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No. Adding fluid and pumping does not do it. While you can bleed the old fashioned way (need 2 people) I recommend a pressure bleeder. Plenty of info on this site. Bleed the airpack first, then start at the furthest wheel (right rear rear).

SOOOO true.....(not on my truck, though)...and I always pity the next guy who has to remove that particular part...and swear when it is me.

Did you compare wheel hub temp and brake drum temp? Unless the drums are cool, I respectfully disagree because "preload" is what I thought as well, with a wheel that drove me nuts for getting hot very quickly. All I did was back up the brakes all the way on this wheel - result: ice cold. It...

Dan, you already messed with the brakes as soon as you took that switch out. As the others said - bleed the brakes (while you probably get away with just bleeding the air pack, you really should bleed them all around). On the Deuce, brake bleeding is something every owner should be able to do...

I think that this never went beyond the stage of being a discussion document. It is getting quite old. Also, some points in there lead me to believe that this would meet fierce industry resistance. "Free trade" is ok - as long as it means that the pertinent industry can control the gate. If you...

I had to play with my left front brake because of the same symptoms. You need to use a feeler gauge, remove the inspection cover from the brake drum, and check that you have 0.02" (0.5mm) on top and 0.1" (0.25mm) at the bottom and a gap all along the brake shoes. Check the values in the TM to be...

Your truck probably did not look as nice when it was delivered from the factory!! Outstanding restauration.

Nice job on that hoist! Do you think you might be better off making your own side boards, rather than using the troop seats for regular or heavy hauling? The gaps in the troop seats won't reliably hold gravel back and I am sure they get trashed quite quickly.

This is the Deuce forum. Relax, I do not want to order an econobox. http://military.kiamotors.com/KM25/Overview.html The grille is....beautiful in the eye of the beholder, but that could be remedied. It appears that it conforms to the standard hood sweep. In a way, it would be so cool to...

Erik's does. Brake Light Air Operated Switch Upgrade Kit For M35A2, 12255668

Installed the muffler on Sunday. The hardest part (emotionally) was cutting the J-pipe. I just hate doing stuff like that ("destroying" an original part). The up-side is how easily the muffler tucks behind the heat shield. It all received a new coat of paint as well. I was almost worried about...

Amen to that. Oftentimes, people use the "rugged military construction" as an explanation that careful-to-anal PM is unnecessary; things will still work without the required maintenance. The military wants "rugged" in the sense of "will survive the mission, even if abused and not maintained"...

I agree with Clinto; paid 65 and shipping a few weeks ago for a NOS set. However, if you have a clutch/brake shop in the area, it is worth the while to ask what they charge to re-line your original shoes.

YES, WHEN THEY WERE NEW or constantly being rebuilt on schedule. Fact is, that with 35+ year old trucks that often DO NOT get the care and maintenance they got in an environment where time, parts expense and manpower did not matter, there are trucks out there - and it may not be yours - that...

You did a good job! Can you elaborate on the composite decking material that you used to re-do the troop seats and head rack? Brand, dimensions, price?

added update in original post

"Warm", where you can put your hand over the hub and leave it there, is ok. "Hot", where your hand is uncomfortable with the temperature, is not ok. If too hot, check for dragging brakes or axle nut preload too high.

Troop seats - stuck piece of wood **solution** (for update, see below) I have one piece of old, wooden cargo bow upright stuck in the troop seat square pipe. Soldier A had left it there and the wood got wet, swelled up and got stuck. Eventually, someone broke the upright off. I need to remove...

I know that the "standard" military method was to drill holes in the top of the bumper and use a threaded rod with two nuts to lock it into place. I did not want to do this, because - the threaded rod will eventually fail due to vibration - the threaded rod is metal and bends and may cause...

My largest piece of advice is to thoroughly inspect all flex lines and steel lines beforehand. NOW is the time to replace brake stuff in one shot. Work as cleanly as you can before you get to actually disconnecting/reconnecting hydraulics (use brake cleaner liberally to clean away gunk and...