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I am going to be painting my truck soon and am thinking I will use Rapco paints. I am going to do the 3 color camo. I was going to go ahead and order the rattle cans of brown and black and a few cans of rattle can green for touch up. My question is if I paint the truck green then use rattle cans...
I just wanted to let you all know where I found the best deal on DOT 5.
http://www.zoro.com/g/00040013/k-G2053703?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CPTK28uPxr8CFe4F7AodJyMA9Q
I got 4- 32 ounce bottles shipped for $52.92 with a $5.00 off coupon.
I am needing to bleed the brakes on my deuce and a half truck as I was told by the guy who bobbed my truck he thinks there may be some water in the lines. I am planning on building a power bleeder so I am not sure how much fluid I will need. The local parts stores want $30.00 a quart for it. Is...
I will be heading to get some grease from JD tomorrow. On a different note do you know how much cornhead grease to put in both sides of the winch? It also seeps and I have been meaning to drain it and install cornhead grease as well. I see varying amount when I search the site. Some say use it...
Did yours leak around the same spot mine appears to be leaking? How is the best way to fill with cornhead grease and how do you know when you have enough? I have read on here some people fill through the drain hole until it comes out the fill hole.
I have had the truck about 8-10 months and been driving it no leaks until just now although I suspect the previous owner didn't drive it much. I thought maybe it was just leaking around the screw that looks like an adjustment screw and there might be an easy fix for that.
I have a fresh leak than just recently started under the drivers side of my truck. I have taken a picture to show where it appears the leak is coming from. Can someone tell me exactly what this part is and what I should try first to stop the leak? It looks like maybe an adjustment screw of some...
I just need the tire off I don't care about the run flat. Excuse my ignorance but will the run flat be inside the tire when I get it off or stay on the rim?
I may soon be switching the 365's on my MRAP wheels to a set of custom Long Wheels. My questions is I will need to get the tire off the tire. To do this will I need to remove the nuts from all the bolts holding the two piece wheel together? I do not need the run flats off just need the easiest...
Does anyone have pictures showing like a 8-8.5" back spacing vs a 7" backspacing? I called and spoke to Marsh Racing Wheels today he said most of the deuce and a half wheels they have done were on 7" back spacing. I am wondering what this will look like. Do you think this is too much or too little?
So are you recommending removing the run flats assuming they have run flat inside? Do you have to take the two piece rim apart to remove the run flat or can it be done by just breaking down the tire? I am thinking about removing the run flats and having them put some balancing media in while it...
After doing some testing by spinning the tires after a short drive to heat up the tires it appears the tires and wheels are concentric, my disclaimer is that I was using a homemade pointer out of a block of wood with a screw attached to it do it's not scientific but doesn't appear anything is...
If I was going to purchase a set of custom wheels from say Longs or Marsh Racing for my 365/85/R20 Michelin XZL's what size rim would I need and how much offset would be needed so the front and backs track the same? My rear hubs have already been flipped.
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