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Thanks for the responses Action and RWH. I was able to get the light to go out but I ended up having to replace the TCU with a spare I had laying around. I pulled the old TCU, checked the pins/connections, added die-electric grease to the connections, reinstalled and the light was still on...
I have a real head scratcher..
I went out to my 1045A2 with 4l80e trans and found one of the two batteries completely dead. The batteries werent that old so I swapped the bad one for a new unit and off I went.
However, I just noticed that the Transmission light is VERY dimly lit only when the...
Good to hear you are using the Sanden compressor. That will make troubleshooting this much easier. I have installed this exact setup most recently on a 2009 GEP 6.5L with the Litens design serpentine setup. I believe that is the newest style serpentine system out there and the hole had to be...
There are a number of possible causes.
1. If the belt was "sufficiently tight" when you first installed it are you 100% sure that the alignment pin on the back of the tensioner made it into the new hole you drilled? I have seen the tensioner tightned with the pin outside the hole with the...
erasedhammer - If I were you I would quit while I was ahead. You clearly arent cut out to work on these trucks. I can assure you that the hole MUST be drilled. I have installed my fair share of these systems and assure you that the hole is necessary to provide the required tension. I suggest...
Im not sure if the pancake style compressor makes a difference. all of my installs have been with the Sanden compressor. With the Sanden installs, if you dont re-clock the tensioner the belt will be too loose. I suppose it might be possible to use a slightly shorter belt to compensate but...
Anyone have direct experience with installing the Ibis Tek quick egress windshields? I am sure it is harder than it looks but I am told that it is basically just removing the old glass and brackets and popping in the Ibis Teks. I will work out the defrost issues later.
Thanks guys...any idea what the seat material is (Cotton, Polyester, etc)? It looks like I need to know if they are synthetic fibers in order to choose the correct dye.
Just wondering is anyone has successfully re-dyed the seat covers on a HMMWV. I have 4 high backs that are in perfect shape..no rips or tears but they are sun bleached. I am considering pulling the covers off and using fabric dye to get them back closer to their original olive drab. Anyone...
Sent you a PM.
The mount I posted is for your compessor if you have the serpentine setup. Since you have the v-belt setup you will need to use the mount you have shown. Replacing the pulley is a PITA for sure. You do not need to remove the radiatoer stack but you do need to be flexible...
Going to answer my own question for anyone wondering about whether their gas struts are working. I went ahead and replaced my struts with new supplemental armor struts. It made a huge difference. Lifting the hatch with the condenser is now very easy. It can be done with a single hand now.
Greetings fellow Austinite!
That compressor looks like the same physical dimensions and mounting points as the Sanden compressor in the Red Dot kit. That being the case, you should be able to just use the standard red dot compressor mount which is readily available cheap on the auction sites...
That makes sense....thanks for the clarification. Does anyone happen to know how much lift "assist" properly working struts will provide? Again, I have the condenser mounted on the hatch but it takes 2 hands and crouching down for leverage to get this thing moving. Once the hatch moves up...
Are there multiple strut configurations on different models? I have a 1999 1045A2 that has only two gas struts. One on each side, both appear to be the same length. I just installed a Red Dot system with hatch mounted condenser so the hatch is heavy as h*ll now. Im not sure if I am missing...
I am looking to trash the 2 piece C-Pillar that GovPlanet installs on the 1043's when they get demilled with a proper Slant Back one-piece C-Pillar. I am curious as to how the installation is accomplished? The brackets are welded to the Sponsons so is there enough room to slide the C-Pillar...
Been down that road on my last build. I could never find a good square wave signal to drive the tach. The solution that worked for me was the Dakota digital sgi-5. Within 10 minutes I was up and running. This box converts the nasty saw tooth signal off the analog tach drive to a clean square...
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