Search results

Dang. I’m gonna have to look into that. I’ll probably just take my shaft to the driveshaft shop and tell him to make something work. Spicer made a bastard joint at one time but it’s discontinued and I can’t find one.

This is a long shot but does anybody know if the Allison yoke will fit the fuller trans?

Just had another thought. How well will the leaf spring mount work with the trans not being centered?

Good idea. I’m hoping I can find them locally tomorrow. Supposed to quit raining for a few days and I’d like to get the trans in.

Cool. I just figured I might as well keep the gauge working since it’s there.

Noted. I will see what I can come up with. Know any alternatives for the trans temp sensor? I evidently broke mine somewhere along the way. The cheapest oem one I can find is $35. I’d guess any one wire coolant temp sensor would work fine?

So you think that is a better option than the factory mount? Care to say why?

Yep same thing. The 5 button thing just confused me. I’m gonna have to ask what that’s about. It’s wrote on every piece.

What I’m talking about are the pins around the flywheel. What looks like the flywheel face in that picture is the floater plate. The slots around the outer edge slide over pins to keep the floater spinning with the flywheel. I’m not sure what the writing on it means. “5 button” is wrote all over...

Any reason not to use the factory trans mount? I planned to use the leaf spring style but the location will be close enough to just weld an adapter plate to the stock bracket.

My flywheel only has 5 pins for the clutch floater plate and it didn’t look right. The missing one is on top, kinda hard to see. I still don’t know what all this “5 button” business means.

Well I found that they're always sold in sets of 6 so that was enough evidence for me. I think I'll just go ahead and put all new ones in it. I'm kinda at a stand still on the trans right now. Got the valves adjusted and got that dang fuel plug loose. Been finishing the turbo stuff. And trying...

Answered my own question :doh:

Weird. I guess there’s a difference somewhere that I don’t know about. All this is new to me anyway. Yes while the cab is off I’m definitely going to do the dual fuel line and a valve adjustment. Also need to move my front valve cover to the back to move the breather so my 6” intake will fit...

Bolted the flywheel on today. The spacer on the end of the crank has to come off. Measured for the input shaft again. The shaft will stick 1/2” into the pilot bearing so that should be just fine. When I tried to put the flywheel on, it hit the starter. Checked the ring gear to crankshaft...

Ah that system makes more sense now. I still may go that route. I can’t decide. It sure would be easier. Your flywheel housing is 5-1/4 from the block? Mine is 6-1/4 and matched the other housings I measured....

That doesn’t sound like fun..... I used a propane torch for a little more heat, hit it one time with a hammer, and it popped right off. The crank wasn’t even warm so I was worried over nothing I guess.

Ah mine has that too. Based on what I’ve seen so far there’s no way it will fit on the side. When I get it mounted I’ll get some pictures of that area.

What’s the trick for getting the spacer off the crank? Tried a slide hammer and a heat gun. Don’t wanna get too wild with heat so close to the rear main seal.