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No Military "PUBS" ever called it a "GAMMA" Goat, let alone those articles found on the infamous internet.
It was named after the inventor and designer of the joint between the tractor and trailer, Roger Gamaunt and it's off road capabilities.
I'd love to replace my Detroit with a 350 but...
A lot of what your finding is not algae, but bacteria. Get a good diesel anti-bacteria treatment and kill it all. Other wise it will be back. It's alive in every little corner and behind the baffle that you can't reach behind.
Here are a couple of pictures of the torus housings and the bearing surface on the diff. As you can see, there is nothing but steel on steel. If they are rusted there will be no movement. ( Greased or not)
One of the pictures shows were the missing shim goes. Many of the Goats that had...
Yes, Jack it up till the rear tractor wheels clear the ground. Make sure the jack is not on the diff or anything touching the diff. You should be able to rock the diff, if not, disassemble the shocks and try it. There should be movement with out removing the shocks but it is a tough move. If no...
The BIG question, after greasing the tourus bearings were you able to role the diff in either direction. Just because they are greased doesn't mean it will move. They were often reassembled with out the proper shims which locked movement when the tourus housings were tightened.
There is nothing under that "Hatch" It's just a void. Would make a nice tool storage but is not sealed from the bilge. Any water or oil goes in there freely.
One thing I've not seen mentioned here. These coils come in 12 or 24 volt. It's normally stamped in the side or bottom. This would explain the diff in resistance across the leads of the coil. I have both and they look exactly the same except for the stamping. I burned up several 12v coils...
Franz,
I do not..
The easy way is to take an old one to your truck or aoto parts outlet and match it.
Looking for the original part number is tough here so it may be even tougher in Germany.
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