Search results

Hoo-doggy. Those folks sure proud of their parts…

Should have been more specific. 1998 M1078. Rear uppers. I haven’t even looked at the front (there is one?).

Is there a current known good source for sway bar bushings, especially the uppers? My lowers seem good, but uppers have totally left the building.

I run detroits front/rear in my CJ, about as short wheelbase as you can get, and have never had trouble in snow/ice here in Ohio. The key as far as I can tell is that right foot. Get on the power in a turn and it could get squirrels. You have to know when to hit it, and when to let her just roll.

Dont think “above”, think front and back of tire. When you turn the tire the large diameter tire will have a longer swing on the front and trailing sides. So turn your current tire full lock. If you meausre from the front inside edge, horizontally from the ground midway up the tire, to 3.5”...

Some photos.

I’ll post up some pics, it it would probably be past my expertise level. It’s at the back of the block on passenger side, runs out of one of the oil pan bolt holes, up the block and around the back of the block, parts unknown. It’s the around the curve part that’s probably outside my...

Yep, welding cast iron can be a bitch, but I imagine by the time I shipped an engine out to California and back plus pay for the repair, I could have probably just bought another engine.

i have no reason to doubt as that was my thinking as well, but in order to settle a dispute do you have documentation,,or a link to it perhaps?

I’ve gotten conflicting answers. Who has definite information on the material the 3116 is made from, cast iron, or steel?

I'm going to try to avoid too much water right now. Plan is to soak it down with the super clean, and use a garden sprayer to rinse. I figure a bit better control on where the water goes and how much goes there. I know that transmission harness can be problematic (it cost me a truck deal) and...

I bought 2 gal of Super Clean tonight. :)

I know top edge of oil pan is oily, both sides of engine. But I just can’t quite see where it’s actually leaking.

As soon as Mother Nature dries up a bit I’ll roll out there and check. If this is open, what’s getting drained?

it’s between the engine/transmission and seems to have spread evenly left and right of center. The main drip is almost directly above the driveshaft, dropping square on the Ujoint. I can’t tell if it’s the oil pan gasket, or actually is coming from between the engine/tranny. That would likely...

Does anyone have the box on the driver side that houses the windshield wiper fluid reservoir they'd be willing to part with? Mine is roached and probably easier to replace than fix. I got all my lights operating enough to pass inspection, though the lousy BMV decided to take today off as well...

I’m curious on the battery issue. I’m guessing they used 4 batteries to give the truck a deeper capacity to draw from during potential hard start scenarios, like cold weather. In that case what would be the difference if you draw down 2 batteries say .5 volt, or 4 batteries .25 volt? Just...

Yes, the actual latch is seized a bit. It’s better than it was after the judicious use of some PBlaster and cycling many times, but its still stiff and not free moving. The red tipped pin that indicates locked/unlocked doesn’t move at all. The pump works great and as far as I can tell no...

New cab latch looks to be about $115-ish depending. Rebuild kits I’ve seen are running close to $50. I have t looked to close at the sway bar bushings, it just in passing they looked to be all there. I believe the cab bushings may have been replaced. They look surprisingly “fresh”...

So my latest financial black hole arrived the other day, and there’s some things I’d address immediately. Cab latch is effectively seized up. Think I’d just as soon replace rather than rebuild. I want to replace all the rubber boots, turbo, radiator, what have you. Door seals are roached...