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It's almost got to be something inside the welder. A problem outside the welder would be obvious. In other words, you're not going to have something like a break in a 2/0 cable without it being readily noticeable.
The 5-ton box is just way too big.
Do a search the the deuce mod section for "HF54". That's the easiest power steering box to swap in, as far as I'm concerned.
It will be laminated safety glass. Glass shops can't cut tempered glass, it will just shatter when you try to cut it. Tempered glass has to be cut to the final dimension before going through the tempering process.
Well I noticed it's been almost a year since I started this thread. It's been a slow process and I had to put this project on the back burner due to other things coming up. It's starting to get warm and the kids are wanting to go camping so I've got to get this thing going.
Worked on it a...
Only thing it would change is the accessory that the valve is feeding will quit working at 90 instead of 60. Personally, I'd rather have a 60 yo give more air range to the accessory.
It's all but impossible to set backlash with a dial indicator (as the tm says) with the trans in the truck. There's just not enough room between the frame and PTO to get the indicator in there.
I always do it by feel, you just need a little movement but you also have to take into account the...
I use 1/8 rods for just about everything. I may go down to 3/32 on some thin steel but I'll usually mig or tig anything thinner than 1/8" steel if I'm at the shop.
Mig has kind of spoiled me and I don't stick as much as I used to. About the only time I use stick anymore is out in the field or...
I keep three rods in stock of various sizes. 6011,6013,7018.
if it's fairly clean, 7018 is my go-to rod as it makes a nice bead, easy to use, and has good strength.
6011 is for nasty dirty jobs. It isn't the easiest to weld with but it will handle dirt and rust pretty well.
6013 is what some...
Most Hyd shops can make up the lines if you can't find them anywhere.
The hardest part would be making the bends but anybody with a tubing bender should be able to do it. There is just a banjo fitting on the winch end and JIC where the hose attaches.
I'd try to contact MM before I did that...
12' bed would be better suited as you won't ever get enough material in that 10' to tell you even have anything on there.
Just make sure, if you are using the hoist off the 10' bed on the 12', that it will dump the 12' bed high enough.
How are you going to power it? Winch pump?
I haven't actually seen it done but there's no reason why it won't work. Anything to shut the air off to the engine will do.
About the only way to stop a runaway is to shut off the air or put it in gear and try to choke it and hope the driveline holds up.
Tulsa made a bunch of winches. I've seen them everywhere from 6,000lb to 100,000lb. Without a pic or data plate info, it would be impossible to tell what you've got.
You've got me there, I never have fooled with a Jake on a electronically controlled engine.
I never have seen a set of Jakes that had any control over the turbo either as mentioned in the link you posted. Didn't know they did that.
The ones I've dealt with only consisted of a solenoid assembly...
From my understanding, the GM 8.2 isn't the greatest engine. I think they had a lot of head and head gasket problems. Having said that, my Uncle has one in a C60 he uses on the farm that hasn't gave him any trouble but it only sees light use.
I wouldn't be apposed to dropping one in a deuce but...
A Jake brake doesn't shut the fuel off, it just goes to a idle setting. A Jake brake isn't connected to the fuel injection system in any way on any of the engines I've seen (Cat, Cummins, and Mack's Dynatard), other than the brake cut off switch on the accelerator rod. The reason for the brake...
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