Search results

That is what chainsaws are for. You get firewood as a bonus for cold winter nights.

Build a DC system for power storage (battery bank, solar panels, solar charger). Combine this with an AC system for typical household power [inverter w/ onboard charger for batteries (Outback) and a small diesel generator (531A)]. If you want a real challenge, try to put together a DC...

The clear fuel line allows you to see if the fuel system is air bound. The little 2kWs and their gravity feed don't run well if there is lots of air near the injection pump. If you know a set well and can spot fuel issues by ear, you can replace the clear tubing with proper fuel line.I have...

There are compatible fittings from other manufacturers as well. Look for ISO 7241-1 Series B quick disconnects in the 1/4 body size. I believe Safeway Hydraulics BS101-2 and BS 105-2 are interchangeable. http://www.safewayhyd.com/bs10.htm

According to my TM for the MEP-531A, the filter element is 114250-55510. The o-ring on the filter bowl is 102103-55520. Both of those look like Yanmar part numbers.

The spinning type precleaners definitely work and greatly increase air filter replacement intervals. Add one if you can. http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/support/datalibrary/000207.pdf

The rubber duckbill thing ("evacuator valve") on those filters is supposed to point down. Large particles trapped by the filter will drop out the slit in the rubber which opens and closes with vibration and pulses in airflow.

AN and JIC fittings are both 37 degree flare fittings and are functionally interchangeable. I believe the difference is thread tolerance and long term fatigue resistance which is critical for something that flies. I don't think a generator or vehicle fuel supply will care.

It is a single cylinder engine. The air in the block displaced by the moving piston has to go somewhere.

To rope start an L series Yanmar, you have to push the decompression lever to build some speed in the flywheel. Inertia carries it through the first compression stroke. The electric starter has enough torque to power through compression.

If you can pull it through a compression stroke with the rope starter, the engine has mechanical issues.

It should be almost impossible to pull through a compression stroke without pushing the decomp lever. Try starting it with the onboard electric starter. 12V is probably enough to start a 531A even with the 24V starter.

Digikey has both MS3106E16-11S (sockets) and MS3106E16-11P (pins) from ITT/Cannon in stock for about $40. The contacts in these have solder cups so you do not need a crimper. If you believe the PDF spec sheets at Digikey, they come with a rubber bushing and cable clamp backshell.

Those are MIL-C-22992 Class L connectors. Amphenol still makes them but they are expensive. Take a look at the waterproof IEC 60309 pin and sleeve connectors which come in every voltage, current, and phase combination you could ever want. They have regular plugs and receptacles for output as...

Use fuel specific tubing for the fuel lines. Standard clear PVC from the hardware store won't hold up. I have used this fuel specific stuff from McMaster with no problems - http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-tubing/=s6t71l

My best guess is that your test will be successful. Roll video anyway to capture any chance of copper turning into glorious flames and smoke.

Yes, that is the resting voltage. You need to go a little higher than that to push the chemical reaction inside the battery to charge. For example, a typical automotive charging system runs at 13.8 to 14.4V to charge it's onboard 12V battery. I'm assuming a 60A charge controller automatically...

A typical max charging voltage for a "12V" lead acid or AGM battery is 14.1V so a 28V genset is perfect for two 12V batteries in series. I don't know about any sense wire in the 501A but I do know that you are not going to get more than 2.2 to 2.4kW out of it. If your batteries draw more than...

The controls should activate that solenoid. As far as I could tell from the brief time I had the covers open on one, there are controls inside the main control panel and in a black box on top of the engine near the air filter cover. Its called a preheat module according to the TM (item 14 on...

If you are handy with electrical bits, you can automate a load bank to prevent wet stacking using a current sensing relay and an appropriate electric heater.http://www.grainger.com/category/current-sensor-relays/relays/electrical/ecatalog/N-8ek