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I joined a facebook group called "Cummins 855 enthusiasts" and asked around. There are a bunch of old retired truckers with decades of experience working all kinds of 855s. The general consensus is that the small cams like to rev a bit. Some "ran them at 2400 all day for 20 years" kinda...
If you're sure you need to pull it, then I'd look at something with a turbo because, why not? but I just turned up my rail pressure to 200 psi, shimmed the governor to 2400, put in new injector screens and the NHC 250 really changed it's attitude. Big girl's got some "grunt".
My plan is to stick to mostly highways and truck stops (to take advantage of the space, parking and easy refueling) and I’ll be carrying a landrover and several motorcycles to ride into towns and parks etc. I’ll be using the all wheel drive and ground clearance in Alaska, the deserts of the...
That's very close! I'll have to check out his profile. I'd like to see more of that truck. That "bullnose" hood of the 809's is my favorite feature. Such a great shape. I'll be leaving the front of it alone, but a 50 lb turbo sticking out of it... I just can't resist.
This is a big ask, but does anybody have the dimensions of the exhaust manifold where the muffler bolts on? The dimensions between bolt hole centerlines, the diameter of the exhaust outlet, the overall dimensions of the flange…?
It would save me about a 5 hour round trip drive if anybody does.
Ahhh ok. I didn’t know that. This’ll be a very one off deal. I’m not even gonna keep the turbo and plumbing from sticking through the hood. It’s more of a rat rod than anything.
Long term plan for this truck is to be a MadMax type rig for living in when I retire. 40' trailer for shop/living quarters built on log trailer suspension, so I can take it off road a little. Cab will be a '53 International Metro van body. Anyway, I'm adding a K31 turbo. It's the type found...
After filling in the pitting on the rim bead with a stick welder and grinding it smooth, then painting.… I mounted the rims using a handful of grease (to help seal against the rim during inflation).
All 4 are mounted and holding air.
I ended up filling the deeper pitting with the stick welder and blending it in with the flapdisk. Really quick and easy and I’m a lot more confident the bead will seal now.
Mine failed in the same way. Started popping out of high range on a cross country trip. I checked the cross member for the shifter and it was loose but tightening it didn't effect it. The lever wasn't hitting the bodywork. The "shaft" on the T-case was moving through it's full stroke, from...
I’ve had pretty good luck with JB “steel stick” for patching small holes in rusty steel boat hulls. These aren’t holes, but it’s important that it stays put and doesn’t pop out from the tire moving around on the rim (which is why I’ve hesitated). Unless somebody else has had success filling...
Yeah two are great, ones not bad and the last one is the worst I’ve used. I’ll just lay the paint on real thick and hope for the best. Only one way to find out...
I didn’t get any pictures. The bead isn’t completely rusted, but there are quite a few pitted areas that are probably dime sized and 1/16” deep. Too deep for paint to really fill. I’d hate to wrestle these things back off a rim if I can avoid it. I was figuring I might need to fill the...
Beside's the obvious advice of "get another rim", has anybody had any luck with repairing a rusty, pitted rim where the tire bead seals? I'll clean it up with a wire cup brush on a grinder and get it clean first, but I was considering some filler to fill in a couple if pitted areas before I...
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