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I would love to have a PulseTech 24v solar but at 400 plus dollars! Give me a break! Is there a surplus site for these somewhere? I know the military used them.

The test button on the ground fault circuit interrupter on the front of the panel does not trip when I hit test so the reset button doesn't do anything. I was looking inside behind the switch and there is a small button there that does not move. Did some more testing this am, I rechecked the...

I checked that breaker switch out but I can't get it to reset or even get it to move. Not sure if it is stuck or if it is able to reset if it trips

Ok, got the hose for the fuel line return, it's amazing how the new hose works so much better. Guess what no more leaks!! Thanks for everyone's help

Got a chance to check the dead crank switch, flipped it to the middle position and it did not shut down the motor. with the engine off it will crank the motor. I also noticed that pushing the ground fault interrupt test button does nothing. I took the top lid off to look behind the wall, I...

That a good idea about the dead crank switch to the center position, I'll try that tomorrow!

I was able to move the relays around this morning and I could see them working, so I don't think the relays are the problem. I agree I need to fix the shut down problem first, I got the colored wiring diagram today so I'm going to enlarge it and keep it readily available. I noticed that when I...

Thanks Guy Fang, I don't have much electrical experience but I can follow directions. This A.M I changed the switch with a known good one, no change. I will inspect the other relays. Not to sound dumb but I can't find the SS of the manuals section for the color schematic, maybe I don't have that...

Got a chance to do some more testing before it started raining. Here's what I found on the master switch S-1, pins 2,4,6,and 8 have 24 volts constant. When I switch to pre-heat pin 1 has 24 volts, in prime and run aux fuel pins 3 and 5 have 24 volts. In the prime and run position pin 3 has 24...

I figure out that not all TM files are the same, I found another one that printed fine. Going to start checking those things out this week, thanks for the help. I'll post what I find.

Found the schematics on the TM but they will not print full size and I can't view them full size. I'm going to have to label some of these things so I can remember what they are!

I looked through all the TM's last night that I had and don't see any wiring diagrams for this unit. I did see a reference to the relay but that's it. What TM show the wiring schematics?

Ok, I did my first post to youtube, testing a little more and I found if I unplug the emergency shutoff solenoid it will stop the motor. https://youtu.be/ikyRlh48wA4

Ok DieselAddict, I think the emergency stop was in, won't do that again! I can't get the video to upload, may be too big. The unit runs and starts fine but it will not shut down with the front panel switch or the emergency stop switch. I have tried to manually move the lever on the solenoid and...

Sorry had to finish some mowing, the unit is not doing anything now, but the dead crank switch does work and the batteries are hot. I can't even get the green panel lights to come on which where working until I had to kill the engine. Is there a switch that's not working?

I went to get a video of the solenoid cut off and the lever is fully forward. I tried to start the unit with the front panel to see if it is working and now there is no power to the switch in any position and no power to the panel lights. It does dead crank, strange it worked before!

I'm new to diesel generators but I have been reading a lot here. I acquired an 803 and started checking it out. I saw this unit running and putting out power and being used several months ago. Owner said it just quit putting out power and he was not going to mess with it. Here is what I have...

Ok going to get the Continental N203535-5 fuel hose but do I need to replace the tees? If so what do I need and where are they available?

For some reason someone replaced part of the small braided fuel line from the tank to the engine. it's part braided and part rubber hose and the replaced part is a larger size with a plastic tee. the tee is capped but the other end of the does not fit well into the braided hose. So the question...

Is there a reason the return fuel lines have to be hose? What if they were hard piped in converting to AN or similar fittings? Seams like that would be just one less point of failure.