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Most any of them will require some modification for mounting. But making a bracket to fit the cab mouting points is pretty simple (I used the OEM sliding base from the truck and added a bracket to mount the seat).
There are a lot of options. Look to minivans, etc.
I went with Pacifica rear...
The way I installed mine was to add a "Y" cable that created two ports. One I attached into the OEM hole and it acts as my diagnostic port. The second I clipped the 24v wire and sealed it, then I ran a 12v wire from a fuse panel and attached it to the port.
The Bluefire lives permanently...
Not diagnostic-related, but still on topic:
I use CAT ET on my laptop with the DPA4+ for diagnostics.
But I also like to see what's happening when the truck is in operation. So I added a BlueFire and a $50 tablet. The BlueFire taps into the same J1939 port and displays the data via a...
Keep in mid that you don't have to break the bank for something that likely won't see a ton of use.
I ended up purchasing a used DPA4+ direct form Dearborn for $150 off eBay.
I then screwed around with a half dozen cables (that clearly were not wired correctly) and finally just purchased an...
Yep, they were a VW kit car from Meyers (Meyers Manx fame). It was a little short range dune hopper you towed to the beach. One person could extend the tow bar and lift the car onto the hitch. The tow bar telescoped up and into the main center tube that led up to the a-pillar (if you can call...
Yeah, but I don't have any cranes.
And I need to rebuild my cab latch. I've had the kit for ages, but I'm at a loss for how to do it's safely. There's just not enough room in there between the box and cab with the spare down for me to work. And since Chucky's incident, I've been putting off...
I wonder how they crack open the hydraulic system for work w/o raising the cab, though.
The M1078 isn't bad if you're reaching over from the bed. But my M1079 has no room to really work on the pump or latch for a rebuild. Even with the spare down it's a job for a much smaller and younger...
Here's a pic of how my cars were done. You can see the dash connector with the cord running to the wheel and the mic switch.
The spiral cord hangs neatly out of the way, wraps and unwraps as the wheel is turned. The steering wheel is removable, hence the removable connector on the dash. The...
The attachment in the OP shows how to adapt the switch(es). It's pretty simple. Dave's image on top of page 2 shows the harness side.
Like most any cruise control, you need an on/off (toggle) and a set/resume (momentary). It's literally $10 worth of switches from Amazon.
Two switches is...
Interesting..
I like the idea. I've been eyeballing bi-facial panels after seeing some reviews. My goal is to free up the roof space and retain the "observation deck" aspect. Bonus for now having a small perimeter fence around the top deck. But I'd not seen the "why" vertical panels do better.
Interesting.
Yeah, my A1R always feels like I have to stand on the brake pedal to hold. It's a LOT of force applied at a stoplight. Almost uncomfortably stiff.
Bookmarked
I'd need to add a skid plate under those filters.
Because I scrape stuff with my truck and those look important to keeping it running.
Not knocking the relocate, though. I've seen some crazy relocation of the hydraulics and air filters.
:)
The only way to know for sure would be to check the RB yards in the CA.
But I would imagine so, at least at some point in time.
There are still trucks coming out of Yermo on occasion. And they often appear in spurts.
I was just using the N1307 as an example (I just picked a random 24v alt). Of course someone doing such a swap would need to do a good deal of research. And mods would be expected.
The point was that it's far cheaper to us a 24v + a step down due to the insanely high price of the dual voltage...
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