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My diagram didn't show pin K or R, (strange) Pin R reads 24volts engine running and S1 in the "OFF" position

For some reason my diagnostic port document doesn't have pin K

Pin N reads 0 volts engine running and S1 in the "OFF" position Pin K reads 24volts engine running and S1 in the "OFF" position Used pin B as ground

Well I looked at the relay when starting the unit, the crank disconnect and flash relay activate. When I disconnect the fuel solenoid to shut the unit off the crank disconnect open when the motor comes to a full stop. That was the only relay I could see operating. I also checked the 137n wire...

On GP I had an amount that I would pay and if it went over that I would wait till the next week, took me 6 months before I got what I wanted. If you can't go look at the unit, scrutinize the pictures and videos well, you'd be surprised at what you can tell about the unit. Many people say not to...

Thanks DieselAddict, I have the schematics blown up and marked to make them easier to locate components, I had to blow up the diagnostic port pic today so I can check voltages through that connector. Doesn't look that will help my problem though!

Tried another experiment today, I pulled the wire 137N from the master switch S-1 pin 3, it did not shut off the engine. I'll try pin 7 tomarrow

Try another popular site it has many more pictures and usually 2 videos that may show if the unit is putting out power, also an Ironclad warranty. Just saying!

Doing some more testing and the voltage at the lugs is off. Still trying to trace back the wiring so far everything seems to be correct, does one of the relays lose power from the S1 switch and that's what releases the fuel solenoid?

Very interesting thing happened today, I purchased a kill-a-watt meter today and plugged it into the convenience receptacle and the voltage meter show 240 volts the kill-a-watt meter show 120 volts 60hz. Tried to shut the engine off and no luck. I pulled the fuel solenoid connector to shut the...

Just tried that 2 times to be sure, had no fault lights come on!

I also notice when the engine is running the hertz gauge works but the volts do not, when I hold the master switch to start and hold it for a few seconds the volt gauge shows voltage but when I release it to run it stops, hz is still at 60

The wire on the starter that I removed is 113 B, I take that off so the engine won't start, I take it off so I can check the circuits. When I go to the master switch and turn it to prime run the fuel pump start some relays click, when I turn it to start the fuel solenoid moves back just as it...

Did some more checking today, the S-1 master switch is wired correctly, I checked all the wiring numbers and pins for the switch. Checked the wiring diagram from the fuel solenoid to both fuel pumps and to the relay, that all was right. Checked the 4 K relays they seem to be switching correctly...

I checked out the switch and it has some connections that have 2 connections for the same number pin (3), this unit does not have the blue plastic switch, my other 803 has the plastic blue switch. I'll try to compare the wires on that switch

Still having same issue this 803 it won't shut off by the master switch. Here is what I have done so far! Printed large schematics so I can see them Located a lot of the components on the schematics and labeled them Labeled some of the components on the unit that were not labeled so I could...

Did some more checking today, The CR-5 diode is there and is mounted per the TM. I removed it and checked the current flow, it flows one way and not the other. While I was checking diodes I checked the diodes behind the flip up panel, I didn't take those off but they did test ok. I guess I...

I really hate to sound dumb but I'm learning, where in the crap is TB-4 located. As I find this stuff I'm writing it down for next time! Thanks

I'll check the CR5 diode, I see what you mean about the wiring numbers. On the starter solenoid I removed just the white wire on the bottom of the starter solenoid, I didn't remove the battery cables or the white wire on top of the solenoid.

I don't even know which wire to start with, plus they are all bundled so tight together I can't even read the numbers on the wires