the threads before paint. So the rims are better than new.

This is how I put my wheels together. First I clean out the inside of the tire of debris and wash the tire bead surfaces. I then put blue tire goo on the tire beads inside and out. I then clean the rubber bead locks and sit on them to flatten it out. I use a short bungee cord to hold it in a bean shape. The tire stands up pretty good on it's own. I use a vise quick grip to spread the beads apart and I stuff the flattened bead lock in. Put you foot inside the lower section of the bead lock and kick it down into the tire. Once it is in, remove the bungee cord, hold the tire and put a 3 foot tire spoon through the bead lock center and pull. This will twist it into the right orientation. I use the quick grip to push the bead lock around in the tire and use the tire spoons to help get it positioned and round again. Once the bead lock is round and in place. I position the vent hole down and added half a gallon of 50/50 antifreeze for balance. Don't worry it doesn't come out during mounting. The hard part is done.

Now! I had my rims blasted and painted so this part is easy. If you didn't you should make sure that you bead areas, O ring area and wheel half threads are clean. Clean bead and O ring seats will help keep leaks from happening. New O rings too! lay the tire on blocks of wood, so the rim has a place to fall in to. Center the bead lock and blue tire goo the bead area and the bead lock. I put a yellow chalk line to locate the channel for the valve stem. Make sure the your valve stem is fully seated and tight. Now place the rim in the tire. If you put it in straight it should go right in. Once it is in most of the way I stand in it and use the spoon to help the valve stem butt slide through the bead into the channel and jump on it to seat it. Once it is seated stand the tire up, spin it around, remove the blocks and put a 5 gallon bucket down with the lid on. Lay the tire rim side down, on top of the bucket, this is where the cleaning comes into play. If you have kept the area and surfaces clean, you won't need to worry about dirt in your O ring seat, but check for dirt or foreign objects. Put your O ring in, center your bead lock, blue goo and plenty of anti seize on the wheel half studs. Put the second section into the tire and make sure it is lined up good. DON'T FORGET THE VALVE STEM! Use a rubber mallet to bump the rim half down evenly. Put your nuts on and tighten a little at a time. I start off going back and forth like tightening lug nuts and then when it gets tough I do short bursts with the impact gun and go around and around like a clock till they are all tight. New O rings will seat better and stay tight to the rims.

They look great all mounted up. I highly recommend having a friend help. I did these by myself and IT WAS LIKE SUMO WRESTLING FOR HOURS! I can mount one a hour by myself. The quick grip, 3' tire spoons and the blue tire goo make things so much easier. Hope this helps someone
 

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R Racing

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Great Information !! I'm hoping to get 7 of the 8 1600s I bought on Hemmit rims next week and on the m920 . I purchased 8 95 % tires ( thats how they had advertised them on there site) and got 7 good 1s and 1 thats dry rotted and craked all over its about 50%. I haven't heard back from the tire company yet weather there going to make good on replacing that 1 ( im guessing they didn't inspect all 8 before shipping. And I didn't inspect them since they were wrapped up, til we got the pallets to the tire shop and unwrapped them) . I really want to get these on the truck before the snow hits !
 

eldgenb

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Spokane WA
Great Information !! I'm hoping to get 7 of the 8 1600s I bought on Hemmit rims next week and on the m920 . I purchased 8 95 % tires ( thats how they had advertised them on there site) and got 7 good 1s and 1 thats dry rotted and craked all over its about 50%. I haven't heard back from the tire company yet weather there going to make good on replacing that 1 ( im guessing they didn't inspect all 8 before shipping. And I didn't inspect them since they were wrapped up, til we got the pallets to the tire shop and unwrapped them) . I really want to get these on the truck before the snow hits !

I would grind down the valve stem before you mount them in the wheel, or at a minimum take them back out of the wheel to do it, I ground one down while it was mounted in the wheel and the heat ate the oring that seals it to the wheel, I have a pic of my ground down valve stem if you need it.
 

