Just won an auction - M1088A1

GeneralDisorder said:

Fleetpride or any other Meritor dealer. Part numbers are in the -24P TM

Click to expand...

There are 87 mentions of seal in that TM and I'm not smart enough to figure out which part number I need

OK, I got it. I was in 24P-2 and the info I need is in 24P-1

Ordered at Big Mike's Motor Pool

Thanks VERY much for the help and please excuse my momentary stupidity. I am learning, slowly . . .

Tires leaking air - I've got two "new" 2023 tires mounted on the front. The CTIS valves definitely leak, new CTIS assemblies are supposed to arrive today.

Meanwhile . . . without the CTIS mounted, with only the tire valve stem with valve core inserted, both tires are leaking slowly. Down from 50 PSI to 10 PSI in 5 days.

What might I have done wrong in the assembly and inflation of these tires? They both have new O-Rings and Valve Stems.

Soapy water?

Did you use lube for the beads and the o-rings?

GeneralDisorder said:

Soapy water?

Did you use lube for the beads and the o-rings?

Click to expand...

I did not use lube. What lube should I use?
On one of the tires, soapy water shows a leak around the valve stem. Did I break the stem? Or the rubber seal on the wheel is not down tight enough? I'll obviously need to take that tire apart

I just ordered Dow Corning Molykote 111 - hope that's the right lube

Dow 111 is amazing stuff and you should have a tube anyway. But it's not right for this application. This is what I landed on and have used on all my tire installs with zero issues:

I've now got three tires assembled with CTIS assemblies and they are holding air.

My first attempt at doing brake service, drivers side intermediate axle, was frustrating, one of the adjusters was frozen in an extended position, so the brake shoe wouldn't release the drum. I finally freed it up and got it to release.

The first brake canister I took off fought me, hard. Despite multiple applications of penetrating oil the lock nut would not come loose. I spent more than an hour trying to get it loose. I finally resorted to cycles of heating with a heat gun and applyng penetrating oil. The oil started wicking into the gap and threads. After 5 minutes of this, the lock nut loosened.

I applied the same heat and penetrating oil proceedure to the next 3 cannisters and they came off quickly and easily. Rust and green paint were the culprits, I believe.

The brakes were full of sand and the grease dried out, adjusters working badly or not at all. I doubt the brakes had ever been serviced and the truck must have been into mud and sand up to the axles.

The brakes were working badly, but I'm surprised they were working at all. The brake shoes look fine, but the mechanisms were not working well at all.

Yep. Found much of the same on my truck. Lots of sand (Kuwait, and El-Paso), lots of rust, dried up grease, and bad dust seals. Never serviced - and on a 2008 with 2k miles.

Replace the canister diaphragms if you haven't.

Painted brake adjusters

Now I know why the brake adjusters were not working. Some idiot painted them with GREEN PAINT!

The original color of the brake drums was Green, then there's a layer of Beige, then a last layer of GREEN and at least one of the adjusters was painted into position with the GREEN!

Difficult Brake Spring

This is my first brake service, so please continue to be patient with me.

I'm having a LOT of trouble getting the brake springs on. I've got the adjusters retracted all the way and I can't get the brake spring on. I can *almost* stretch it to the right length, but I can't *quite* get it in.

Is it possible that my 24 year old rusty brake springs are too stiff? Would new brake return springs help?

Is there a special tool for the LMTV brakes that I should have and don't?

I'll be grateful for any pointers I can get!

Put the springs on the shoes, hook one shoe on the backing plate and then use the other shoe to pull the spring like it's a T handle. A pry-bar for additional leverage on the shoe is useful.

GeneralDisorder said:

Put the springs on the shoes, hook one shoe on the backing plate and then use the other shoe to pull the spring like it's a T handle. A pry-bar for additional leverage on the shoe is useful.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll try that

OK, I've learned how to do the brake return springs. I have two methods now, one using a steel rod in the target hole and a bar to push the spring in. . . . and a brake spring plier arrived today from Amazon:

OTC 7069A Heavy-Duty Brake Spring Pliers for Trucks, Buses, Trailers, and More

This morning I succeeded in doing the springs on one brake using the steel rod. Then the brake spring pliers arrived and that works a little easier than the rod, but both methods are OK.

After I got the drums on and the adjusters adjusted, I painted some 2 part black primer. Another pass with primer in the morning, then brake hoses and mount the tires

I have always used a large screwdriver with a notch in the end of the blade… the first time I ever used a set of spring pliers was a genuine “holy shit that was easy” moment