Search results

weights seem to be moving freely, very little resistance to turning the shaft. It wouldn't freespin but would require a few ounces of pressure to get moving. Im going to open up the inspection window and make sure I didnt snap another advance pin. While Im at it all check the weights.

I have a solid flow of diesel leaving the seperator/filter at the flare fitting going into the injection pump. Still nothing at the open injector, is there any chance this has something to do with the cold advance solenoid affecting the injection pump bleed back line to the tank? I disconnected...

Got a new cam advance pin and reinstalled the injection pump then filled with diesel. I tried turning it over with the intake manifold off and an injection line cracked open but nothing is coming out yet. Currently letting the batteries recharge before I give it another shot.

any chance you know the rotation of the injection pump? I keep reading conflicting info. At first I saw all are clockwise, then I saw someones was running counterclockwise, but the spare IJ I just bought is clockwise?

My concerns exactly.

I think I found my problem, After fighting to get the advance screw plug off, I pulled the advance pin and found it had sheared off in the pump. I only found part of the sheared part. Still missing the nub at the end of the pin.... anyone have a trashed IP they could grab the advanve pin put...

They are pretty new and when the truck goes into wait mode I can see and measure and voltage drop but Its still worth a check of all of them. Im still more worried that nothing is coming out of the injeciton line headed to the injectors. I wont be able to work on it for a few more days, Drs...

checking the IP inlet was what I had planned to do today but found it impossible with the intake manifold still on. Its well over 100 deg. here in texas so Im waiting for the evening to start on the intake manifold. filter and screen looked great when I replaced them last year. I dont drive it...

armature moves freely and the solenoid requires a lb or so to close then opens back up very easier. As I dive deeper I think if there is an inlet filter on the IP than it must be clogged. As a side note, I did notice the overflow line from the lift pump was melted shut, I just fixed it with...

interesting thought, I feel very strongly the lift pump is doing its job as it shoots diesel out of the fuel filter. In fact as soon as I loosened the clamp on the hose it started spraying diesel. Also, why didnt it run when I filled the IP with Diesel? BUT I will investigate!

Going to do more testing. When I opened the cover is was very clean but dry, no diesel. I filled it up with Diesel Kleen. I tried starting it when I first filled it up and again in the morning with no luck. I wasnt able to mess with it much today, this evening I tried starting it again...

Well damn, I rechecked the ground I used and it wasnt good. Rechecked the solenoid with a confirmed ground and it opened and closed just fine. Back to the drawing board.

BINGO! Last night (while I couldn't sleep) I was thinking of ways to test the fuel shut off solenoid and it was actually very easy, I took the cover off plugged 54 wire back in and had the wife turn the key and nothing. I confirmed it was getting 24V but didnt move at all.

I tested the driver back cylander fuel line off the injector and absolutely nothing came out. I opened the IP and poured Diesel clean in it as well as into the injection pump intake line and turned it over a good bit to try and help it move through the system. Ill try to start it agin in the...

Im leaving toward bad injection pump. I followed this guide: https://gear-report.com/hmmwv-fuel-system-troubleshooting-tip/ Plenty of fuel is leaving the fuel filter/sep but using a 1/4" clean tubing I can see the IP is pulling almost no fluid. Anyone know who much the IP should be pulling?

Turns out my charge controller was off and giving me a wierd reading. Batteries are fine. It has to be fuel related. If its hot outside will the hummer still spout white smoke if its getting fuel? I'm about to do some fuel tests like purging air out of the system.

While testing this I found my batteries were at 14v! I have no idea how it started the first time but it did. Added fresh fuel and waiting for the charger to do its thing.

My R1 was running like a top when I left for vacation, when I got back 6 days later I went to move it and it fired right up but died immediatly. Tried to start it again but it just cranks strongly with no start. All maintanance was done recently, new-ish glow plugs and temperature control unit...

now none of them work. And yes, check that socket's ground agains other working bulbs and the back graound on the outside. They all had onctinuity.

Excellent post, (not sorry for reviving it) I did the mod and all signals work except back passanger. I checked voltage at the socket and it seems to be the same as the driver side socket that is working. I tried three different bulbs as well. Any idea what could be wrong?