Just won an auction - M1088A1

I have mine setup for both. Either wet tank or glad hand using high flow 3/8" fittings and a universal female quick connect with integrated shut off that can adapt my truck to almost all other quick connects if I need to interface with someone else's trucks or tools.

GeneralDisorder said:

Milton is a mixed bag. A lot of their cheaper stuff is basically slightly better rebranded Chinese crap. The military side of the equation is..... different. Totally different department with different mandates. I've sworn off buying their consumer/commercial stuff after some really pathetic aluminum quick connects and some inline desiccant filters that almost immediately cracked and failed.... I get it they have to compete but I wish this wasn't the world I lived in.

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I've got the Milton from Amazon. I'll fill two tires and see how it goes. The next 4 tires will arrive in the middle of April. I've paid for them already, but I'll be in Las Vegas for a week at a trade show. I don't go there for fun, so I've delayed delivery until the middle of April.

3rd week of April the baby will have all new shoes

Balancing beads? What do you guys think about balancing beads in tires? Are they working? Stainless? Tempered Glass? Ceramic?

I spent another happy hour scrubbing mud today. The three seats are out. The storage boxes are out and the M-16 mounts are out of the cab

Now to finish getting the mud out of her . . . lots and lots of mud

dwlindsey said:

Balancing beads? What do you guys think about balancing beads in tires? Are they working? Stainless? Tempered Glass? Ceramic?

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I don't believe they do spit. But no one seems to be be on the page I'm on so.... FWIW.

Not one person I'm aware of has actually done a before/after of *just* beads and reported the results - not because no one has done that - because a bunch of people have done that and it basically does nothing but lighten your wallet and waste your time. So not worth reporting a failure.

That's not to say that ALL tires won't have balancing issues but Goodyear's own engineers agree with me. It's not a balance problem it's an off-center and out-of-round problem and no amount of beads will fix it.

After about 5k miles they behave themselves. They will SUCK at first and gradually learn their manners but you HAVE to drive. Daily if possible or they get flat spots. And they will never be perfect till they are about worn out and nice and hot from driving. Then they will be perfect - just in time for a new set.

It's not as bad as I make it out. You get about 20-25k smooth miles. It's the first 4-5k that sucks.

GeneralDisorder said:

I don't believe they do spit. But no one seems to be be on the page I'm on so.... FWIW.

It's not as bad as I make it out. You get about 20-25k smooth miles. It's the first 4-5k that sucks.

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I very much appreciate your wisdom.

I'll be doing the tires without balancing beads. At first I'll be driving without any load on the rear and as reported elsewhere, probably bouncing a lot anyway. I'll get the hab on someday and then when I have some weight on the rear, think about balancing.

The tires are going to wear out in 30K miles or so?

In my motorhome world, the tires age out at 7 years with most of the tread still on them. I did 30,000 miles one year, 50,000 before I changed them and there was still a lot of tread on the tires when I changed them.

These aren't like that. The tread will be gone after 25-30k.

Chassis life is 35k. The military ends up throwing away LOTS of tires with EPIC amounts of tread because the rubber spoils. 10 years is a hard stop and the military policy is not to mount any tire more than 7 years old from date of manufacture.

GeneralDisorder said:

These aren't like that. The tread will be gone after 25-30k.

Chassis life is 35k. The military ends up throwing away LOTS of tires with EPIC amounts of tread because the rubber spoils. 10 years is a hard stop and the military policy is not to mount any tire more than 7 years old from date of manufacture.

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I certainly get the 7 year limit. I want the tires off my rig at 7 years.

Chassis life is 35K? Does that mean the military won't run the trucks more than 35K? I certainly hope to put 100K on the truck myself . . . hope it doesn't die at 35K.

dwlindsey said:

I certainly get the 7 year limit. I want the tires off my rig at 7 years.

Chassis life is 35K? Does that mean the military won't run the trucks more than 35K? I certainly hope to put 100K on the truck myself . . . hope it doesn't die at 35K.

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Oh that's a "projection" based on usage statistics and that's what the military would *like* to see but it never happens. I've never seen an FMTV exit service with more than 20k.

With ECO hubs and proper maintenance, including replacing a LOT of stuff that just wears out because they are BIG HEAVY machines, they can last as long as you want to keep footing the bill. Tires being one of those things that takes a lot of abuse. Especially the front due to the steering geometry of solid axles.

dwlindsey said:

The huck bolts were the easy part, getting grade 8 bolts locally was difficult. I went to Lows and two different Home Depots and I got a few to put the rear shock upper mounts back on. I still have a center support in the frame, where the rear air lift points (crane lift?) were, to bolt on.

