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Mine was a little difficult to read, NDT is correct, it should have the overbore stamped on it. As well as crank journal grind if at all.

So, went to an auction today...... Like a kid in a candy store....

It moved under it's own power for the first time in six years. Took a short jaunt to the local farm & home and forgot just how windy it gets with the glass down!

Exactly!

Well, it's back together and running again. Was drip free for about 15 minutes, then it decided to start. BUT, it's a very slight drip, at the present time it's liveable. I'm fine with this as long as it doesn't get any worse.

Start at the main switch, trace out to starter & solenoid. Does it still use the foot starter or is it keyed now?

Ok, here goes nothin'. Been working all week on this. I'm doing a bit of redneckery, decided to build up the busted out area with some JB weld. Took it slow, did layer upon layer until I was satisfied with the height. This is the end result. It appears that it engages the thrust lip on the...

Just another hurdle, it's just a time sucker more than anything. Good call, I'm sure I wouldn't get too scuffed up since it's not like these things are known for breaking land speed records! Oh, I might be able to be persuaded to let it go! :p I can't honestly let this thing beat me though.

Well, it's been an ongoing task, got the engine back on the stand. Tore the bottom end apart, check the new seal fitment and decide in whether or not to build up the area that's missing near the main journal housing. I was leery of just using the seal by itself, the missing chunk was pretty much...

Glad to hear you got it straightened out! As for the gauge issue, can always switch them over to mechanical gauges until you get the 24V dizzy and generator/regulator.

You got me, with it all being gear to gear, I don't know where else to say the issue can arise from. Crank pulley is keyed, cam gear is keyed so those can't shift. Short of dropping the oil pump and spinning it a tooth to realign the distributor, I'm at a loss.

Starting to wonder if the timing dots were lined up. If the cam gear is off by one tooth, that's approximately 6° of variance. Can't really think of anything else that would allow the distributor to be set so far out. What type of distributor is in it? You said pointless, so is it an...

Timing mark is the notch in the crank pulley. As for the 12/24 V question, that one's above my pay grade. Mine had been poorly hacked over to 12V. Not spending the money to convert it back, so it will remain 12V. Not sure what you could do without a regulator or generator since that's pretty...

Well that sounds like a damn good time! Pretty sure I wouldn't say no if one was offered to me lol.

Anytime, we're all here for a reason! Mine had a layer of almost neon yellow/green everywhere on it! I'm assuming it was used in a FD at some point. The wheelhouse tag was missing, but I did find a city of Carbondale property tag on the dash that had so much paint on it, I never knew that's what...

What do run on the track? I'm not a racer by any means, but I do have a couple of toys that could hold their own if necessary lol!

Ammo, you have an early M38A1, it has all the right signs. I have a '53, serial# 49940. My plate does say MD though. It's not unlikely that it could have been registered for civilian use as an M38, don't know why though. I'm going through a motor pool rebuild on mine currently, so ask away if...

Thanks, I thought it all went well together.

1. Not a beer fan, but I'll cry in a jar of moonshine and take a few pulls from that. 2. I'll make sure it's full of ice first. 3. Definitely and refill a few times. 4. I'll look funny if I roll up my sleeves beings they're short, and I don't smoke, so it just wouldn't be right. I need new seals...

Well, pulled the engine back out tonight. Looks like the upper rear main seal tried to come out the back. Wish I'd have noticed it two weeks ago when I had the pan off. Oh well, what do you do?