Search results

My LMTV was easy to insure on a progressive commercial policy, roughly $550 a year…

I am curious on this as well, last time I checked mine don’t turn by hand, but I think one broke loose when I was winching someone out at the dunes a few months back.

This is the diagnostic kit that connects into that port, the big module in the middle of picture one is what connects there. It’s called the DCA port and WDS-A from this kit connects in there wirelessly for diagnostics. You do need specialized software to use this kit. It’s available via folks...

@GeneralDisorder has done more research than me but my understanding is that if you currently have a 100a alternator, you have to have a new alternator bracket, whether it was serpentine belt or not. Then the next item is if you do not currently have the coil over shocks, you have to change out...

Magnum Balance Beads. The place that sold me the tires provided them, I didn’t do any research, I just went with their suggestion. Probably would try the steel balls or just skip it altogether next time, I have a bad imbalance at high speeds so I don’t feel like the balance beads have helped at...

Yes I have the filters at the valve, so that should halt it there, although at that point I wonder if they would start restricting flow.

Replaced a leaking kneeling valve and a balance bead was trapped in it. Goes to show they certainly can migrate out of the tire further up into the CTIS system.

Now that you have access to the computer you can program your pressure properly and remove that “high pressure” hack sensor so that the computer can read pressure properly in all modes! The reason I was putting my money on the 34 Atmospheric code for the 5 flash was due to the wiring harness...

Do not modify, it gets the speed signal from the CAT ECM which it sounds like you have already changed. I have personally verified that the ABS and CTIS read MPH properly after a change to the Cat ECM, I made this change myself after the ECO hub install.

Were you ever able to pull codes on this ?

20R-7247 is the Reman part number which was 683.82 with a 1026.03 core charge lol. They really want the old one back. https://parts.cat.com/en/catcorp/20R-7247

Yeah sorry about originally mentioning the wrong Pins, I lost track of which connector I was looking at for the J1939 data pins. I think whether you have resistors on there or not, there should be absolutely no connectivity between the power/ground (F&H) and Data (G&X). I guess that you would...

Sorry I meant G & X to F and H, just curious if the voltage could be coming in from some strange harness fault like @Brennan mentioned earlier

Yes this is a super interesting problem. Have you tried measuring resistance between G & X to F and G&X to H at the truck side of the CTIS connector with the controller disconnected ?

I’ve worried about this myself, I monitored it in CAT ET and I feel like when it was REALLY screaming, it was around 2600 rpm at the top, is that bad for the engine? I dunno, but the redline is set at 2800 in Cat ET

Isn’t the default gear 3? Are you try to go to 2?

good question, i know I have seen historic on mine when I was working on my 4 light problem, but I can't say i recall how many times I had power cycled the truck

FYI The lastest version from DANA can pull both active and historic: https://dml.dana.com/assetbank-dana/assetfile/7980.zip My money is still on code 34

I am putting my money on 34 or 35 in that order.

What did you buy for connecting to the truck?