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Hubs unlocked, just turn the u-joint by hand. You could even do it on the ground withought a hoist.

You should be able to check the u-joints by hand. Jacked up and hubs unlocked, try turning them, the binding will be readily apparent. The originals are sealed, non-greasable.

The symptom you describe sounds like your front axle u-joint.

vacuum regulator valve # 14057219

Shankem....I have a request, if you are disassembling your direct drive 27MT starter. Could you measure the diameter of the armature shaft on the Commutater end. I forgot to take this measurement, last time I rebuilt mine. See this thread in regards to incorrect bushings received from ASP...

With all of the mechanically inclined types frequenting this site I'm astonished that no one has thought to suggest preventative replacement of some of the more wear critical components at 100K. Marzel vanes, novotrunnions and the fetzer valve will probaly be worn beyond tolerance. Also check...

The W80 is a small thermonuclear warhead (fusion weapon) in the enduring stockpile with a variable yield of between 5 and 150 kt of TNT. It was designed for deployment on cruise missiles and is the warhead used in the majority of nuclear-armed US Air Force ALCM and ACM missiles, and their US...

"damaged some of the intake seal areas" There are no coolant passages between the head and intake manifold!

Unless you could trace the service records for your truck..good luck on that, your maintenance records begin when you took possession. I would say that there is no way to know if the pads are original.

A quick search yields; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?67331-Manual-glow-plug-override-questions I'm sure there are countless other threads covering this subject.

That is your filter drain plug. The hose is supposed to be there, when changing filters you first drain the fuel out into a bottle. Should put a clear hose on the upper vent plug for bleeding also. If your drain plug leaks after you've tightened it, you'll need a new seal.

"still need to wash down the engine bay after bleeding the injector lines" I cut a couple of pieces of cardboard and place them against the inner fenders. Shows the spray pattern well when bleeding injectors. Then there's no clean-up required.

Monroe Magnum Steering Damper part# SC2913

I believe the suction sound is normal when cracking the cap. Your previous filter base had a leak, which would suck air into your fuel system causing the hard start condition.

This from another member ; The military voltage gauge is really pretty neat. Low red= below 18 volts. Yellow=18-25 volts. Green=25.2-30 volts with the little tick in the green at 28.8 volts. Upper red = above 30 volts. Just turning the key on with good batteries should be in the upper yellow...

I've heard that pinching the fuel return hose also causes the engine to shut down.

I was under the impression that CUCV's already had a deep pan. If not, whats the difference between a stock pan, a CUCV one and the deepest.

Why would you need a 24V IP? CUCV's are 12V, Humvees have the 24V solenoid.

Never had a loud roaring type noise from u-joints. Usually its a high pitched squeek as the needle bearings get ground into dust. The driveshaft u-joints can be inspected for play manually by hand, will be quite apparent if they're shot. The front axle u-joints can also be checked by hand, if...

When my starter started grinding the flexplate teeth, it turned out to be worn bushings in the starter allowing the armature shaft to drop down on the end, changing the bendix engagement angle. Does your starter turn over slowly? Might be rebuild time.