Search results

Looks good Gunny. What type of paint did you use on the skid plate?

And in case anyone needs the part numbers, they are: O-ring, Part #39 on the parts breakdown - #4167963 Retainer, O-ring, Part #40 on the parts breakdown - #4167964

Rick, thank you very much for the info 👍. After some searching, I believe that these are the seals that go onto that shaft...

LOL!!! Standing by Rick, standing by. I think that linkage I am referring to is the HI/LO Range Shifter. Oh, and take your time, I am done for today (after all, I really am an Old F---!).

So priming with the electric pump was not necessary to start your truck (it started fine without the electric pump?), just a normal bonus of installing the electric pump, is that correct?

Rick/Gunny, that set up is for the transmission shifter shaft seal, which I have already done (and that tool works great). Unless I am missing something, the 208 shifter has a different shaft design (squared off so the shift plate locks on, with a threaded shaft to screw the nut on to hold it...

Oh, I have an NP208.

Looks like a few folks went parts hunting on that one. Hell, they even took the radiator and the battery trays !!

Gunny, when you rebuild the transfer case, did you replace the shifter shaft seal? How was that accomplished? I am asking because mine is leaking (the last leak I need to get to!!) and I want to fix it. Thanks!

Just a question, but why do you need to "prime" your fuel line before starting? If you don't prime with the electric pump, do you have a hard/no start condition?

Yes, keep it (or ship it to me, I need a spare). But, if keeping it as a spare, don't have it rebuilt until you need it. Shelve life hurts these things.

I think one of the issues with this show is that they don't advertise much outside of their organization. I have been to two of their shows and both times they had a decent turnout, but the show was still on the smaller side.

Nothing for nothing, but did you make sure the Blackout Switch is not tripped?

Mark, Really good color. You wouldn't happen to be able to post a pic of the label on the paint can, would you?

If it was replaced in 2015 (no reason to doubt that) and I have only put on 13,000 (+-) since then, I guess the wear was accelerated by the bad U-Joints. Good lesson I learned is to keep checking rotating parts and replace when needed, or before, if convenient. I'll be doing the radiator soon...

So, I got around to addressing the transfer case/trans leaks. Used this seal for the rear transfer case seal. https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/transmission-seal?filterByKeyWord=national+seal+9449&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false . As you can see, aside from the marks and damage to...

Ok, finally got my buddy back to help me finally get to some of the remaining maintenance items (not done yet). Swapped out my U-joints today and they look to be the originals (plastic locking ring). I used the Spicer lifetime 5-795X on both ends of the rear driveshaft. On the old...

This is the radiator I purchased for less than $279 shipped and a seller rating of 99.7 with close to 6000 sales: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2249683485...s=Year:1984|Model:K30|Make:Chevrolet#shpCntId I am in the process of installing it now. She was well packaged, arrived within days, looks good...

LOL ! Thanks for the vote of confidence Rick, but I'm not convinced of that at all. I am muddling through and once this fusion fully heals, I'll be back crawling around, under and in my M1009. Once the new radiator is installed, it's a full exhaust and tires. After that, she should be good...

Now that's what I call luck. Rick, get out there and buy some lottery tickets !!