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They sell these for $40 at TSC. Goldenrod, Water-Block Fuel Filter 496 With Water Absorbing Goldenrod, Water-Block Fuel Filter 496 With Water Absorbing - 0189529 | Tractor Supply Company These are the filters that hold approx 1 cup of water before they 'slow down' the flow of fuel. "Removes...

I'm thinking the best way to get rid of the water it to simply filter it through a media that absorbs water more readily than oil.. and the answer is pretty odd. PAPER. Paper will NOT disintegrate in oil yet will absorb water more readily than oil. Although the Frantz bypass filters are...

Problems are: You need a non-collapsible hose and they are generally thick and expensive. You need a pump that is much more complicated than a 'pressure pump' Viscosity will be a bigger factor. Most vacuum pumps don't like 'stuff' going through them. Pulling a 1 bar vacuum is more pressure on...

Till you blow 2 gallons of oil sky high with compressed air. My garage floor, walls a ceiling and face are worth more than the two nipples and a check valve it would take to fix the problem. A check valve is a few bucks. And pushing sludge through the filters is just going to cost you a $15...

Is there a link to the specs that show this? I can find them for sale for $15, but nothing about what happens when they are full/at capacity.

There are some things you need to do to really make this specific tank setup worth while. First, I would add ball valves with drains just after the tank on the bottom but before the filters. That way you can drain oil in the lines before you have to remove the filters and avoid spilling oil...

No matter how low the price its gonna be at least $2-3k to haul it any distance. July 1 is still a ways off.. post it around and see if he will part it out.

Pulling the axle in/out risks tearing the inner oil seals lip, as well as introducing dirt. Who here has a torque wrench rated for the proper torquing of the nuts? I think that the Army decided what most of us have.. the zipper boot is a good trade off of ease of replacement vs longevity...

Here are pics of what is broke and the alternator. I did not see any data plates. It looks to be aluminum.. I can only imagine what an hour of TiG work would cost... I see that epoxy putty at NAPA all the time... for $10 I might just try that and drill tap the hole again. I see new alts...

I completely understand some people have the idea that 'if it ain't broke, fix it anyway' but its bad advice to pass along. There is nothing in the knuckle that will 'almost be broke'. Seals leak, or they don't. CV joints are bad, or they are not. If throwing $50-100 at a perfectly working...

I has to tighten the alternator belts (would squeal at start up) and the tension bolt snapped the ear. The casting had a flaw (large void) so now the alternator is held in place by half a bolt hole. I would like to to try and find just the new front casting (I don't have my parts manual on...

My replaced boot has been on 3 weeks and about 250 miles of driving. Has not exploded nor torn. Its the boot with the 'large zipper' that is supposed to be the worst of the two. Both boots that were on it were the smaller zipper. DId it myself (no need for any additional help) and other than...

For MIG welding as long as you have a good ground you should be OK. Cars build up a wicked static charge from driving so its not like there isn't electrical current already zipping around all that metal.

A lot of reenactors I know are passing. The event holder doesn't care if its WWII.. there are plenty of CJ2s and M100 trailers running around. Reading is about the MONEY... its a Fund Raiser for the Museum.... so anything can and does go. Some participants are very high quality... other not...

Every State is different. But if you are legal in your state, then you are legal in the other 49. Sure LEO/DOT can cite you, but they may or may not have the mental faculties (or believe your story) so they cite you. Its up to the Judge to interpret the case and rule on it. If the weigh...

I just replaced a front boot and you don't need any seals unless you are replacing a 'solid' boot.. that requires removal of the wheel and knuckle. I don't really buy the 'chance to look over the works' as a valid reason to tear off the knuckle. Unless you have other issues don't go ripping...

If you look closely the picture showing the side profile has been reversed.. most likely when they were scanned to digital from a negative. The drivers side is on the left, and the jeep is point to the right. That is 180 out.. the jeep SHOULD be pointing to the LEFT. Also, gramps must have...

Your 'private information' is in 100 files in 100 offices and probably already sold on the black hat market three times already. I know mine has been... twice. From much more 'reputable' firms than GL. Fill out another form, watch it go through and don't have an aneurysm if things are not as...

My 1st and only GL purchase hit all kinds of speed bumps... I just knew to 'walk' the process through and keep an eye out for shenanigans. You know how GL can be... so don't get excited when it bites you. So you have to submit another EUC... wow... that's what, 10 boxes on a PDF to fill...

Offer some cash it you want them to beat down your door. All that time begging at every garage and fuel to get there and back? No thanks. I posted oil wanted for 3 days on CL and got 5 good leads... one with a continuous supply (more than I could ever need). My limit is $0.50/gal... but I...