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I thought about that, but the factory air cleaner has a 2 or 3 inch step down in the bottom plate, the studs aren't long enough to take up that distance if it were flipped over. I guess I could try putting in longer studs just to test it and see if the noise level is tolerable, rather than...

So I saw this in a video awhile back, what it looks like is this guy cut the sides of his air cleaner off so the filter is exposed on all sides instead of the normal 3 or 4 inch wide hole, kinda like how air cleaners were on old muscle cars. I'm thinking of copying him, but I've never seen...

I think it didnt work for me because my front battery is somewhat weak. Might also have needed to replace the relay.

Think I had this issue when I changed my ignition cylinder. Theres a metal finger with kind of a ball on the end that screws into the plastic turn signal assembly, with the ball sitting in a groove on the turn signal lever itself. Mine fit kinda loose and only worked one way, the ball part...

It wasn't an issue in this instance, but I feel like it's worth changing the locks out so some jerk can't just hop into your truck and take it with one of the many keys that are out there. It's still easy to steal and break into, but it makes it noisier and takes longer than 5 seconds...

Awesome informative video on how a stock cucv glow plug system is supposed to behave: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MTkOl947aTk You CAN get a cascading failure with the stock setup. With each glow plug that fails the voltage ramps up on the remaining working plugs, causing more to fail. May be...

Thats pretty cool to see. I was actually JUST looking around to see when cucvs were decommissioned, it appears they're not done with em yet!

Wow that's kind of shocking. Did it break off during removal due to swelling or just all on it's own?

I was in kind of the same boat, I wanted to paint my wheels up before getting new skins. My wheels were in so-so shape. Took off what I could with a wire brush, did body prep (that used up a ton of rags), coated the rust with Loctite Rust Neutralizer, once that cured I went over everything with...

Seems to me that every one of these trucks are just a little bit different with how they behave electronically, and that there's no single perfect ideal solution for most things. Going back to the resistor was kind of a 'go with the devil you know' decision. It probably won't be an issue if I...

See, this is something that I've seen/had happen to me from day one on this forum that I really don't understand. Whys everything gotta be so darned personal on here? I'm not crapping all over what works best on your truck(s), if it work's on yours and your glow plugs shut down properly, then...

Thing that was scary about the afterglow with the bypass was that it didn't really show a power draw on the voltage gauge, but it was absolutely sending power to the glow plugs. It might just be my specific truck due to the electronic space magic weirdness that surround cucvs, but it might be...

So I took a reading at the glow plugs with the bypass, the truck doesn't stop the afterglow for a crazy long time. I shut down after 20 seconds of straight afterglow. It may be a question of the original glow plug relay not being able to turn off with straight 12v. I decided I'd rather take my...

That sounds exactly how my truck is behaving right now. It seems to work well enough, its just different from how it was before.

There wasn't a glaring problem that caused me to bypass the resistor pack. Supposedly with the resistor pack setup if you have a glow plug fail it will ramp up the voltage slightly on the remaining 7, until the next one fails, then the voltage goes even higher on the remaining 6, and so on...

So all of your trucks have the glow plug resistor bypassed? If so, what are the approximate temperature thresholds that the afterglow kicks on? Prior to this mod mine used to cycle afterglow 3-4 times seemingly regardless of ambient temp on every first startup. On startups after the engine got...

Right. I get that. What that other thread is saying is that the cycling on and off only happens due to excessive voltage, and if there's 12.5v or below the gp's just stay on steady for the afterglow. I didn't differentiate between the supposed steady afterglow as detailed in the other thread...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?114095-My-Glow-Plug-System-Dilemma-AntennaClimber-this-is-for-you-) The answers in this thread sound well researched. I always had the impression that the afterglow cycling on and off was entirely based on how cold the engine was and nothing else...

So I bypassed the glow plug resistor like has been outlined many times by other users. Just tried it with the original gp relay just to see what would happen, and maybe save a couple bucks if it worked. It seemed to work kind of at least. The glow plug relay and wait light kick on with the key...

Right, saw that he seemed to have that part of it already covered. Just figured the cheap cdrs were worth mentioning since op is planning to replace that as well.