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I have a complete 1009 I will sell you the doors and tailgate have no rust holes and the windows even crank up and down

That's odd, but maybe with the different voltage, the amp load is higher, I don't know what the stock starter draws, but it makes sense that a 12V DC electric motor would need more amps than a comparable 24V motor would, to produce equal amounts of torque.

So I went to a parts store that had the bolts in stock The bolts that rock auto sent are the right bolts. my block had SBC bolts in it. there is no heli-coil in there, so either the bolts were cross threaded in there or the block was re-tapped. I bought new SBC bolts and I am going to see if...

anyone know the part number for the bolt that holds it to the block, or do you know the measurements for the bolt?

OK so I found an autozone that had the starter bolts, no thanks to the people who work there. The bolts that were in the cucv holding the starter in were standard SBC gasser bolts. So either the PO re-threaded the holes for the other bolts, or they were cross threaded, or some thing worse...

I have the 1/2 inch or so of no threads, followed by decent looking threads. I looked at them as best I could, for damage or evidence of cross threading. It seemed fine. There is no bolt broken off, I could stick a piece of wire all the way up in there on both of them, and with no starter on...

starter bolts If you look at the pic in the link above, the silver ones are the bolts that came out, the gold ones are the bolts that rock auto sent, AC delco part number 15544950 according to the paperwork. are the new bolts the wrong ones maybe? I thought that maybe they sent me the the...

so I got my new starter bolts in the mail, as well as the brace bracket for the front, and some other goodies. I compared the new bolts to the old and there are some major differences. The new ones are shorter, have a different head, and the threads are a different pitch. you can see the bolts...

RE: Re: RE: 6.2l Really a Detroit? yeah I'm pretty sure the 5.7L olds gasser turned into a diesel is the 5.7L olds diesel...........just a thought but I bet I'm right....

I have been contemplating the same thing. I have been looking at the wiring off and on and I don't think it will be an issue. It looks like the wires go out to different places to act as like probes for reading voltage inputs, and not as essential parts of circuits. Just my two cents. If you...

I think to put a tach on a diesel you need a converter box or something to plug into your alternator, to read the revolutions off of that or something. I don't know for sure but I remember reading something like that. Its not as simple as hooking up to a coil wire on a gas engine

THANKS! so that is for the gear reduction starter?

Re: RE: Starter support bracket I have been looking for this, do you know the part number or what it is called? Thanks

so should I find some sort of mobile mechanic/machinist? I have never done a heli-coil, I am familiar with the process sort of, but I don't want to experiment on my engine.

So I think I have my wiring problems fixed but now I have a new obstacle. I re-did all of the wiring on the truck, turned the key to crank it (fired right up!) but heard a grinding noise. The next time I tried to crank it, more grinding. I figured it was starter motor teeth grinding against...

I decided to keep to STEICE port for now. The rest of the wiring is DONE!!!! It turned out great! I re-did a stock style wiring system, converted to 12V only, with new wire/cables/connectors and its sweet! The problem of the ignition circuit juice looks to be solved. The truck is all...

Hey while I have it apart I was thinking of taking out the STE/ICE port and the wires for it. Has anyone done this? Are there any implications or problems with this? I don't use it, never will, and I am trying to simplify my wiring in the truck, to where it is just the essentials for stopping...

okay I have started re wiring the whole thing, from the battery all of the way through. I undid all of the looms so that I could trace each wire from start to finish, and test with a multimeter. I have replaced some of the fusible links already and will probably do the rest. Those things are...

OK so if I hook up a jumper from the hot to the pink ignition wire coming from the switch, but pull the fuses for the ignition powered items and pull the connector on the injection pump, I get that 12V potential still. However, as soon as I hook any of those three things back up, either one of...