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Driving home yesterday and out of nowhere, dash lights, head lights, brake lights and turning signals go out...get home, and three fuses blown: 30 amp main lights fuse , 10 am stop and tail lights fuse and 5 am B.O. markers. Replaced them all, and now when I press the brake I get no brake light...

So, I have what i believe is still the original radiator...anyway to complete the thread, the issue was fixed by replacing the coolant module, which I got from hillbilly wizard...thanks so much to everyone on here

Thank you both...I'll check these things and see what happens and report back to this thread to complete it.

For a couple of weeks now, my low coolant light comes on, then goes off, comes back on, goes off and repeat each time I drive my M1008. Initially, the light was just on and the coolant was indeed low and below the sensor on the radiator. (The radiator has a slow leak and requires adding of...

In conclusion and so that others may benefit, this is what happened: after I replaced the glow plugs and the GP relay, (Napa ST85 but ST94 also works) but, because of a bad glow plug card (not known at this time yet) the glow plugs stayed on all of the time, this apparently draws about 100 amps...

with the help of everyone and in particular some crucial helpful phone calls with antenaclimber, the problem was narrowed down to the GP card under the dash, I’ve removed this card and can start the truck by short grounding the GP relay, now the alternator 1 charges battery 1 to 14.6V and it no...

put resistor back in and GP relay stopped working showing no voltage to GP when wait light is on and truck will not start, tested voltage at top of relay and its 25 volts so I suppose resistor is not "resisting" voltage from 24 to 12...so back to napa for a new relay and I still no idea as to...

sure enough like you suggested, voltmeter read 12-ish V at glow plug relay at connection going to GP's when it should not be...so I got and put in the ST85 relay and some but not all things improved....the GP's no longer are on after truck starts and the alternator 1 charges battery 1 to about...

Ok I will most definitely do this...so the big amp draw may be cancelling out the alt charge? this makes sense as this all started when I replaced glow plugs and that gp relay and removed the GP resistor...I was suspecting something to do with the fact that the way i bypassed the gp resistor was...

I will most I still haven't checked that fuseable link on account of time yet but I will, new issue: changed alternator to new one while old one was checked at shop and was checked out ok except voltage regulator needed rebuild and was done, new alternator (number 1) became super hot, too hot...

Awesome thanks just ordered it

Are you referring to the execiter plug? I not not sure what the pigtail is…but no I haven’t cleaned anything up so I will

yea its a recurring problem but this time sort of followed the glow plug stuff, thanks I'll re review those threads as they are helpful for sure. I may too use this opportunity to go ahead with the Roscommon 12V conversion number 2, which at least seems simplified for future troubleshooting

I feel like my alternator issues never end...currently I have an issue where alternator 1 is not correctly/fully charging battery number 1.... Alt 2 is charging battery 2 as battery 2 reads 14.6 while truck is running, however, interestingly, I cannot get a voltage reading at the excitor plug on...

Also, I did find the vacuum hose, it’s dry rotted and has a big crack, I tried a temp fix with duct tape but I believe air still leaking bc still that whistle

Ah that is good to know thanks! I’m a little more than “slightly more than finger tight” but nothing crazy and used a dab of anti seize this time

Yea it was a decent amount of smoke that made me uncomfortable, no mud and no water… a little dust and the system had been not altogether working properly for a couple months (bad relay) so it may havecollected some dust but I thought I gave enough time to burn that little bit of dust...

So is the vacuum line a rubber hose or a hard line? I didn’t think about the whistling being a good sign! Appreciate your help

Ok I’ll have to look for that…I was in that area, removed that resistor so as to bypass it because it kept smoking …but that is where a distributor would be

I changed all eight glow plugs and the glow plug relay today to get m1008 starting correctly and now it does, however, afterwards while driving I noticed a slight but unquestionably noticeable whistling noise that is proportional to RPM’s (ie higher RPMs = louder whistling and vise versa; almost...