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I dont like the push button ones. Havent had one burn up on me but the manual style is easy to get into the truck in pitch black and turn it on by feel.

Try taking a car jumper cable and jumping the 12v between both trucks at the same time as you have the nato cable on it.

Add a big ground wire from the batts negative to the main frame rail. And clean and tighten your battery terminals. Check the polarity box make sure all are tight. They are live so be careful or disconnect the batts.

So here is how I fixed my issue of nothing wanting to move but building lots of pressure. Initially I believe it was just the orifices behind the cab tilt and spare tire up down valves. I removed each valve and cleaned each orifice they were both visibly dirty. Gave the system some flush to get...

The filters in the box are under hex caps on top of the box. There are some check valves on the back and left side of the box. You can see them in the hyd diagram. Im not sure if they dont allow flow until a certain pressure or what. The orifices you can unscrew the up down valve and it comes...

I keep this handy. There are filters in the control box and one in the hand pump but you have to take it apart to get to it. The ones in the control box are under hex caps on top the caps come off and the filters unscrew with a size larger hex. There are orifices behind each of the 3 top...

On the bottom of the dryer? Then the expello valve is stuck open. Take the little plastic elbow off and push the valve closed. And replace the dryer.

Go to the air dryer to the right of the batt box see if air is leaking out the bottom of the dryer.

Got this one here. Good used second gen 400 shipped. Set to higher pressure and overspeeds but sometimes the older trucks wont pressurize as high as the setting. I can set the pressures to whatever you want.

What year is your truck? First gen can use any controller. 3126 a1 needs a second gen controller and c7 trucks require a 3rd gen black one.

I have replacement controllers

Are you puffing hyd fluid out the breather? Is the pump cycling? It’s usually the u cup seal is worn out.

There are some variations some have a metal housing some are plastic but they are all basically the same and use the same replacement seals. There is a heavy lift kit it upgrades the cab lift cylinder and has reinforcement brackets. On the armored trucks they went to an electric pump.

I have new pdps. Not cheap though. It’s soldered on both sides. I have heard of them being resoldered.

The pcb power panels can develop bad solder joints. I have pulled relay sockets right out of the boards.

No on the crane is a control box left side it has an on off switch. If you leave that switch on it will drain your batts.

If your crane control box switch is left on it will kill the batts fast.

Alot of the first gen tm schematics will apply to a 3126 truck. What are you trying to troubleshoot?

There are 2 types of control pushers. Unscrew it see if there is a small cartridge behind it. The cartridges go bad and when you press the button air will just come out a vent on the back of the hyd box.

Theres a couple different styles of the pan. Its hard to tell from your pics. The pigtail will separate and come off. On the trans you can see the bracket where the cab to trans cable meets you can disconnect that, remove pigtail connector and then you can drop the pan down and have more room to...