Oil pan back seal referenced in the TM?

[14ghz]

So today I decided after lurking on here for a while to dive in and replace my rear main seal (1984 M100 along with oil pump, pickup, and new pan after noticing the nasty puddle it was leaving everywhere.

I've only got the pan off so far, but reading the manuals it clearly shows a half-collar-like seal or gasket that goes on the back side of the oil pan where it mates near the bell housing. None of the FAQs mention it, and when I was ordering parts I never saw it listed. The manual says "Remove engine oil pan (5) and engine oil pan seal (10). Remove and discard engine oil pan gasket if present. Discard engine oil pan seal." In the drawing, #10 is that half-collar looking gasket.


I stopped working on it before I determine if there was a seal that was left stuck on the engine.

What's up with this seal? Its not listed under any of the stores I looked for for the 6.2L diesel.


PS- on a side note, one of the oil pan bolts flew out and disappeared (one of the two holding the trans cooler lines on the driver-front side of the oil pan). Does anyone know the size/specs on those bolts so I can pick one up before getting back into it?

 

[cucvrus]

I think you are referring to the part of the oil pan gasket that remains on the rear bearing cap. That is stuck up there on the rear bearing cap I am sure of that. And as far as the bolts for the oil pan they are just M6 X 1.0 bolts about 19m/m 3/4" long. The reason they don't list the rear oil pan seal/gasket separate is because it comes with the oil pan gasket. I am about to dive into a major project myself on my 6.2 CUCV M1009. I need head gaskets and a rear main seal. I have been driving it for 18 years and this is the first major maintenance I have had to do to it. You can pick up an pan pan bolt at any hardware store. M6 x 1.0 thread pitch X 19mm/3/4" length. I hope that helps you out. Good luck on the project and keep us posted. Ask if you need help. That is what the hobby is about helping each other out. Welcome on board.

 

[14ghz]

yes, you're right, thanks. I had planned to use RTV but I picked up the gasket and that back seal was in the box. Probably easier than trying to RTV it anyway, hope it seals as well. Those bolts just plain steel?? They are not stainless but mine were less rusty than I would expect.

One more thing, I have not looked too hard at it yet but how does the new oil screen/pickup attach to the new oil pump?
I'm learning, never done anything this in-depth on a vehicle, maybe an IP seal overhaul on my VW TDI but I think this is harder!

 

[cucvrus]

At the risk of getting beat up here. I have replaced several rear main seals and have never replaced the oil pump. My theory is "If in ain't broke don't fix it" and I am a tight budget guy. i am usually spending other peoples money. And I try my best to save where I can. Not changing the oil pump has ever created any adverse conditions that I am aware of. And if it did I would have know and heard about it. The bolts on the oil pan are standard steel. No stainless. Good Luck with your project. I hope I was helpful.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

One more thing, I have not looked too hard at it yet but how does the new oil screen/pickup attach to the new oil pump?

I haven't been into my engine (yet), so I don't know for sure, but on other vehicles I've had, some are just a friction fit (twist and pull to remove) and some have a couple of bolts. If you don't see bolts, try the twist and pull method.

 

[14ghz]

I ended using a hammer and screwdriver to tap it in (too tight to do by hand) with a thin layer of Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker. I also put a little tack weld on it to make sure.

I ended up using both the Permatex and the Felpro gasket as the autozone staff guy recommended. Also I noticed my new rear main seal "shaved" a tiny little amount of material off the edge furthest away from the shaft. I read on here that other people have had that happen too. I also could not get it the full amount in to the recommended .5" overhang, so I left it out about 2" and put the other half in further to meet. Seems to me that should be fine, its just that they don't want the seal halves to be where the metal halves come together.

One last thing however. I replaced my oil pan, since it was almost rusted though. What I don't have is the dipstick tube seal where it enters the pan. I coated the inside of it with Ultra Black and also put a bead around the lip. I don't know if hat will be good enough.

Where can I get a dipstick tube seal? I looked online for it but didn't find one.

Thanks for your help! I'm really learning a lot about engines, LOL.

 

[cucvrus]

I just use Permatex. The Right Stuff as the seal. Has not failed me yet.