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Will this work?
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Just won an auction - M1088A1
- Thread starter dwlindsey
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Expensive! I've used these guys for other aviation stuff:
pilotshq.com
Phillips 66 - X/C Red Spec Aviation Hydraulic Fluid | MIL-PRF-5606A
Phillips 66 - X/C Red Spec Aviation Hydraulic Fluid | MIL-PRF-5606A Features/Benefits Very high viscosity index for use over a wide temperature range Outstanding low-temperature properties Excellent wear protection Resists deposit formation and viscosity increase due to oxidation Protects...
pilotshq.com
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I do have to pump some as the cab lowers, else it will overflow. I stop pumping when latch is a couple inches from touching. Method has been working great for about 20 cab raises so far.Ok, well the stock hand pump is 4x4x3.5 outer dimensions, but it is perhaps 1/8” wall thickness and radiused corners a square 3.75x3.75x3.25 is 45.7 cu/in minus ~2.5” for the radiused corners leaves ~43cu/in when full… and the fluid draw cannot draw every drop of that fluid so there will always be a little unusable in the reservoir of any system, and I did not consider any plumbing protruding into the reservoir to pickup fluid… so perhaps somewhere in the 42cu/in of fluid available…
the cylinder is 2”X ~14” stroke so 3.14sq/in X 14 = ~44cu/in required. Plus that absorbed by the cab latch piston when pressurizing the system, and I have never calculated that. Probably not much more than a cu/in though… so y0u have ~42 available but you need ~45?
Tire lift isn’t an issue because it is the rod end with far less volume Required. But the cab lift is just over available if everything is perfect….
the only way I see this working is if your rod end seals, control valve seals and pump piston rod seals are perfectly tight enough that the rod end of the piston is able to suck enough fluid back into the rod end of the cab cylinder when lowering to provide the makeup fluid to just get your cab raised. Most hydraulic valves, rod ends and hand pump shafts are designed to hold pressure in and do not withstand vacuum very well and will suck air when the system goes under vacuum like the rod end of the circuit does when lowering the cab via gravity… you will know when yours starts to do this as you will get the rod end fluid back after the lift because it is pushed, but it will be unable to suck it back when you lower, so that fluid + the fluid returning from the cylinder base and latch will start to overflow at the reservoir. Now that this fluid is gone, you will not have enough to reach orbit as the rod end didn’t draw that fluid back for the next lift…
helped someone troubleshoot a problem like this and the math didn’t work then eitherwe came to the conclusion that the stock reservoir was just a hair too small for reliable operation when you consider no vacuum fluid movement which is normal. I think I suggested to him to screw a hose barb into the vent port and run it to a secondary reservoir to give enough volume to work reliably without relying on vacuum/seals in the pressure side of the system…
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Hydraulic hose caps? I've now got some of the bolts loose that hold the spare tire mechanism and it seems I need to remove some hydraulic hoses. As I go along, I probably need to cap the hoses temporarily and then as things are revealed, plug some ports on the cab hydraulic pump. Could somone point me to the right caps and plugs for this?
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Jack points? I'm going to jack up the truck now to change the right front tire. What are the correct and approved places to put the jack and the jack stands while changing a tire?
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4an caps/plugs. Although if you take the adapters out I think you can use 1/4npt.
Ronmar
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The hose fittings are JIC-4. Both the cylinders and the manifold ports use SAE-4 ports. I wouldn’t really worry about plugging anything until you are actually going to delete part of the system…
JIC 4 Male Plug 2408-4 | No Brand Name | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com
JIC 4 Male Plug 2408-4, No Brand Name, JIC 4 PLUG, JIC 4 Male Plug SPECIFICATIONS Condition Brand New End 12408-4,
www.surpluscenter.com
SAE 4 Male Plug 6408-4 | SAE Plugs | Plugs & Caps | Hydraulic Adapters & Fittings | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
SAE 4 Male Plug 6408-4, SAE Plugs, SAE 4 PLUG, SAE 4 Male Plug SPECIFICATIONS Condition Brand New End 1 Type6408-4,
www.surpluscenter.com
Ronmar
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Yep, you are using the cab cylinder rod end as auxiliary storage. If you connect a hose barb and hose where the vent port is, and run that into another small vented container all the way to the bottom, it will draw fluid from and store excess fluid in that aux container automatically, the same as it does from the AOP reservoir via the hand-pump return line in the normal configuration… that way you would not have to pump while lowering, or overflow if you or someone else forgets to do so…
you could also connect the second small reservoir to the AOP return port on the control valve manifold and cap the hand pump fill port. The check-valves in the control valve steer return fluid to the hand pump first to keep it full, and allow the HP to draw fluid as needed from the AOP return line as soon as the HP reservoir starts to empty and pulls a slight vac…
on the aftermarket hand pump I used, it has a 60cu/in reservoir which is plenty to make it ron proof
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Jack stands under the axles is the only approved location. They updated the BII with a bottle jack saddle on the A1P2. Worth picking one up IMO. If you need the wheels hanging you have to get creative. The military makes extensive use of overhead lifting devices. Overhead trolley cranes and portable hydraulic cranes as well as boom forklifts (off road).
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If you need the wheels hanging you have to get creative. The military makes extensive use of overhead lifting devices.
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I'm probably not going to install an overhead crane . . .
I've got the bottle jack under the axle. I haven't lifted the tire off the ground yet . . . are you saying that I can't get the tire off the ground with the bottle jack?
[/QUOTE]
I'm probably not going to install an overhead crane . . .
