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I remember reading about that too, but the Yanmar in these genset's has the little port plugged and it's not removable. I will remove the whole intake manifold and pre-heater and clean with brake - clean. Then blow it out with compressed air. I'll run it and see how it goes with a fire...

I just figured out what happened, DON'T pour oil in the top oil hole. I am sure that was my mistake, there is new oil in the intake manifold and all the way into the pre-heater. If you pour oil in too fast it goes up the little plastic check valve in the valve cover and down the hole straight...

Well now I'm at a halt. I changed the oil in the yanmar, I poured the new oil in through the top in the hole that the plastic yellow cap says "oil" on it. Went to crank it and it freekin hydrolocked. I pulled the fuel injector and cranked it over and sure enough oil misted on the white towel I...

I'm somewhat stumped on the best way to open/close the AC interrupter. It looks like to close the interrupter the switch S5 (momentary open/close) goes to - but is it self holding so just a pulse is needed and then how would the controller open the interrupter. The controller can do pulse, dry...

And here is the current transformers installed on L1 L2, I should have bought 3 but they are $50 each. I used 30:5 instrument CT's. They seem accurate but I'll make sure the controller programming is correct then I'll use my Fluke meter and current clamp to check. I have programmed over current...

Well it appears the MPU works well, if anyone is interested the flywheel has 97 teeth so you can program the controller. here's the one I used, it's 3/8 by 2.25" http://www.davidsonsalesshop.com/templates/product_ProductBasic.aspx?ProductGuid=DSC17200&GroupGuid=80

Thanks, I tried to do it a couple of ways which turned out to be more complicated than it needed to be. I ended up using a typical 24VDC automotive relay and a SPDT switch for auto-start / default operation. I like to make things so if there is a controller failure you simply unplug the...

Alright, I have the basic functions of the controller working on my 831A. Go easy on me, I know its a mess but wanted to make sure I could make it work first. Now I'll add the other signals such as, over temp alarm, low oil pressure, current transformers and AC interrupter control. I'll be...

We are not way over your head, I think you know these things inside out upside down and every other way. I know you help people with your talent and skill. Thank you for that. I have never seen or touched a military generator till a couple of months ago so I'm just stubborn and keep at it till I...

I'll be starting the 802/803 project early next week, I'm waiting on the MPU and current transformers for the 831 but I'm real close to having all the other primary functions working. I'm hoping to put up a youtube video today or tomorrow. Thanks zanther We'll need that info next week. There is...

I have 2 of the 7310's if you want the capability of monitoring mains and monitoring the transfer switch I think you need the 7320. Another member bought one off fleabay for about $300. I've used these controllers on crappy 6500 Watt Chinese LP generators for a 4 month job before and they worked...

After you said to use K12 I went and looked at the controller to see if there was a unused dry contact and there was so I just programmed it up quick :) laptop is on and connected so it doesn't take long. Thanks for your help

Here is the programming I set up for output C on the controller that is normally closed so that should work.

Thanks. There is a couple of dry contacts on the controller and I think they are programmable, there is a one page installation diagram in the first post if your interested showing the I/O.

Here's some screen shots of the controller showing just some of data that's available if the inputs are connected. All this info is available remotely too. I dont have the current transformers yet.

Thanks, I'm just trying to figure out the best way of connecting the available controller outputs for run and crank to simulate someone moving S1 to run and then start. I have it to where the pre-heat works, then the controller shuts off the pre-heat then switches on the 24v of the run (called...

Thanks, Is that info for the 802A/803A? I'm still working on the 831A. I have 2 controllers so I was going to get the 831A going first. Sorry if I forgot to mention that.

The controller switched 24v output is labeled as Fuel which is basically similar to turning S1 to the run position on the genset. There is a separate output to crank as well. Hope I explained that correctly.

I worked on connecting the controller this weekend, I could use some opinions on what would be the best way to connect the fuel/run to the 831A S1. I have the crank circuit, the pre-heat (30 sec) and a LED indicator to show pre-heating all working. Also the 2 120VAC legs, L1-L2 voltage and freq...