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Just won an auction - M1088A1

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dwlindsey

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dwlindsey said:
OK, I've got the valve stems in my ebay cart. Where do I get the O-Rings and wheel half nuts?
Click to expand...
Are these the o-rings?
www.ebay.com

LMTV/FMTV Wheel O-Ring | eBay

New, not NOS, o-rings for the 20" bead lock style LMTV and FMTV rims. Our o-rings are made new for us and not left overs in a warehouse. Made from an arctic grade material so these will withstand cold and hot temp swings and not give out causing you a leak.
www.ebay.com
 
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dwlindsey

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R

Ronmar

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At the very least stem Oring seals, and wheel Orings. Expect every rubber seal on this truck is bad, and you will probably be mostly correct:)

you can get all the lift arch hucks with a cutoff wheel, I did:)

i chose rail on rail with captured “springs”(hydraulics) for my habitat and am re-purposing the upper frame rail into the floor structure for the habitat. I repurposed that arch to the back of the upper frame rail to extend the floor frame18” You can see it in this pic.

IMG_3984.jpeg
 

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dwlindsey

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Ronmar said:
you can get all the lift arch hucks with a cutoff wheel, I did:)
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. Now I've got an issue with cab tilt, I could use some advice. I backed it out of the garage today and pulled out the red pin in the cab lock manually. It was really stuck. I'll want to re-build that.

I got the cab raised and cleaned up the engine. The hydraulic pump is spewing oil, not a lot, but it is coming out around the shaft.

The cab lowered most of the way OK, but stopped about 6 inches above the closed point.

I haven't yet received the hydraulic oil the General recommended. Could I put some "ordinary" hydraulic fluid in? Would that help me get the cab down?

I'm going to delete that whole system, so I'll want a new hydraulic pump, either manual or electric.

How do I get the cab down all the way?

Dwight
 
Last edited:
AKPacker

AKPacker

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A lot of us use AW-32 hydraulic fluid from the auto parts store. The o-rings on my cab latch disintegrated soon after I got my truck and spewed clear fluid everywhere, so the original red fluid was replaced at some point. I replaced the o-rings and refilled with AW-32 and haven't had any issues.
 
R

Ronmar

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it takes hydraulic fluid to hold it up, and at only 6" up, it should come down all by itself via gravity, unless it has somehow tripped the safety check valve in the cab cylinder base. Did it appear to bounce when it locked up? This may have been possible if you were low on fluid and pumping air right at the top end of the last lift. This would still allow you to push it over the balance point as it doesn't take that much force at that point, but the air moving to the top of the vertical cylinder would be the last to come out as you lower the cab and might cause the safety to lock as it pushes back thru the system and allows rapid passage thru the restrictors in the control valve...

Shift the control to raise and try and raise the cab a little. Sending pressure back into the cylinder base port should reset the safety check, then try to lower it again. but if there is air in the cylinder base it may simply lockup again. If this happens another option may be to pump it up slightly again to release the check, and using a wrench very carefully loosen the hose end connected to the cylinder base port till it just starts to drip fluid and leave it alone and let the cab lower very slowly by itself. the goal here is that when it gets down to the air in the cylinder it will flow out thru the loosened fitting slow enough that it does not trip the safety and continue to lower all the way and push out all the air.

once you get the cab all the way down, and get more fluid, you will want to purge that lift line. set the cab control to lower and pump the lift piston to the fully retracted/down position to get all the air out of the base end of the cylinder. With the cylinder fully retracted, disconnect the hose at the cylinder base end port, select raise on the control valve and pump until you get fluid out the hose, then reconnect the hose. repeat the process at the cab latch hose end then re-attach. Top off the reservoirs and then raise the cab completely...

If you are going to replace it all anyway, you can put about any 10wt oil in it, I like AW-32 because it is available everywhere...
 
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GeneralDisorder

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If you're going to delete everything but the cab cylinder I would highly recommend getting the updated stronger cab cylinder for the add-on armor trucks since they are larger and you need the cab floor reinforcement kit that it comes with anyway since the cab floor is about as strong as wet tissue paper where the ram connects. Any additional weight like roof racks, etc is ill-advised. Even my truck with just the usual stuff you would carry in the cab and a HIMARS commanders hatch - already had to straighten my floor with a porta-power to get the new ram reinforcement plates installed.

Have to take precautions against too much flow and moving the cylinders too fast as that can cause the safety check valves to erroneously engage. Some outfitters delete them without considering the potential litigation they are inviting if someone should have a hydraulic line rupture and the cab comes crashing down like a guillotine.
 
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dwlindsey

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Ronmar said:
it takes hydraulic fluid to hold it up, and at only 6" up, it should come down all by itself via gravity, unless it has somehow tripped the safety check valve in the cab cylinder base. Did it appear to bounce when it locked up? This may have been possible if you were low on fluid and pumping air right at the top end of the last lift. This would still allow you to push it over the balance point as it doesn't take that much force at that point, but the air moving to the top of the vertical cylinder would be the last to come out as you lower the cab and might cause the safety to lock as it pushes back thru the system and allows rapid passage thru the restrictors in the control valve...

Shift the control to raise and try and raise the cab a little. Sending pressure back into the cylinder base port should reset the safety check, then try to lower it again. but if there is air in the cylinder base it may simply lockup again. If this happens another option may be to pump it up slightly again to release the check, and using a wrench very carefully loosen the hose end connected to the cylinder base port till it just starts to drip fluid and leave it alone and let the cab lower very slowly by itself. the goal here is that when it gets down to the air in the cylinder it will flow out thru the loosened fitting slow enough that it does not trip the safety and continue to lower all the way and push out all the air.

once you get the cab all the way down, and get more fluid, you will want to purge that lift line. set the cab control to lower and pump the lift piston to the fully retracted/down position to get all the air out of the base end of the cylinder. With the cylinder fully retracted, disconnect the hose at the cylinder base end port, select raise on the control valve and pump until you get fluid out the hose, then reconnect the hose. repeat the process at the cab latch hose end then re-attach. Top off the reservoirs and then raise the cab completely...

If you are going to replace it all anyway, you can put about any 10wt oil in it, I like AW-32 because it is available everywhere...
Click to expand...
The air operated pump is just spewing oil now. I did fill the upper reservoir. Right now I can't lift or lower the cab.
 
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dwlindsey

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Did it appear to bounce when it locked up?

I don't know. Didn't see that

might cause the safety to lock as it pushes back thru the system and allows rapid passage thru the restrictors in the control valve...

All new to me

Shift the control to raise and try and raise the cab a little.

The air operated pump just spews oil now, it won't raise the cab at all.

another option may be to pump it up slightly again to release the check,

Can't do that, it doesn't pump up

and using a wrench very carefully loosen the hose end

If I've identified the cab lift cylinder correctly, I don't see how to get a wrench on the hydraulic fitting on the bottom of the cylinder. Magic wrench?
 
D

dwlindsey

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
California
GeneralDisorder said:
If you're going to delete everything but the cab cylinder I would highly recommend getting the updated stronger cab cylinder for the add-on armor trucks since they are larger and you need the cab floor reinforcement kit that it comes with anyway since the cab floor is about as strong as wet tissue paper where the ram connects. Any additional weight like roof racks, etc is ill-advised. Even my truck with just the usual stuff you would carry in the cab and a HIMARS commanders hatch - already had to straighten my floor with a porta-power to get the new ram reinforcement plates installed.

Have to take precautions against too much flow and moving the cylinders too fast as that can cause the safety check valves to erroneously engage. Some outfitters delete them without considering the potential litigation they are inviting if someone should have a hydraulic line rupture and the cab comes crashing down like a guillotine.
Click to expand...
Where do I get the updated stronger cab cylinder?
 
R

Ronmar

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Port angeles wa
dwlindsey said:
Hand pump is not working
Click to expand...
Does it have fluid? Allen head Filler plug, outboard rear corner. They are pretty simple and quite robust, usually if they have fluid they work(trying to think if I have encountered anyone with a bad one, its usually something else)…

quick test, select suspension raise or lower(extend/compress). since those cylinders are pinned in the retracted position, the circuit should be dead headed, and moving the hand pump lever should go to high resistance almost immediately, especially if there is no air in it… any air pockets will take a pump or two to compress…
 
A

aw113sgte

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Ronmar said:
Does it have fluid? Allen head Filler plug, outboard rear corner. They are pretty simple and quite robust, usually if they have fluid they work(trying to think if I have encountered anyone with a bad one, its usually something else)…

quick test, select suspension raise or lower(extend/compress). since those cylinders are pinned in the retracted position, the circuit should be dead headed, and moving the hand pump lever should go to high resistance almost immediately, especially if there is no air in it… any air pockets will take a pump or two to compress…
Click to expand...
I have a 2007 and when I pulled my hand pump apart the seals were okay but the backing ring was in about 6 pieces and very brittle. Pump was still functional though.
 
R

Ronmar

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Location
Port angeles wa
And tha
aw113sgte said:
I have a 2007 and when I pulled my hand pump apart the seals were okay but the backing ring was in about 6 pieces and very brittle. Pump was still functional though.
Click to expand...
And that reservoir seal ring is important as the reservoir must be sealed enough to pull enough vacuum to draw make-up fluid from the main AOP reservoir…
 
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