I've got the bottle jack under the axle. I haven't lifted the tire off the ground yet . . . are you saying that I can't get the tire off the ground with the bottle jack?
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Yes that is the approved method to change tire. Bottle jack under the axle. If you need the suspension unloaded you have to pickup the chassis with a crane.
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Ronmar
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You will also want some cribbing. the bottle jack base is not very large so will tend to push into any soft surface you are working on.
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Yes that is the approved method to change tire. Bottle jack under the axle. If you need the suspension unloaded you have to pickup the chassis with a crane.
[/QUOTE]
I don't have the right tools to get the lug nuts loose on the front tire that I need to change first. The truck came with an 8 inch long 3/4 drive 1-1/2 socket tool, but my 1/2 inch DeWalt impact with a 3/4 adapter won't break the lug nuts free.
I've got a breaker bar, but no short 1-1/2 socket to use with it.
I've ordered the socket and a 3/4 drive DeWalt impact. I'll get this done when that stuff arrives.
Meanwhile, keeping busy, I cut off the 8 Huck Bolts that held the two rear lift points on. The lift points needed to come off . . . and they did . . .
Two of the cutoff bolts are trapped by a heat shield, which is held on by two bolts, one of which looks impossible to get to. I'll figure it out.
This bolts that I cut also hold a cylindrical cross beam in place, so I obviously need to get some grade 8 bolts, washers and lock washers, to get that crossbeam bolted back on.
As I'm moving in and around the frame, I am very pleased to find everything apparently in good condition with very little rust.
I did see today that someone has used some string, which is tied off on the walking platform behind the cab. Tomorrow I'll look under the platform to see what the string was meant to do.
This is going to be a fun project . . . a LONG fun project
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Make sure you are turning the left hand lug nuts RIGHTY LOOSY.
Left hand lug nuts are left hand thread. Right hand lug nuts are normal thread.
Left hand lug nuts are left hand thread. Right hand lug nuts are normal thread.
Ronmar
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Look for a torque multiplier to do break the lugnuts. The 63:1 unit I have only takes around 8-10 pounds of force to break them free. Dont forget the studs on the left side of the truck are reverse/left handed threads You will want a looong bar and torque measurement head to get an accurate 450Ft/lb retorque when you put them back on…. The 63:1 multiplier is a little higher than I would like, and way too high a ratio to retorque accurately. A 20:1 would be good, havn’t found one yet though…
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4:1 multiplayer and an extended reaction arm to reach the ground is what I use. Breaks down to the head, two sections of handle, and the torque wrench. Works out to 125 ft/lbs input = 450 ft/lbs output and with a 24" torque wrench it's 62.5 ft/lbs of force required from me. For a 220 lb human this is of no concern. You will not break a sweat and there is far less to worry about in terms of wind-up and mechanical loss as the 63:1 units have. The X-4 multipliers are about $200 on eBay.
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You guys are great, I really appreciate the help. How do you get the extended reaction arm for the 4:1 torque multiplier? Is that something sold by X-4?
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I'm at the point where I want to remove the M-43 detector and the decontamination Apparatus. Hopefully I won't come in contact with chemical agents during my travels.
There are hoses attached to the Decontamination Apparatus. Are those air or hydraulic? Any hints on caps for them? I presume I can just cut the wires of the M-43 box or remove connectors if there are any (can't recall at the moment)
As I pull things like this off the truck, I'd like to cap the hoses until I get the deck off and can more easily follow the hoses and remove or plug the other end.
There are hoses attached to the Decontamination Apparatus. Are those air or hydraulic? Any hints on caps for them? I presume I can just cut the wires of the M-43 box or remove connectors if there are any (can't recall at the moment)
As I pull things like this off the truck, I'd like to cap the hoses until I get the deck off and can more easily follow the hoses and remove or plug the other end.
Attachments
Ronmar
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Uuuh thats just the mount location for the chem detector… The box with the wires is your anti-lock brake controller… The box with the hoses is your air operated hydraulic pump… Don’t think you want to cut any of that out
don’t think I have seen any of these trucks with a chem detector still attached. It would have a second alarm box in the cab on the passenger side behind the seat, as that is the other half of that system when it is installed…
don’t think I have seen any of these trucks with a chem detector still attached. It would have a second alarm box in the cab on the passenger side behind the seat, as that is the other half of that system when it is installed…
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M43 detector is an inventory "sensitive item" like NVG's and weapons systems and is NEVER stored on the trucks. They generally aren't issued at all unless needed. They contain radioactive isotopes and are kept secured with limited access in addition to not being sold as surplus unless rendered inert.
Same goes for the decon apparatus. Not present on ANY surplus truck or SEVERAL someone's severely F'd up.
To the right (in your photo) is the air operated hydraulic pump and to the left is the ABS control module. DO NOT remove the ABS unit or you will probably crash and die the next time you panic brake and the rear end passes you and you hit a ditch sideways and flatten the cab down to the frame. The A1+ trucks have NO other brake bias backup. The ABS MUST FUNCTION or the truck is safety deadlined and cannot be operated except by direct order of the commander.
Same goes for the decon apparatus. Not present on ANY surplus truck or SEVERAL someone's severely F'd up.
To the right (in your photo) is the air operated hydraulic pump and to the left is the ABS control module. DO NOT remove the ABS unit or you will probably crash and die the next time you panic brake and the rear end passes you and you hit a ditch sideways and flatten the cab down to the frame. The A1+ trucks have NO other brake bias backup. The ABS MUST FUNCTION or the truck is safety deadlined and cannot be operated except by direct order of the commander.
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