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As previously posted all the part numbers for the set are listed in the -24 TM. In the TM you can locate the OP switch and its "find number " 15 in the image below. Scroll down and locate find number 15 in the parts list. There is a typo in the TM. It should say 15, not 5 in the second column...

14 PSI Normally Open 1/8" NPT

Check out his thread... Filler coupler

I have a running lists of notes like that for the MEP-80x, MEP-831 and now the MEP-10xx sets. A compilation of info from members posts where they found commercial replacements that work.

I'd suggest disconnecting the GFCIs output to the outlet and see if the tripping stops. If it does the outlet may be bad. If it still trips then I'd say the GFCI is toast.

The GFCI in one of my sets is flakey. It doesn't trip, but much of the time after starting I need to "flick" the reset button to get power to the outlet. Does yours trip and pop out?

I suspect it's about 3.6 KHz but don't know for sure.

For starters I'd suggest the following. 1) If the set has the Fuse Mod check to be sure the fuse is installed and that it's good. 1) Measure the AC Voltage at the outlet while the set is running. What's the AC Voltage? 2) Measure the AC Voltage at the outlet while the set is running and...

Could someone measure the AC Frequency of the signal from the MPU to the Electronic Governor Controller on their 804 while it's running? It can be measured at the electronic Governor Controller across terminals 16 & 17. Many thanks!

You have the Fuse Mod which is good. You have the original factory AC Voltage Regulator.

Excellent pics. They certainly help :)

I've been actively working on this to provide the MEP community a solution for the hard to find Float Switches and Fuel Level senders. Today I bench tested a breadboard version and it worked well. :) Ording some PCB's Monday to build a few prototypes and fully test in my 802A. Assuming the...

The OP sensor is a 3 wire sensor. The DCS provides it 5 VDC and ground to power it. It's ratio metric output varies from 0.5 VDC at 0 PSI to 4.5 VDC at 100 PSI. Maybe put a meter on its output terminal C and monitor its output voltage to see if it's incorrect?

Was the -4 reading on the DCS after the engine stopped?

You should have good continuity, zero-ish ohms, between all the points in my diagram. If you don't then you need to dig into the wiring path between the two points.

M8 terminal 1 to J6-7 is wire 162A. P6-7 to S8-44 is wire 162B. If you are measuring 120 ohms, then you may have a bad splice or poor connection between the contacts J6-7 and P6-7 ..............Wire 162A.........................................Wire 162B...

S8 is similar to S6 on how the terminals are arranged. All odd numberer terminals on one side and evens on the other. Here is a shot of some of S8's odd terminals.

To check the resistance of any of those resistors you need to disconnect the wire(s) from one end of the resistor first. S6 "odd" Terminals S6 "even" terminals

I attached some display pics for comparison to yours. Just happened to run it today for testing a DCS. (Ignore the 114 V AC in the first pic. I hadn't adjusted the voltage regulator yet) My 1030 with ~ 50% load on it after running a minute or two. Coolant temp 123F with 60 PSI Oil Pressure...

You'd check the current at M8 using your clamp on ammeter. The right meter in your pic. Clamp it around ONE of the two wires going to M8. It doesn't matter which one. Like this.. Set the meter to 40 AMP AC setting Zero the meter is necessary. Be sure the generators AM-VM switch is in the 3...