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Serpentine belt or V belts? That is the difference in the water pump designs. Each has its own backing plate that will not work on the other pump. If you got a pump to bolt to your backing plate and block, then it is the same as what was there before. Unless you swapped backing plates as well...

What manual is that? I don’t think I have seen that passage before.

Looks good.

Bypassing that might help some. What worked best for me was cleaning the contacts on the diamond shaped Buss bar above the glow plug relay.

I picked up a M101A2 in OKC years ago and had the same thought process. Trailer or pull? I wanted to pull. So, I removed the hubs, bearings, brakes and wheels from another M101 and brought them all with me. Then swapped them over so I knew all the parts were ready to go. Good thing I had...

Since the belt is missing from the passenger side alternator and the front battery negative cable seems to be going to the firewall Buss bar. I have to ask if your truck has been converted to 12 volts? If so, search for the Roscommon conversion to see how things are supposed to be wired. If...

Off Road Design might be your best place to look for things that actually work on these trucks.

One of the 1965 M35 manuals listed out about 30 symptoms or behaviors and said to load the truck to max gross weight and drive for 100 miles at max speed. Then see if the problem still existed. That is probably the best advice for driving a diesel vehicle I have ever read. Glad yours is better.

Batteries are always good.

The crank handle from LMC is just the shell. There are a number of pieces that have to get moved over if I remember correctly. I haven't done mine in a few years. The less I drive it, the less the back window crank breaks.

Do you have a test light or volt meter? Since the tail light and brake light share an 1157 bulb housing. You can remove the bulb and check for voltage on the two leads at the bottom of the socket. If you have voltage there, then ground is still your issue. No voltage, then you get to do what...

I forgot to write about the brake upgrades yesterday. After my trip to the mountains I installed some performance front brake pads. Hawk Performance HPS to be exact. They are expensive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO6634?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details But, they work amazingly...

The Cowdog pulled the 6BT M715 we have been working on for Sermis the last decade or more out of my class last Friday. Then, Saturday I drove it to his place 90 miles away. This is the heaviest load I have ever had on my trailer and the Cowdog. His engine is about 600 pounds more than the 6.2...

95° is what the sensor on the passenger rear head for the green wire goes off of. The glow plug sensor inside the valley on the drivers head is somewhere around 160° to 170° for that system. There are actually 2 green wires at the IP. The wire to the fast idle solenoid on the drivers...

I haven’t been able to get pictures. I will try this week.

Agree. The shut off solenoid is easy to do once you pull the top cover. I had a newly rebuilt pump not turn off the first time I started the engine with it. The pliers turned it off and stayed in the truck for a week until the new solenoid showed up.

Keith explained the IP side. The truck wiring side is a bunch of could be things. It could be the actual ignition switch which is down at the bottom of the steering column is a bit out of adjustment in relation to the rod that comes from the keyed ignition cylinder. It could be one of your...

You just need a long slotted tip screwdriver to adjust the idle. The screw is under the fast idle solenoid. Shine a light in there and you should see it.

Pull the pink wire from the IP with it running. If it shuts off immediately then the problem is on the truck wiring side. If it delays then the problem is inside the IP.

A Temple resident and fellow member of this site, Sermis, has a project M715 I have been messing with for a while and I am bringing it back to him.