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If it has truly all been drained, you could use either DOT 3 (common fluid) or DOT 5 (silicone). I would imagine you could use one of the others too, as long as it's not mixed. Brake Fluid

I was going to use Speedhut years ago when I was doing an oddball drivetrain swap. GPS Speedometers Gauges and Custom Gauges by SpeedHut

Agreed.

To get a spacer thick enough to make a difference, you'd be changing lugs, buying the spacers, and then running an inferior setup when you're done. Why not buy different cheap steel wheels with the backspacing you want?

I just got my M1009 about a month ago. I've been collecting selected pages from the TMs, as well as other things I've found that would be useful (some of the diagrams from CUCVElectric, for instance), and have bound them in a 3-ring binder. My CUCV came with a civi Blazer console installed...

The fuse associated with the gauge was OK, but it's not getting power at the fuse panel, which makes me think (as stated) that it's a fusible link. I just need to find which one it is.

Well, I knew better than to mess with the dash with the batteries hooked up, but I DID do some tweaking of the panel after I hooked the batteries back up. Essentially, the panel is missing a few screws, and a few places have the screw holes messed up...so yeah, it's possible I did that after...

Bottom fuse is good but is getting no power with the key on or off.

After just generally poking around, I see that the Gen 1 light isn't on when it's running, but the gauge is still dead. There is no power getting to the gauge. I'm not very good with electrical schematics, so where does the gauge get power? I'm going to TRY to check out the manuals...

Ok, I was installing an oil pressure gauge, so I removed the dash surround trim around the gauge cluster. I installed the gauge (mechanical) into the radio block plate, and reinstalled. I had to unplug the battery/amp meter gauge to do the work. I reinstalled the gauge wiring as it was...

You need to get some light under the hood. The truck has 3 belts, not a serpentine belt! :wink:

My electric pump is mounted towards the rear (near the rear of the passenger door area, inside the fram where there's already a section of rubber line), with the Fram G3 filter before it. I wouldn't use just that filter for the whole system. I'd either maintain the original system under the...

As stated, CUCVelectric is one good source for these. I see that their website is under (re)construction right now. As for an electic pump, I used the Airtex E3158 from a 1993 K3500 truck 6.2 diesel (about $50 from rockauto.com). More Information for AIRTEX E3158 I used a Fram G3 filter...

A $50 electric fuel pump is much easier than toasting a pair of batteries and/or a starter!

I just bought one from Saginaw, Tx on GL. It has 73k miles. The pics showed no batteries or fuel filter, but otherwise intact. It was drained of oil, coolant, and trans fluid. I added oil and filter, coolant, and changed the trans filter and pan gasket. I added an electric fuel pump, as I...

The Energizer (Johnson Controls) Group 31s are at Sam's Club for $108 or so.

The only thing I didn't agree with. It makes it so much easier to do it right, and who cares if the next owner chooses not to? For the time the current owner has it, it will be much easier to do the next time.

The Turbo 400 doesn't like synthetic fluids anyway. Any clean new DexIII compatible fluid is best, and also the cheapest. I've never talked to anyone that rebuilds old T350/T400s recommend synthetics.

Per the manual you can flat tow with trans and TC in neutral up to 50 miles safely. That said, it'd be better to take the 10 minutes and pull the DS.

I just ordered all 3 from RockAuto for $15.96 plus shipping. :driver: