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Good deal! I may go that route just for the case, and wouldn’t hurt to have another battery anyway. Sure don’t need another charger laying around though! If you already have a charger or three, and no interest in the case, Amazon has regular price of $199, and $57 for the battery, so we may find...

Well now that we’ve gotten our credentials out there and a little anti-seize all over the place, thanks for the link Ahab! Looks like #2767 with the 4 modes, and #2863 with One Key are the only of six 1/2” “High Torque” models that have the 1,000-1,400ftlb rating. Now to figure out if the One...

You can actually run without it, but if your overflow valve or checks in the lift pump are starting to fail it can help prevent loosing prime. Did you try pinching the return line off to see if your still loosing prime? I’m leaning toward the overflow valve, but you need to find out why you’re...

Hah, and I thought I was the only one that had that! I think I have some white food grade somewhere around here as well!

Yep, I’d guess a locked thread or two around here if I remember correctly. Oh how I miss the days of arguing over anti-size [emoji17]

Yep, me to. Like hot sauce, I put that **it on everything, come out looking like the tin man every time I mount up a new tire!

Oh no, don’t get them started on anti-seize and lug nuts.

What model did you end up getting? I’m seeing several different numbers with the same torque specs as #2864 mentioned earlier, with a fairly big price difference on Amazon. Already have a 12ah battery, just looking for a bare tool.

Does your return line in the tank still have the rubber dip hose on it, and did you put a new or used lift pump on?

Yep, all that tubing is going to get heavy. 4” Junior i beam trusses and hat channel stiffeners would likely be twice as strong and half the weight, if you can spare a few inches of height. Also skylights and solar panels don’t mix well with foot traffic, if you working on a party deck?

Thought there was an existing thread on this but I can’t find it... Michelin X, with bead lock on combat wheel #400 . Bare combat wheel #117. 14’ bed with drop sides, and tailgate. No mudflaps, or hangers #2000. Sorry can’t find the picture of it on the scale.

FYI, non-ferrous. Typically no iron content in aluminum, except contamination...

Not a great location if that tire ever kicks up something big or blows out, also don’t think bolting the air dryer to the frame and the bed is going work out well...

Tows really nice, even towed it short distances without the tongue extension, behind the pickuphandled it really well but don’t want to make a habit of it with the pickup not being able to activate the brakes.

Camper hauler behind the 5ton

Not impossible but...Do we know an approximate weight of the thingies? Anything heavier than a jeep in that area, I wouldn’t consider using anything that wasn’t on tracks and twice the weight of the thingy. Even then you might risk giving the thingies some company.

Have you ever driven a vehicle with a spool, or selectable locker in the front?

Unless they’re empty!

Be careful, a cannonball like Red barn sells is not a locker, it’s a spool, and can be very hard on things if you haul weight or run on the road much. Sounds like a Detroit would be fine with your typical driving. I think just the intermediate axle would help tremendously in serious twisty...

Wow! I’m glad to see you made it home without hurting anyone or yourself! You had way too much slack in your cain! The idea between the chain though the pipe tow bar, is to keep the chain as short/tight as possible to limit the amount of slack and make it as close to a rigid tow bar as possible...