Vintage iron

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I don't understand! who needs to grind down their valve stem? I am mounting combat wheels on a 5 ton. The valve stem should clear fine. Do you have a picture and more info. for clarification?

Only thing I am worried about is the 1600's rubbing on tight corners.
 

simp5782

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This is how I did mine. I attached a picture of how I installed the beadlock inserts. I prelubed everything prior to the video. I used windex as the lube. I would have done the full install but my air compressor is as slow as my dead grandmother.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfwUEzjBPLo&feature=youtu.be[/media]
 

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Vintage iron

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The bead lock for 1400's and 1600's is the same. You can drive on a flat tire with bead locks in place. I don't think 1600's are skinnier than 1400's!
 

simp5782

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Yea the 14.00s are 14.7" wide and the 16.00s are 16" wide. I used my bead locks from the 14.00s i bought with the wheels on my 16.00s. no problems.
 

simp5782

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Got 4 of them mounted on the truck today. Doesnt look to bad if i may say so myself. Just needs a paint job. Man they were fun to put on by myself! I gotta get 2 more wheels, and cut off my mud flap brackets before I can put the rear together. The rear view was taken before i tightened the lugs down so it looks crooked.
 

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Vintage iron

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Falmouth Ma.
mounting these tires is no small feat! Each one is like a wrestling match with a Sumo Wrestler. Welcome to the 1600's club. Two more and you will be a full badged member! :beer:
 

simp5782

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Thanks.They werent to bad. the hardest part was moving them from where I mounted them to the truck. They kept wanting to go down hill. the backs were easy as could be. one pop and they were on. the front yeah were a different story. Used a 2x4 to get leverage on it and get it up onto the hub. Its gotta get an engine before it can go for a test drive tho! Noone better make fun of my log jack stands! they seem to work alot better than my 12ton stands on soft ground.
 
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Bolkbich

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14.00's on 5 ton rims are much lighter than 16.00's on hemmet rims. 14's or 16's , mount 6 and put them on the truck and im ready for the couch.
 

dozer1

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Sargeant, Minnesota
I don't understand! who needs to grind down their valve stem? I am mounting combat wheels on a 5 ton. The valve stem should clear fine. Do you have a picture and more info. for clarification?

Only thing I am worried about is the 1600's rubbing on tight corners.[/QUOTE]



Sooooooooooo does that happen?
 

dozer1

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Another question is, is there any reason that the run flats need to be installed? I can understand why you would want them in there in a combat situation, but in the civy world, you just need to change the tire when you have a flat.
 

simp5782

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Another question is, is there any reason that the run flats need to be installed? I can understand why you would want them in there in a combat situation, but in the civy world, you just need to change the tire when you have a flat.

You do not have to run the inserts. They will bead just fine and hold air. Heck I think even with 16.00s and you run it flat you might not even know even without the insert!

The inserts could come in handy I guess if you are on the road to limp it someplace, and not cause it to come off the rim. The other problem is that some folks don't have the onboard air setup with enough capacity to run a big 1" gun.

As far as putting them on the truck, I found that my straight bar with the spike on one end and the pry bar on the other works great. Put the rear tire up next to the hub. put the spike end through the highest lug hole and pop it up on the hub. Do the same with the fronts but it can be tricky
I am going to have my L shape 105gal tank on the back of the truck with my 21 gallon (plug in) compressor mounted to it with another 10 gallon tank next to it. Then my square toolbox mounted next to it. I thought bout plugging the truck tanks into the plug in compressor with a shut off valve then pluming in the 10 gallon tank. That way the truck running could fill the truck tanks, plus the 21 gallon compressor tank (when i open the valve) and the 10 gallon tank when I open the valve so I will have enough for emergencies on the highway. And then when I am someplace where there is a plugin available I can just use the plug in tank with the 10gallon tank so it wouldnt take near as long.
 
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