I ordered more bolts from McMaster, which might be here tomorrow.

I'll get back on removing the spare tire structure in the morning.

I'm making progress

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Tractor Supply typically has a good selection of grade 8 bolts and nuts—

Thanks for the hint about Tractor Supply.

If someone could point me to a schematic of the hydraulic and air hoses at/from what I'll call the cab raise manifold, I'll be grateful. I've been searching for it in the TMs, without luck so far. Probably I don't know what to properly call it, so I can't find it with searches. Just letting me know WHICH TM it's in would be very helpful.

I got the tool box unbolted and off today, so I can see the hoses . . . now I need to sort out how to delete the air/hydraulic pump and how to deal with the suspension air lines.

I don't know yet if I'm deleting that manifold with switches or relocating it. It can't stay where it is.

Dwight,

Are you deleting the whole manifold box like I did? If that's the case, it's very simple. There are two lines from the tilt cylinder. Hook those into your ports on the pump you use to replace the AOH pump. They send fluid to either side of a double-acting piston. You can chuck all the others.... send and return for tire crane, send and return for kneeling cylinders, etc... no need for any of that if you're tossing the OE gear.

The OE lines are long enough to simply be re-used.

ckouba said:

Dwight,

Are you deleting the whole manifold box like I did? If that's the case, it's very simple. There are two lines from the tilt cylinder. Hook those into your ports on the pump you use to replace the AOH pump. They send fluid to either side of a double-acting piston. You can chuck all the others.... send and return for tire crane, send and return for kneeling cylinders, etc... no need for any of that if you're tossing the OE gear.

The OE lines are long enough to simply be re-used.

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I'm thinking to delete the manifold box, but I don't understand it yet. There is obviously an air connection from the manifold box to the cab airbags. If I delete the manifold box, how do the cab airbags get air?

There seem to be air bags on the chassis as well as on the cab or at least there are rubber boots that might be airbags. I have no idea how they work.

After I got the toolbox off and could see the hoses, I did see the hoses from the manifold to the spare tire lift so that's an obvious deletion and I started that on the manifold side, I'll climb up on the truck in the morning and get the hoses off the tire lift up there.

dwlindsey said:

I'm thinking to delete the manifold box, but I don't understand it yet.

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Do it. If you're doing what I did, the only function you'll need is the cab tilt, which I would highly recommend powering with it's own manual pump. The AOH unit just seems to be asking for trouble. The OE manifold function and plumbing will make sense as you dismantle it.

dwlindsey said:

If I delete the manifold box, how do the cab airbags get air?

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Independently. There is a level switch on the crossbar which feeds or vents the bags as needed.

dwlindsey said:

There seem to be air bags on the chassis as well as on the cab or at least there are rubber boots that might be airbags. I have no idea how they work.

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The bags are on the chassis, as you've now discovered, at the base of the horseshoe on which the rear latch is located. No air ride components are on the cab.

Air ride has to be supplied from the pressure protection valve off the wet tank so a leak will not endanger the brake air pressure. That is how the system is designed so if you re-route the lines to the air-bridge just make sure it originates from the PPV.

dwlindsey said:

I'm thinking to delete the manifold box, but I don't understand it yet. There is obviously an air connection from the manifold box to the cab airbags. If I delete the manifold box, how do the cab airbags get air?

There seem to be air bags on the chassis as well as on the cab or at least there are rubber boots that might be airbags. I have no idea how they work.

After I got the toolbox off and could see the hoses, I did see the hoses from the manifold to the spare tire lift so that's an obvious deletion and I started that on the manifold side, I'll climb up on the truck in the morning and get the hoses off the tire lift up there.

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I use one of these for my cab suspension fed from the same port after the protection valve as the original that was run over to the manifold valve. Push to inflate the cab suspension, pull to deflate thru that sintered bronze filter.

The hydraulic manifold has 2 separate air inputs, one for AOP and the other for cab suspension…

you will also have to follow the other air line from the manifold that is used for the AOP. It most likley runs back to the rear axle to a remote control valve that is connected into park air. If park air is applied(brakes released) it disables air to the AOP so you cannot tip the cab while driving… on the 1078 A0 they put that remote valve on the service tanks as it samples pri/sec air from the tanks. I did a video removing that valve from my tanks, it is the same basic process removing it from over the axles, simply follow all its lines back and cap them at their sources…