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The truck I had posted about previously thinking it has a bent flex plate or something else like that, has a seized motor. Not sure why, but it won't turn at all, even with a big pry bar on the flex plate teeth and glow plugs removed. I found a running CUCV motor for $900, my question is how...

I brought it down to a shop, and their finding is that the motor is shot. the crank is completely seized. Could not get any movement at all. So with that being so, where is a good place to find a replacement motor??

I havn't been unable to work on the truck since my last post, however I've been given some advice that it may not be the plate at all, but rather a spun bearing. which makes sense as the truck started squealing mid-drive and stalled out. It may be that the broken starter bolt was coincidental...

I got the broken starter bolt end cleanly out of the block easy enough with a left-twist drillbit. One thing I'm wondering about now, is how do I rotate the engine and flex plate to unbolt it from the torque converter if it's bent and hitting the side of the bell housing? I tried putting a...

Thanks for all your help! I have never worked on a transmission before so I'm new to this. . I have a few questions... 1) I have removed the starter, but what do you mean by the heat shield? 2) Removing the dipstick tube... does it just pull out or twist out? 3) Besides those 4 bolts, is...

How do you do that? I've seen some clips on Youtube where they put a jack under the transmission, put some all-thread long bolts through the mounting holes, drop the drive shaft, and slide it back. What's your procedure?

I tried searching for the "helicoil starter mount" thread and can't find it... do you have a link? You're right I don't want to destroy my engine block by messing that up...

Took the bell housing cover off to see why the engine won't crank over... Is it even possible that the flywheel ring gear is hitting the housing?? It looks like it's almost, or is, touching. Can't even get a knife between them. The other side is tight but absolutely has more clearance.

Thanks, I definitely plan to do that. Hopefully the snapped bolt remnants can be extracted without too much trouble. Is there a particular replacement bolt type I should use? I did read the TM about starter removal and replacement, does not seem too difficult. I'm just wondering why the...

I've got a question and I thought I'd get some suggestions before I start tearing things apart. The other day I went out to my 84 M1008 and noticed a bolt on the ground, it was sheared off through the threads. It came out of the the starter (looks like one of two that hold it on), which I...

I replaced my floorboards, and one rocker panel. Never worked with sheet metal before, nor welded much. Biggest problem was the rust extended beyond where the panels covered, so I had to put in extra patches.

I ended using a hammer and screwdriver to tap it in (too tight to do by hand) with a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker. I also put a little tack weld on it to make sure. I ended up using both the Permatex and the Felpro gasket as the autozone staff guy recommended. Also I...

yes, you're right, thanks. I had planned to use RTV but I picked up the gasket and that back seal was in the box. Probably easier than trying to RTV it anyway, hope it seals as well. Those bolts just plain steel?? They are not stainless but mine were less rusty than I would expect. One more...

So today I decided after lurking on here for a while to dive in and replace my rear main seal (1984 M1008) along with oil pump, pickup, and new pan after noticing the nasty puddle it was leaving everywhere. I've only got the pan off so far, but reading the manuals it clearly shows a...