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Try removing the fuel cap and running it. It could be a fuel tank venting problem. Otherwise, I would suggest following the steps in the -20 manual trouble shooting section exactly.
Welcome to the M1009 world. Those bolts are always a pain. I have gotten to where I will try one once. Then just break out the drill and do an upper body work out.
Sorry I messed up the year thing. I have used 1984 K5 for truck stuff and 1985 K30 for engine, transmission and transfer case when looking for civilian parts. I inverted them by accident.
The engine number is on the drivers side of the "shelf" the transmission bolts to. Find the oil pressure sender at the back of the engine and look down. It is between the peak of the triangle and the upper most driver side transmission bolt.
Any auto parts store will sell you a 1985 k5 blazer fan switch.
You need to pull the gauge bezel off to replace it. I would highly suggest you undo all of the battery terminals before starting this job. The lugs on the back of the volt meter are hot and will probably touch the metal surrounding...
When I rebuilt my GEP 6500 I looked into which style of rocker arm was best. Here is what I came up with:
Cast iron
expensive to manufacture
Audable noise
Bushing can wear
Shaft can wear
I could not find a single incident of failure with the engine running resulting in a broken engine...
I have no Banks kit for sale, have not advertised one for sale and have not been talking with anyone about selling anything on this forum. Either you have your usernames mixed up or are getting scammed.
Glow plugs are only needed to start the engine if the internal engine temperature is below 160°. After that how the engine runs is dependent on the injection pump timing, air filter, fuel filter, compression health, idle speed setting and injection pump health.
Have you tried turning the idle...
The above listing of a ground sequence is why I wrote about how the coolant wire doesn't ever get within a few feet of the IP power wire yesterday.
I think you will end up finding a messed up thru firewall plug pin or two, some wires missing insulation that are touching or since you mentioned...
The oil pan will be fine.
The exhaust manifolds will fit inside the frame rails.
You will have to run a serpentine belt or change the water pump to run V belts.
Other than that, it will be the same fabrication required to add the GM turbo the 6.2 was going to require.
The wire for that sensor runs with the headlight wiring around the front of the truck. The pink wire that turns on the Injection pump comes down the valve cover and over the rear of the engine. Basically, they don't come within a few feet of each other. So, the level sensor shorting out the...
Really, really, really check all the grounds for the blinkers on that side of the truck. Start with the screws into the blinker buckets, maybe even pull the lens covers off and make sure the ground wires inside the blinker bucket are connected and clean.
There are standard turbo flanges. A #3 and a #4 in this case. I forget which is which, but the Banks and GM are not the same number.
However, the hot set up for the Banks Chevy kit is to put a Bank Ford kit turbo on it. That one has a waste gate and pushes more boost off idle. But, really...
Yes, the parts will bolt up and it will run great. Getting the crossover pipe and down pipe run will be an exercise in frustration on a CUCV. But, very doable.
Here is what I think is a more important question. Why do you want a turbo? If you plan to hook up a 8,0
00 pound trailer and drive...
While the military "Medium" tow bar is very heavy, it along with the 1 inch feet work perfect for the CUCV trucks. Since I got an aluminum Ibis though, I haven't gotten my big heavy steel one out. If you get an Ibis, make sure you get the matching feet. They are different than the Medium feet.
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