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No idea on the brand. They were in a stash of parts I got. I have since found out they are cheapo units. The push in fuses tend to rattle around some in my experience. Get good quality.

I did something like that on my Cowdog Suburban. I put 2 fuse blocks on the front of the center console. 1 always hot wired directly from a battery. The other switched 12 volts from an empty spot on the left of the stock Chevy fuse panel. I run everything not stock to the 1987 truck off the...

Section 8-10 of the TM 9-2320-289-20 says 70 foot pounds for the drag link end nuts on page 8-21 which is page 454 on my pdf downloaded manual.

I call mine the smile generator. The basic truck is an 80 year old design. Sticking with the parts designed to work together and proven to work together normally causes less issues.

Yes, all adjustment is done with the nut next to the bearing. The lock nut just locks it down. The TM’s seem to skip over this procedure. The civilian factory service manual says this: 1. torque inner nut to 50 ft. lbs. while spinning the bearing hub to seat the bearings. 2. back off the...

The stock alternators are isolated ground. You will not find such a thing at a chain parts store. They are easy to rebuild and kits are available on this site from at least 1 member and on eBay. Have you by chance followed the troubleshooting steps in the -20 TM?

Yes, you can feel it with hands at 6 and 12 when it is there. I always worry more about too tight instead of too loose. That is why I find the line and try to lock it down right on the line.

Every manufacturer seems to have a different method for this. I once found a 1957 Buick factory service manual that said to tighten the bearing nut to 40 ft pounds, spin the hub 19 times and then do some other form of magic before putting the lock nut on. I have developed my own technique for...

Glad you got it working and might have a spare soon.

You get to be the test pilot on that one. Loaded to the gills I would suggest putting the tires at the pressure the side of the tire says is max. Running empty that will have you bouncing off the ceiling and your teeth getting rattled out. The rear tires are going to be whatever psi you are...

That is the worst case scenario. Using a finger nail file to clean the contacts and a dental pick to bend the pins closer together might be all you need to do if this is even your problem.

You don’t need to just check the fuses for being good fuses. You need to verify power is getting to and from the fuse legs. The wire end pins inside the fuse panel melt into the plastic and no longer touch the fuses sometimes.

What is the Propel fuel? I have never heard of it.

When you turn the fan on any speed you get a bright red ALT 1 light and no air from the floor or the defroster, correct? I would suggest you remove the blower motor from the passenger side front fender/firewall area. A 1/4” drive socket set works best for me doing that. The screw at the outside...

Thank you for watching.

To answer the newest question in this old thread first. Yes, the statement about the timing lines just being an approximation or starting point is true. I don’t have a Tach n Time Machine so I can’t answer about that. I do have the Snap-On machine that works the same way. I even did a video...

Yes, that screw inside it what you adjust it with.

replacing the modulator on the side of the transmission with one that is adjustable works well when the IP mounted valve is bypassed. However, try adjusting the one you have. As in all the way forward, test drive. All the way back, test drive. Adjust to what you want. If no difference, then...

No. Leave the internals alone.

It is easier to just swap the top covers of the IP when going from 24 to 12 volts. The plugs will match up that way too.