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I think I could buy into that assessment. Although, the cost of that 2-part adhesive, the applicator, and the mixing tube tells me that it's just not worth it unless I was prepping up for a full-strip restoration. I think I'm going to temporarily use the RTV just to keep some excess water out...

I'm a big safety guy, so I thought this might be the best compromise I can come up with that's affordable. I plan to primarily use my HMMWV in 2-door configuration and have the appropriate 3-point seatbelts installed up front; however, on rarer occassion, I would like to remove the troop seats...

I'm guess one of the hoses coming up to the fan clutch solenoid. It seems pretty easy for one of those to split, pop off, and then whip around. If that's not it, chase the hoses that run under your alternator and see where one of those split. I think that you've just blown a hose, so as long...

I'm going to tune-in to this topic as well. My HMMWV has all of that same sealant chipped off, allowing water to pour in on top of my left foot. I was just going to fill the space with RTV, but if someone knows the right stuff, that's great!

Major components that are "integral" to the engine would just be the dipstick & tube, the vented power steering cap, and the vented CDR valve. There's of course also the driver's selector valve, transmission dipstick, water sensor cup (and bracket), air box dust cap and intake elbow, vent lines...

I'm really wanting to take mine down Meridian St to downtown Indianapolis once I'm up and running. It's our "historic home" road that connects downtown to the northside of the city, straight down the middle-it has the governor's mansion and everything on it. It was clearly built to be a very...

Huh...that does fill out all of that extra space nicely, doesn't it? Out of curiosity, why the upgrade from 200 to 400A? Do you have a massive new running load on your HMMWV that the 200A couldn't cover? About the cabling...the cables chosen for the 200A alternator are pretty close to the...

...and now, a break from a lot of crawling around. I thought for a bit about just where I wanted what wires to go and how to route around existing trouble spots (eg: the exhaust) and think I've got it figured out. I grabbed an A2 wiring schematic, some thin rope, my label maker, a tape...

For me, it actually would make sense. I have a 2 door and have the cargo barrier with the extension kit installed. It would be very tricky to get tools through that and access all of the necessary bolts to remove the barrier...it would be much faster to brute force through the soft top itself.

I watched nearly this same collision happen right in front of me back in January. Road surfaces were a bit wet and the at-fault driver came ripping down the interstate on-ramp and neglected to look for vehicles already on the interstate. They bumped the right-side of the truck with right of...

Odds and ends today. Replaced the rubber locking cleat thing for the engine cover, played with the ground harness some more (ran into some trouble with rivnuts spinning on the S3, causing the job to get hung up), drilled the large hole for the TCM cabling, and put my CDR tube on the oil fill...

I really wish I saved the issue, but one of the 90s PS Magazines had a center comic strip all about how failure to conduct proper PMCS will lead to mission failure, lost time, and damaged equipment-but it was all themed to be like Batman, with every bat-gadget failing spectacularly and his...

Oh man, what a busy weekend! Bluehummer really hooked me up with a factory new A2 rear propeller shaft for $160 and beltfed34 got an A2 front shaft to me (which ended up being trash, but I'm hoping he will work that out with me tomorrow). The good part about that front shaft was its length...

I'm pretty sure I can answer the why part for him: $10 of pipe vs $130 for an aluminum tube.

There's a notice in one of the PS Mags I read recently reminding units that Optima batteries are not authorized for use in any combat vehicle, but was ok for use in generators and other support equipment. That might be some CYA stuff, because I'm certainly tempted to do so myself...

Weak sauce, man! First time I went down on the ice, I was taking some short cuts through some fence opening and had to avoid a then-unseen plowed pile of snow, crashing in my efforts to avoid it. It was an uncomfortable high-side that I'm reminded of every time I put my jacket on and see the...

I'm really feeling lazy at the moment and the only right part I could find without getting out the manuals was on eBay, so I'll get the next-closest thing: https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/3310/Rear-Cable-and-Stud Each rear seat uses a cable assembly like what's in that link, except...

Yes, up until the A2 series. M998 => M1038, M1025=>M1026. They apparently still slapped the description on the data plate with W/W

Thinking about this further, I had a vaguely similar issue with my item. It wasn't "secret" by any means, but the physical location of my item seemed to be changing. I placed my bid on it with it being in Crane NSWC, won the item with it being somewhere in Indianapolis, and was authorized to...

Wheelspinner seems to have one that has both on his dataplate, actually. I also thought I recalled seeing a M925 with a W/E listing, but without the info in front of me, I have to just call it heresay, even though it was just an hour ago...