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I just completed this task. Keep in mind that I went to the school for the mechanically declined.
I repacked all my bearing and changed all my seals while doing it. Took me 2+ very long days. The hub flip would be quick but all the other stuff and working by myself in the open....
I also came up with a seal installer all from Lowes.
3" pipe is slightly too small for the job. A 3" pipe coupler is just right.
Add 18" - 24" of 3" pipe.
Add a cleanout trap fitting (the screw out type)
Add the fitting that screws into it since it is stronger than using just an end cap.
What was taking me a lot of time, energy, bending, twisting, tapping here, tapping there was now all done in just a matter of a minute or two. Just want to make sure the seal is flush on the inside once it is installed. Worked like a charm except I didn't get to the point of utter frustration until my 3rd axle.
Also have a piece of 2x4 that is sawed at a 20 degree angle at the bottom. This will allow you to use the brake pad as a leverage point to tap off the old inner seals.
A good impact wrench (thanks Heavysteven) and a torque wrench (again thanks Heavysteven) and a good floor jack (thanks JT) and you're in business.
Also I got a brand name USA made Timken 3994 bearing at Autozone for 19.99.
Before doing this, you probably also need to have additional wheel studs and lug nuts. I had two bad wheel studs on disassembly and I only had one lefty to put in. Truck is deadlined until I get 2 right ones.
So bottom line is 3 hrs if you know how to do it AND have all the right tools in the right place with no interruptions and you are just flipping the hubs and not doing anything else (but since you are there, you should service the entire hub).
I repacked all my bearing and changed all my seals while doing it. Took me 2+ very long days. The hub flip would be quick but all the other stuff and working by myself in the open....
I also came up with a seal installer all from Lowes.
3" pipe is slightly too small for the job. A 3" pipe coupler is just right.
Add 18" - 24" of 3" pipe.
Add a cleanout trap fitting (the screw out type)
Add the fitting that screws into it since it is stronger than using just an end cap.
What was taking me a lot of time, energy, bending, twisting, tapping here, tapping there was now all done in just a matter of a minute or two. Just want to make sure the seal is flush on the inside once it is installed. Worked like a charm except I didn't get to the point of utter frustration until my 3rd axle.
Also have a piece of 2x4 that is sawed at a 20 degree angle at the bottom. This will allow you to use the brake pad as a leverage point to tap off the old inner seals.
A good impact wrench (thanks Heavysteven) and a torque wrench (again thanks Heavysteven) and a good floor jack (thanks JT) and you're in business.
Also I got a brand name USA made Timken 3994 bearing at Autozone for 19.99.
Before doing this, you probably also need to have additional wheel studs and lug nuts. I had two bad wheel studs on disassembly and I only had one lefty to put in. Truck is deadlined until I get 2 right ones.
So bottom line is 3 hrs if you know how to do it AND have all the right tools in the right place with no interruptions and you are just flipping the hubs and not doing anything else (but since you are there, you should service the entire hub).
